This thread makes me smile. Jackie, I love the fact that you are living and gardening in a place that holds so much history for your family. I have an own-root Peace in my garden, a virus-indexed plant that got from Vintage in 2008. It was originally planted in my Rose Field among similar HTs. Life happened, my Rose Field grew over with weeds and invasives and I didn't have what it took to keep it up at the time, and Peace seemed to be lost. Last spring, I waded through that section of the garden and discovered that Peace was still there ... small and scrawny, but very much alive. I carefully dug it up, and it is now planted in my front yard HT garden, with other own-root HTs, where it receives much better care and it is thriving. These HTs seem to need more in the way of nutrition, so it gets fed regularly. I do my best to be as good as I can about keeping to my twice-monthly fungicide schedule, too. In return for my care and attention, Peace is growing and doing very, very nicely ... producing the large, bright green foliage that I think of when I imagine Peace. My goal for this plant is to keep it healthy and vigorous and to bud a copy of it onto rootstock to see what a virus-free Peace can do when grown as it was originally intended to be. When the plant gets bigger (it's about a foot-and-a-half tall right now), I will propagate own-root plants and get them out of here into other homes who will also care for and preserve them. (The photo of Peace and her little bug friend was taken yesterday morning.)

I would remove a lot of the old gray wood next March--cut the canes at the ground or at the graft if one is visible. Hopefully it will respond by making some strong shoots from the ground. It looks like this rose is best grown as a climber with all the strong shoots fastened to the fence. Tie them rather than weaving through the lattice. Create a fan pattern by leading the first canes low and almost horizontal, the next in a low arc above the first, etc. Having lots of cane nearly horizontal (or 45 degrees) will greatly increase the amount of bloom. Most roses have canes that are best trained after they have grown well out and become fibrous. Then they will bend without breaking. After it begins to get crowded again, remove a fraction of the oldest canes each year at the base, Do the main pruning in June after blooming to maximize the amount of bloom. You can also remove the stronger laterals (strong secondary shoots off the main canes) unless you need them to fill in. Cut the shorter laterals back to 2-3 leaves after blooming. The spots visible in pics 6 and 7 are blackspot disease, but the plant must be somewhat resistant or it would be defoliated by now. The foliage appears to be of modern type. The hooked thorns suggest the parentage includes climbing species. You can show us blooms and buds next May.

Hi. More info is always helpful! : ) The green parts that cover the bud are the sepals, and they are very useful in ID'ing a rose. Did you click on photos at the above link and look at the photos of Paul Neyron? (Some people miss that there are more photos.) Others to look at: Magna Charta - but I think the prickles are reddish on this rose Yolande d'Arragon - but the leaves on this plant are more pointed than your plant's leaves - I think Baronne Prevost - but this plant is more arching than your plant, I think... I keep coming back to the fact that your plant is grafted so it is quite likely not an old garden rose as it appears. Perhaps it is an early David Austin? I don't know when his roses first were sold in the US, but one of my favorite Austins is Cymbeline and it was introduced in 1983. John Clare looks sort of like it (maybe not enough petals?) but it is from 1994 which isn't close to your time frame. If you go to Help Me Find, you can do an advanced search and look at just Austin roses, or you can enter plant characteristics and see if you can get an ID. Have fun! (I'll keep thinking...!) Here is a link that might be useful: advanced search on HMF

Replanted in the fall, when the rose is completely dormant, into a 24 inch deep pot, would be ideal. Just trim off about an inch from the ends of the roots to stimulate new growth. A large pot means you won't have to repot again if it gets big. Keep the rose now out of the sun and put it where it only gets filtered morning sun. Never put this very old rose or a sick rose, in full sun. Older rose's roots ( as well as modern ones) shut down when it goes under stress such as high heat. This is how they save themselves. But the leaves don't shut down they continue to do their job. I know gardeners are fearful of wetting rose leaves because they believe it causes black spot but that has been disproven. It is the rose's hybridization that makes it get infected with one of the many kinds of black spot ,easier than other roses do. Wash the leaves off in the morning and they will dry off quickly and the rose will get water. All you can do is make sure the roots stay damp , not wet, as they are probably not functioning right now. No chemical fertilizes because this type is too harsh for an old rose. It is the rose fertilizer that you are using which is causing the tall, limp canes, it has too much nitrogen in it. Fish fertilizer is like chicken soup to an old or sick rose, or any type of organic will be softer on the plant. This is a VERY old rose and must be respected as a frail rose. All treatment must be gentle. Even being moved from where it was before you got it, is an ordeal for it because of the age.