Need help with breakfast nook coming together! Option 1 or Option 2?
tita3333
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Breakfast nook design help
Comments (4)I suspect you're not getting any responses b/c no one can think of any possible way that you can fit a breakfast table into the space you have. You said you have 9 feet from wall to island...but from the dimensions shown on your diagram, it is clear that 9 ft doesn't count the space taken up by the bar stools around your island. Then, because you have to access the office/playroom, you need space to walk between the bar stools and whatever chairs/benches you would have around the breakfast table because you have to access that office playroom. The barstools and walkway will take up a minimum of 4 feet of your 9 foot of space. That only leaves 5 feet for the breakfast table and chairs. Two people can barely sit knee to knee in 5 feet of space...much less have room to stick a table between the two that is wide enough for breakfast things. If you haven't started building yet, I would rethink this whole plan. If you have started building and are therefore stuck with this space, I see two options. 1) Forget about sitting at the island, make it half as wide and move the sink/dishwasher around so that you face the windows when washing dishes and forget about having any barstools. Then, you'll have about 11 ft of space and no barstools taking up part of it. That is room enough for a normal breakfast table with space enough between table and island to walk to/from the office. If you decide to keep the "french doors" I'd make them inoperable. 2) Forget about having a breakfast table at all. Instead, enlarge the island and do all your dining at the island. Be aware tho that many people don't find it terribly comfortable to sit on raised bar stools when they eat. You might need to find someplace else for the sink and DW and lower the entire (enlarged) island to normal table height. table at all. Just eat all meals at the kitchen island....See MoreDesign Finalization is So Close - Option 1 or Option 2 - Thoughts???
Comments (3)Frankly, all I see is a barrier island which is an island blocking the major paths. You either need a smaller island or a small work table there to make things more functional and to gain better traffic flow. We cook from fridge to prep/sink to cooktop. (Do a search for a Ice Water Stone Fire for more info.) To go from the fridge to sink, you have to walk around the island. You also have to walk through the cooking area. It's better to eliminate or at least minimize walking through work zones. I don't think you have room for such a big island. And it looks like your aisles are only about 42" behind the range which aren't wide enough for people to walk behind the cook. Aisles should be minimum of 48" for that. Note that is a minimum. I can't read the aisle widths between island/fridge and island/sink but they look quite narrow. Again, you should really have 48" aisles, minimum. People often want wider in front of the fridge to allow for door swing. I don't think you have room for an island bigger than this. To be honest, in your situation I would probably go for a smaller, mobile work table/cart/butcher block. This gives enough width for someone to walk behind the range safely and to not have to veer to walk around a barrier island to prepare a meal....See MoreMy family room and breakfast nook need help!
Comments (33)Sorry for the delay in responding. I have a senior graduating from high school this month and we have been busy with senior activities. I'm not feeling the whitewashed on the brick. Too country I think. I'd like to tone down or get rid of the pink altogether. I definitely don't like the black surround. I agree with Grover that it looks like a big black hole. I finally opened the fireplace screen (first time doing so!) and it's so dirty inside the box, I don't even want to go near it. Not sure I'm up for the fireplace project yet. Would like to get it converted to all gas and paint inside the box too. Probably best if I wait until after I get my daughter off to college later this summer. Would like to add additional lighting too as Izzy suggests. Can I ask for opinions on furnishing the rest of the room? I've decided against the chairs and media console I referenced at the start of this dilemma. I want to have a transitional-coastal feel to the space, if there is such a thing. I've had my eye on this swivel chair from All Modern in the Classic Smoke fabric. The color pulls one of the tones from my sofa. Two of these to go side by side across from the fireplace. The height of the arms and back are the same as the sofa, so scale should be good....See MoreIs floating 2 1/4” red oak floor an option for me?
Comments (17)OK...cork can be floated underneath a floating floor (like laminate or an engineered hardwood that is floated) or it can be GLUED DOWN (as in glued down underneath a glue down hardwood or underneath ceramic/porcelain/stone tiles). Cork should NEVER be pierced by metal. It will shred itself into cork dust over a few years. Agglomerated cork (stuff used as underlay or cork boards) is wonderful stuff (I'm a cork expert...so this is my wheelhouse) but it is expansive. If you pierce the cork with THOUSANDS of metal spikes (aka nails, cleats, staples) it will rub up against those spikes with the massive change of temperature in an unconditioned space such as your space. That rubbing means it will rub itself raw until it crumbles...and then you are in for some serious issues...It would be like nailing down hardwood over potato flakes. It would be hollow and rickity within 5-10 years. You would want to glue down the cork, then glue down the hardwood. But then you have to have a some form of conditioning because the glue then becomes the weakest link in the construction. Most indoor wood adhesives are temperature sensitive. They deteriorate if temps spike above 85F (they liquify) or if the temps drop below 35F (they become brittle and then crack and break). And just so you know, a floating hardwood has the same issues with the glue on the joints...the same type of glue is used on the edges to keep a floating hardwood locked together....See Moretita3333
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