It is possible to get a curbless shower without dropping subfloor 2in?
Anthony C
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agomyricarchitect
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Curbless Shower.No Barrier Walls = ???s
Comments (6)You've apparently thought this out, and you seem to know shower requirements. But just to clarify let me drone on a bit so I know we're on the same page so to speak: There are a few rules for shower construction, you're apparently aware of them but I'll repost for the heck of it: 1) When the shower is complete and with the drain plugged, the shower needs to be able to hold a 2" depth of water over the drain before water flows out of the shower. 2) The waterproof membrane in the shower must be pitched to the drain. 3) The shower floor should be pitched to the drain a minimum of 1/4" per foot and a maximum of 1/2" per foot. "Regardless of whether I use a preformed pan or build a mud bed, doesn't the fact that the entire pan will be lowered 2" below floor grade remove the need to slope the shower 1/2" per foot?" You want a "curbless shower", which means a non-vertical transition at the shower threshold. Meaning at the shower entry there is simply an "angled" transition from the flat bathroom floor to the sloped shower floor. With a 36" by 48" shower with a center drain, the drain will be 18" and 24" from the walls of the shower. To lose 2" of vertical over that short of a distance, you'd have to pitch the floor steeper than the 1/2" per foot maximum pitch allowed by code. That is for a shower with a sloped floor transition at the shower entry, what we refer to as "curbless". If you are willing to have a vertical drop at the shower entry, then you could use a premade pan like the laticrete pan. In general, the pans use a 1/4" per foot slope. The pans will also have a thickness of material at the drain. I don't have a schematic that shows the cross-section thickness of the hydroban pan, so I'll use the equivalent measurements from a Kerdi Tray for illustrative purposes only: Let's say you're going to use the hydroban pan, 36" by 48". The pan will have a thickness at the drain, let's say 1" thick. The longest dimension from the drain to the pan perimeter is 24"; half of the 48" dimension. The minimum shower slope is 1/4" pitch per foot, so the vertical drop over those 24" will be 1/2". Your pan will be 1-1/2" thick at the perimeter, the pan will have a vertical drop from the edge of the pan to the drain of 1/2", and at the drain the pan will be 1" thick. Getting back to the required 2" depth of water requirement: The pan only has a drop of 1/2". For code purposes, you need 2". So the edge of your pan will have to be 1-1/2" below the height of your bathroom subfloor. With the pan having a total thickness of 1-1/2", you'd need to cut down the joists in your shower enough so the top surface of the subfloor within the shower is 3" below the top surface of the subfloor in the bathroom. With the pan installed this way, you'll have a flat bathroom subfloor, then a 1-1/2" vertical drop down into the shower before you hit the edge of the pan, then the pan will slope another 1/2" to the drain. There's your 2" requirement. Made up of 1-1/2" of vertical drop at the shower entry, and 1/2" of pitch across the pan. So while there may be no traditional curb that you have to step up and over to get into the shower, there is a small step down. So by definition it's not what we call "curbless". I hope that makes sense. "With a 36" x 48" shower, I don't see there being the option of keeping a linear drain 48" from shower opening. [Drain placed on the back wall, is the 48" length, putting the drain less than 36" from the opening.] " With no drawing showing your door location, we're simply looking at this from different perspectives. You know your overall design. I don't. The description I wrote would require the entry to be on a 36" dimension of the shower and the linear drain to be 48" from the entry, on the other 36" wall. That 48" run will allow you to pitch the floor 1/2" per foot over a 4' distance for a total of a 2" vertical drop. That's simply one description of how you could get a true curbless shower (with a simple sloped floor transition) using the dimensions you gave. I hope all that helps, at least a little! lol...See MoreDo these curbless shower systems require cutting floor joists?
Comments (4)How much slope you need depends on the size of the shower, but all of them require a structure that gets you the required slope to the drain. For example, if you want to slope the floor 1/2" per foot toward the back wall, and the shower is 30 inches deep, you need a pan with a drop of about 1.25". You can make a tray between the joists and recess the underlayment plywood so its even with the joists, which will get you about .75" if your floor is 3/4" plywood. If you slope toward a center drain you could probably get the required slope with only a 3/4" recess. This would not require cutting the joists. I am looking at a curbless system for a new build, and my architect recommended using a double layer of 3/4" plywood for the floor, and then cutting out the top layer to get a 3/4" recess. I may go further and recess the floor so it is level with the joists, which would give me 1.5" of recess for the pan. I will still use a short 1/2" curb at the front, just to keep water from flowing out of the shower. I think I want to use a linear drain at the back of the shower and slope the floor in that direction, since it allows more flexibility in tile choices . When you slope toward a center drain you have to use small tiles or cut large tiles to follow the slope that is coming from multiple directions. When you make an even slope from front to back it will be flat, and any size tile will work. When you use a curbless system they also recommend fully waterproofing the bathroom floor outside the shower, and you may want a floor drain just outside the shower if you expect much water to spray out. Bruce...See MoreAdd low curb to curbless shower?
Comments (43)We did have our sunken tub flood. It wasn't from the drain being clogged. The sewer pipe from our house to the main sewer was clogged by tree roots so all drainage from the house stopped. Because our house is elevated a bit from the street level, the clog was around 5 feet lower than the house. Being higher than where the clog was didn't help. The sewer pipe filled. The water didn't come from the shower above the tub. The tub drain was just the lowest drain in the house. So water from anything drain that was used (the clothes washer, dishwasher, sinks, toilets, other showers) came out that drain once the pipe filled. The tub bottom was about 3.5 x 5 feet (the lowest part so not counting the area of the step in the tub. It filled to above the step in the tub so deeper than 6". That means more than 8 cubic feet of water. Now that the lowest drain will be in a shower, a curb wouldn't have contained the water. As myrica4 points out, there are other sources of flooding. The one that happened to us once in a prior house was a toilet tank that cracked. Nothing hit it - just one night it gave way. I got up to use the bathroom (pregnant at the time so not uncommon) and my feet slipped in the water. At least that was clean water, but a pretty unpleasant surprise at 2 AM or whatever. We cleaned it up and no permanent damage. The place where being on a hill helps is if the sewer line clogs below at least your next lowest neighbor. Then the water will come out of their drain and the pipe to your house won't back up. But if it clogs close to your house, the elevation of your house won't make a difference....See MoreNeed HELP with Curbless shower floor
Comments (18)Is your father in a wheel chair or are you anticipating the need? I ask because I have some experience dealing with elderly parents, their friends as well as some very senior neighbors. In my experience most seniors are not in wheelchairs except when they need to go a long distance. In other words, as long as they have a 24/7 caretaker by their side, they are using a walker to get around inside their homes. Also they are capable of stepping over a low curb with assistance for balance. As others have posted, it might make more sense for you to use your master bath for bathing your parents and turn the powder room into a toilet and sink area since accessibility to the toilet is far more important than a shower - e.g. when my father was in the last year of his life with a 24/7 caretaker, he had to urinate frequently versus taking a shower. While a senior can't easily walk over a tub/shower combination, there are actually seats that swivel and so a caretaker can get a person into a tub and then shower him/her with a hand held attachment. The other alternative is to turn the tub/shower in your master into a nice shower which you will then enjoy. I recently remodeled my condo with an eye to aging in place. There was certain stuff I couldn't do but such as enlarge the bathroom but I swapped out the tub/shower for a larger shower with a lower curb and grab bars at the entrance and along the long side. I also had a bench installed with its own hand held next to the shower so either I or my caretaker can hose me down while I am sitting if it comes to that LOL. Although my bathroom is relatively narrow, I can use a walker to get to the toilet and swing the walker around once I am at the toilet. I tested that with a neighbor's walker. I did also install a grab bar by the toilet and also a Toto washlet. The washlet is actually an aging in place accessory as I have friends who became unable to wipe themselves easily because of hip or shoulder issues or even arthritic hands....See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agomyricarchitect
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoUser
4 years agomyricarchitect
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSammy
4 years agoUser
4 years agoAnthony C
4 years agoNancy in Mich
4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years ago
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