It's a good report. You should understand that it's probably standard for your neighborhood, and not standard for my neighborhood, but all of my neighborhood shares the same general soil characteristics, as does yours, but they are different. 1. You built in a hayfield. That means the bacteria, the mychorrizal fungus, the tiny critters, that live on the most common plant in the area, while taking over, have not yet successfully transitioned from 'field' to 'lawn', but they're working on it. I'm tempted, at first, to just leave it, but you might get ahold of a company like Bio-Vam, and order up a dose of mychorrizal fungus,and spray it on your lawn. It really did help me out, a few years back. Reach me here, if you decide to do this, I can give you a few tips. 2. The lawn does not have enough organic matter, which surprises me, given that you have 2 acres. I'm assuming you leave the lawn clippings on the lawn. Are you mowing high? You should. Mowing at 3.5 to 4 inches will really help that lawn keep organic matter. I had a pal talk to me, two acres, and it turned out he was mowing at one inch, literally, and it looked like a pool table, with an unshaven stubble: he will never have a lawn. Mow high. 3. Ignore the potash. It's not really a deficiency, and will change, over the next five years. Keep the report, as we're going to compare 'next year's' report to this one. 4. Don't add fert that has any, or not much, phosphorus. For TODAY, not three weeks from now, if you can add a half-dose of urea, I would. Keep this in mind: if you are un-disciplined, or not mechanical, or somehow overwhelmed by this job, just pass on the job: no offense taken. If a normal application of fertilizer would be a 6 on your tow-behind spreader, I'd like you to get some urea, and spread it around, almost immediately, using a setting of 3. You can't do a full dose, you have to do a half dose. A full dose, with summer almost upon us, would burn the lawn, and we don't want that. But a half dose would be perfect. Urea is something like 30-0-0, or 45-0-0, and it's all nitrogen, no phosphorus, no potash. But it has to be a light dose. Lime: Is best put down over several small applications, spread out by at least three weeks, rather than one big boomba application. You always, always, want pelletized. It flows, just like fertilizer, through your tow behind rotary spreader. For two acres, go over to H/D or Lowes, and get six bags, three for each acre. Throw it on the lawn. Eight to twelve bags per acre would be mathmatically correct, and you are not remotely interested. Solve that small problem one small step at a time. By the way, we're going to do another application, either in late fall, or early spring. Let me say this: you are at that wonderful stage, at the beginning, where almost everything you do will be correct, will show an immediate improvement, and even better, will improve MORE after that. Take this stuff in slow, rather than big, stages or applications. Give the lawn time to be a lawn. Mow tall, rather than short. You probably want a tow-behind boom sprayer (I LOVE mine) for a few hundred, to put down weed killer or liquid fert. Shop around, and reach me here if you're not finding what you need. Do not add phosphorus, or add darn little. Ignore the potash, it's fine. Let us know, here, what you're doing. You're gonna love this job.

Most turf grasses in the PNW will be blends of various cool weather grass seeds, however sod farms seem to prefer monocultures and often go with a single type. Because many of these grasses look virtually indistinguishable from each other, best to go back to the source and ask where you purchased the sod. Because our cool season grasses want to go dormant in summer, I tend to recommend fall as the best time to overseed or do much remedial lawn care. What you can do now is to aerate the soil, using a plug or core aerator. Aerating is one of the best things you can do for a lawn or the ideal first step in lawn care prep. After aerating, spread a thin layer of compost, just a half inch or so. Water as necessary but not too frequently and deeply when you do. In my Puget Sound climate, once every week to 10 days is usually sufficient through summer provided the water penetrates down 6-8 inches. Weed manually as required. Then in fall you can overseed. Again, cover with a thin layer of compost (better than peat or topsoil) and keep moist until full germination, usually about 10-14 days. Mow when the new grass is at least 2.5 inches tall. And you can still fertilize before winter. If you overseed in September, you should be able to fertilize in mid to late October. Of any time of year, the fall fertilizing is the most beneficial in our region. And opt for an organic product if you can.

Exactly right. You can encourage St Aug to take over by mowing at the highest setting and skipping a week or two now and then. Water deeply every week in the summer. It will spread best when the temps are in the 70s and low 80s. It should creep 10 to 15 feet per year. Here are my most recent example pictures. This picture shows almost no St Augustine. Most of the turf is bermuda, prairie, crabgrass, and some horse herb. If you look carefully the St Aug is between the pot and the concrete. There is also some underneath the faucet. That was summer of 2014. This is the same area with the pic taken last week. Everything that is lime green is St Aug (no fertilizer yet this year). The gray-green is prairie grasses. Knowing that I wanted to keep the St Aug I only watered the small areas where it was and let the other grasses suffer. When I saw a St Aug stolon creeping out into the other grasses, I watered that runner. If you have common bermuda, I would let the St Aug take over. If you have hybrid bermuda, then you have a decision to make. If you want to keep the bermuda, mow it low 2x per week and stop watering. After a month with no water, the St Aug will begin to die out. As long as it has a golden cast to it, it is still viable, so be sure it is dead before you resume watering. The dormant bermuda will come back fine and fill in where the St Aug was.

Yeah, you are going to want to come up with your own watering schedule. Take a few empty tuna cans (or buy some rain gauges) and place a few in each zone of your sprinkler system. Then run each zone long enough to get about 1/2" or more into the tuna can. Then you just need to do some math - take the average water depth from all the cans in one zone and use that to figure out how much water your sprinklers put out per minute, hour, etc. The general rule of thumb is to aim for 1" per watering, no more frequently than once a week. Right now you might be able to get by with 1" every two weeks. I'd expect dchall to put his standard passage in this thread about watering practices, and that will be good advice. But it will be something to deviate from depending on your own situation. I would add that if you ever see the grass blades start folding, or have a more blue-ish tint, or just seem dry, and more crunchy when walked on, then it's time to water again even if it's been less than a week . If the grass shows those symptoms in the evening, check again the next morning, if it looks fine in the morning then you can delay the watering by one more day. If only sections are showing symptoms then due the tuna can test in that area when you water (and in an area not showing symptoms), that area may be getting less water. Or it could just be in more direct sun, have soil that dries quicker, chinch bugs, etc... But rule out water first. Also, atrazine is the herbicide of choice right now but once temps are in the mid-80s you'll need to switch to something else. I've been using celsius, but it does have a slowing effect on the SA grass. You can google celsius and st. augustine in this forum and probably see where I was asking all these questions about what to use etc... that was last year, lol. So yeah i'm no grand expert, but I know what watering and some of these lawn chemicals do to my yard at least.