Hail Mary Microwave questions: shelf clearances, blocking OTR MW vent
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Which is worse?Microwave on counter or OTR?
Comments (41)A bookshelf type doesn't necessarily have to take up counter space. We just finished cabinetry design for new construction kitchen & on attached, marked in red, is lift up cabinet that will hold counter top micro, although could be open - we just happen to be doing integrated so went with it covered. Like your bookcase idea too - if you've got room above though, you could free up that counter spot. . UNTIL RECENTLY, I'd have praised OTR location. We loved convenience as we micro a lot during dinner prep, handy while working below at stove. NOW wouldn't get one again. OTR stand for Oversized Timer / Reminder for us - that's all its good since several months ago when heating element expired. You cant just pop in a new one like buying a replacement counter top micro. When new house micro expire, unplug old, plug in replacement. A reminder that helped us decide against the pricier drawer micro....See MoreOTR microwave - higher, lower, or in line with cabinets?
Comments (9)We currently have an OTR microwave - and will with the new kitchen as well. Right now, the micro is lower than the cabinets, only because when our microwave died 2 years ago, we bought a SS one to replace it knowing *someday* we would redo the kitchen and get all SS appliances. Then, the micro arrived and it was bigger than the one it replaced... Anyhoo, I am planning that the new micro will be in line with the bottom of the cabinets, and since I am doing 36" uppers, I am most likely getting an 18" cabinet above it. Since the microwave is also 15" deep, I am also going to get increased depth cabinets for that wall so it is flush. We also want to vent to outside, but don't have that yet so I don't know how that works... Since my husband is pretty tall, I think we will end up having about 21" from top of cooktop to bottom of microwave. I am 5'7" and too much higher than that would be a stretch for me, I think. HTH...See MoreNeed advice resolving depth issue with built-in MW
Comments (14)Hollysprings, if molding is being run beneath the mw, then you are saying run the electrical into the back of the cabinet above, and then into an adjacent cabinet, is this correct? Aesthetically, this may be the preferred method. However, I would think from a mw replacement standpoint it would be better to run the electrical thru the 3" bracing between the mw and the cabinet above, and then into an adjacent cabinet. This would eliminate the need to unintall and reinstall molding below a mw every time a mw is replaced. Is there anything wrong with this logic? Electrical can always be run into the above cabinet if a taller mw is purchased later. Is there anything wrong with this logic? Trebruchet, thanks for weighing in on the subject. I would think that in the long run it would certainly be less expense to pay the initial $$$ of increasing wall depth rather than continue to pay someone to install new otc microwaves over the years since they all lack durability. In my home, electrical does not appear to be in that area on the garage side but electrical outlets are below on what will be the coffee bar side. However, there is a pull down attic ladder about 4 ft. past the door into the garage which is immediately adjacent to the area being discussed. Therefore, there is easy access to all the framing in this area. I don't know if this helps, but I thought it might. Is it structurally OK to install a header and jack studs if this is a support wall? At this point it appears I need someone who knows what they are doing to come in and advise me regarding my best options. I don't want to get into an electrical "hornet's nest." We may need to open up the wall to see what the situation is in that area. I'm deeply grateful to both of you for your professional advice....See MoreGas range with OTR microwave
Comments (14)tednv, we have this combo and it's on our "get rid of" list. Now, your situation may be much different than ours, but here's why we want things to change here: This kitchen was originally (when we moved in in December of 2006) on an over-booked electric box. We decided that taking some strain off of the box by splicing from the fireplace gas line was a great idea (which it was!). We even spliced again a few weeks ago to have permanent gas line for an outdoor grill because of it. But when keeping a small OTR hood/micro combo over gas? Probably not a good idea. See that window? Yeah, about that...it's the only window out of 29 in the house that was never replaced by the previous owners (not that there's anything wrong with that, we knew what we were getting into with this older home, but I digress...). That's an original 1930-at-some-point-painted-onto-the-window-frame window. It offers no other ventilation to the kitchen. Here's another thing: we cook. A lot. Stinky stuff. Things that would make your mother cringe (I KID!) We do, however, cook chili and Low Country Boils often for crowds (they, to put it delicately, stink to high heaven for days afterward). Oh, and yes, our OTR is vented to the outdoors. If ventilation is what you are looking for, then look into other alternatives. I (half-jokingly) said in another thread the other day that the OTR was good for two things: melting butter and keeping the time, and I kinda mean it. Hey, we had a combo in our townhouse and never had issues (of course, everything was on an electric system there). Personally, I wouldn't recommend it if you're remodeling or starting from scratch. I'd much rather keep the gas range and spend some extra dollars on a decent range hood that can handle the grease, heat and odors that come from a stove (especially a gas range), but that's just me. Everyone and every locale is different, though. What works for you and your bank account is what matters, ultimately. Here's my lovely OTR combo and (non-working) window:...See Morekaseki
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