Most around here, including me, will try to encourage people to avoid "scotts" grass seed mixes. They are far from being good by any means. I was trying to find the % of the Sun & Shade you quoted and all I could find is this.. "Scotts Select Turf "Sun and Shade" (50% Boreal creeping red fescue, 35% Ragnar II perennial ryegrass, 15% Alene Kentucky bluegrass). Boreal is a fancy name for common creeping red fescue. Although it is adapted to shady growing conditions, Boral has none of the bred-in advantages of improved fine fescue varieties. Ragnar II, like all perennial ryegrasses, has no shade tolerance. Alene is a common type bluegrass that ranks at the bottom of the NTEP trials." A further explanation of my statement above. 6-8 hours of sun is the standard for "Full sun", against the misconception of full sun truly being sun all day long. You could really use any of the three cool season grasses and do not need the fine fescues. However, like I said before, any of the newer varieties are not going to visually blend well if you have an old wide blade fescue. ..I also didn't mention the different growing rates if you are to put a KBG or RYE on the fescue. A few days after cutting, it will look uneven. Ultimately the best thing to do would be to kill of the whole thing and start over (assuming you do have an old course tall fescue), but if your really against that, I'd say to overseed it with a turf type fescue. Go to a local garden center for better seed.

Okay, hold on. I had to check out this phenom grass seed. What. A. SCAM. Let's look at what's in it: TEN PERCENT KY BLUEGRASS. They measure those percentages by weight, not the number of seeds. Bluegrass seeds are WAY tinier than fescue seeds, so your TTTF mix will actually turn out to be, what? Thirty or forty percent bluegrass? TEN PERCENT RYEGRASS. The most disease prone of all the cool-season grasses, added to commercial mixes because it germinates very fast and makes people feel happy. SIXTY PERCENT of two types of fescue. they don't say what the remaining 20% is. So your 10% ryegrass will germinate very quickly -- yayy! Then your 60% fescue will come in. Finally, if there is any room left or any sunlight available to the soil; surface, your 10% bluegrass will germinate. Or not. There might already be too much competition. In any case, your bluegrass in that mix will never produce roots that go down that deep. Never ever ever.

Also in Chesterfield - Those pics you posted are exactly what my lawn looked like last year. I too have lawn service (VA Green) and spend TONS of time and effort. So when it was all perfect one minute then that, i was upset. Turned out to be fungal. Virginia Green upsold me on the "Estate" package that treats fungus. Two weeks later, the brown areas were gone and it was back to perfect. Now this year since i have that higher package, I dont have to worry about it coming back. And with 2 acres of just grass ... It looks great! The point of this post was to recommend VA Green over True Green which i've seen terrible things from here. Also to sucker you in to subscribing to their fungal package like me so I'm not the only one ha. The below pic was covered in brown last summer, just everywhere. Now its this after just 2 fungal treatments.

Any brand is fine, really, just look for something with 0 noxious weed seeds and a very low number/percentage of other weed and crop seeds (you usually won't find 0 other weed/crop seeds, but it does get pretty close in good brands). Pennington and the like tends to be better than Scotts', but also a bit pricier. So although the bang is better, the buck is also higher. Specialty fescues are going to bang much higher, and the buck is also going to be far higher. It just depends on where your aim is. Since you're looking for a dark fescue as per your previous message, I'd do some research. You may actually want to go specialty and spend a bit more for a nicer, darker lawn. Ultimately, that was my decision; I went with a spendy seed that resulted, in the end run, with me doing practically no work years later--I chose incredibly dark green Kentucky bluegrass that repairs itself. Fescue won't do that, though, and will require some reseeding occasionally even with perfect treatment and well-balanced soil. Which is the next point. For a good seed and a good lawn, get a soil test. I tend to recommend Logan Labs. Spend the summer before reseeding fixing the soil and getting it correct--good soils grow good lawns. Bad soils won't grow dark green, healthy lawns. Period. And if you go with a darker grass, nuke the K-31 in July with RoundUp for an August reseeding. You won't like it mixing with the new, dark, and much finer fescue. K-31 is, in a word, trash. Any good, dark fescue is also going to be much finer-bladed and the old stuff will stand out like a sore thumb.