gordonr, If there's nothing else I've learned during the course of my renovations, I've learned that everything ends up being more complicated than you expect. Once you open up the ceiling or the wall, there always seems to be something in the way of what you want to do. A floor joist where the tub drain needed to be, pipes where I wanted recessed lights to go, and now the recessed light over the tub is where it would make sense to run the duct. I can hardly wait to get to the kitchen renovation! I spoke with a rep in Miele's technical service group yesterday. Initially he was telling me he thought what I wanted to do entailed too long a stretch of duct - that it would reduce the performance of the dryer. I told him I expected that it would not be optimal performance, but what I was trying to determine was whether it would reduce it to the extent that a condenser dryer would have the same performance. He didn't seem to understand what I was getting at, so I gave an example: If the vented model has 15% better performance than the condenser model and the venting I'm doing reduces performance by 15%, then the condenser model would be generally equivalent, but if the vented dryer's performance is 50% greater, the same 15% reduction in performance would still mean the vented dryer was a better choice. I asked if he could give me any information about how much better the vented dryer's performance was than the condenser model and how much the venting I was considering would reduce the vented dryer's performance. At that point, he said he wanted to talk with one of the senior technical reps and put me on hold. When he came back, he told me that the dryer was rated for up to 60 feet (which I already knew) and that I should be fine with what I was planning on doing. He also told me that the sr. rep had indicated that having a condenser dryer in a closet could be problematic because it puts off a lot more heat than a vented dryer - you'd need a lot more air circulation into the closet with a condenser dryer. The closet I'll be putting the w/d into is 68" wide by 29" deep, so the extra heat and air circulation need may not have been as much of an issue for me as it might be for others with a more confined space. One learning that I took away from this: if you start to get the sense that the technical or customer service person you're talking to may not be as knowledgeable as you'd like, ask to talk with a senior rep. Like anywhere else, initial phone calls will be answered by more junior staff who will route the more complicated issues to more experienced staff. I've decided to go with a vented dryer, and now just need to decide between the Miele and the Asko. I'll let everyone know which one I end up with. Jan

Is the ductwork accessible? If so, can you post some photos—of as much of it you can see, anyway. And pics of the w/d area plus the vent, where the exhaust duct discharges outside, would be helpful, too. btw, I just bought a brush cleaning set for mine last week at Lowe’s. It can be attached to a drill and depending on the length of the duct run, used from either the inside, the outside, or both to meet in the middle. I haven’t used it yet because I want to change the transition duct to a magnetic system because it’s such a pain to reconnect everything. Here are some good overviews on the subject of dryer venting: Proper clothes dryer venting How to install a dryer vent Edited to add that until you know exactly what type of ducting you’re cleaning (rigid? flexible?), how all the individual pieces are connected to each other (screws? duct tape? cloth tape? metallic tape? shoestring?), if and how the ducting is supported, if the pieces are fit together correctly, etc., DO NOT USE A LEAFBLOWER!! In any event, if you post pictures of your setup, I’m sure we can walk you through it all.

Once you get it cleaned out put a secondary dryer lint trap right next to the dryer. This allows you to trap and remove lint before it gets into the long tube to the ceiling. https://amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-PCLT4WZW-Dryer-1-Pack/dp/B01LVYZEQZ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2YYCD6OA088YF&dchild=1&keywords=dryer+vent+secondary&qid=1600305883&sprefix=dryer+vent+second%2Caps%2C336&sr=8-2 or https://www.amazon.com/Fantech-DBLT-4W-Lint-trap/dp/B00CM2LH7O/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dryer+duct+lint+trap&qid=1600306012&sr=8-4 Read the reviews and decide which type (or find a better one) you want to deal with. But something like this will save you alot of trouble with the duct through the ceiling getting clogged up and becoming a fire hazard.

@acm I hadn’t thought about into the sunroom then out the side. That would be easiest, but would mean two bends. I’ll have to look into that. For wall cab plans, If you can make out my very hastily (not to scale) drawing. We have one hanging cabinet planned between our front door and window and an easy reach corner wall cabinet (the kind that wraps around corner, not angled) in the corner next to the range. The picture with the MW on the metal shelf is where that first wall cabinet would be and I agree that is the best spot. I’ve liked it there. It’s very accessible, you have a place to set things when you take them out. Its close to my cooking area but not right in it. This morning I told DH we absolutely could not hang a MW under the corner cabinet. It’s such a bad spot. You can’t actually get in front of things in that corner. I can’t imagine trying to pull hot things out of a MW from to the left or right of it. That does sound dangerous. He has agreed to put it in the wall cabinet that corresponds to where I have it now, but only if it can be inside the cabinet. The cabinets are shaker but he is definitely throwing in some craftsman elements and he really wants to try to get that uniform look that you see in craftsman furniture. This has been really hard because our space is odd and in order to make it work symmetry has had to go out the window. He is wanting to try to make the uppers as uniform as possible. I’ve done lots of sketching trying to figure out how things will work. Here is one when I was trying to imagine how to make the microwave not look completely out of place there above the range ending at the window. I just could not do that to my satisfaction. A hood will not only be more functional but it will look so much nicer in that spot. Here I adjusted a drawing to make the wall cabinet have an open shelf for the MW. He doesn’t like how that it would make our only two wall cabinets no longer match in style, which I get. I’m not super excited about the idea of having to open a door to use the microwave, but I’ll do if I have to. I’ll work on him some more first and see if I can get him to come around to either an open shelf or a built in. GE does have a smallish MW that can be built in or hung and would fit on that shelf and we decided to make them slightly deeper to accommodate a MW more easily. Since our prep areas are under the windows the deeper cabinets won’t affect us. I could hang it under the cabinet but then I’d have to move my coffee pots and I really like them there. @kaseki I hadn't thought to try that, though the MW is currently in a box. I was going to call GE however since its been decided to put the MW in the wall cabinet, no need to figure it out I’ll just sell the MW. Thanks for the tip about wind direction. I’ll keep that in mind.