You need to know the brand and model of your recessed housings to be able to browse a catalog and choose the trims and lamps that can improve the lamp concealment. New homes like your new one are often being built with inexpensive IC rated housings & trims. These have a stop on the socket assembly which keeps the lamp from being raised up higher in an attempt to control heat since the housings can be covered in insulation. Your 12 year old CA home probably had non IC rated housings which lacked the stop. There are more expensive housings and trims which fix this and there are some airtight trims which also can improve on this hopefully with the housings you have. If you want more detailed info then you'll need to provide more information.

I am going to be doing this Recessing Of My Fridge/Creating An Alcove For My Fridge Project in the next few days, just received Today an Estimate from my Handyman for the Project. Plan summing up everything I've read in this post is to Remove the Baseboard then cut into the wall & remove the Drywall on the Kitchen Side + Studs. Then Frame in a Header as it is a Load Bearing Wall. Cut a 4x8 Hole & install a Cold Air Vent in the Drywall on the Dining Room Side of the Alcove. Reinstall the Baseboard then Cut 3 ~1/2" Holes 12 Inches Apart along the Back of the Floor of the Alcove closest to the Wall. The left most hole will be for the Water Line running through the Crawlspace. The middle hole will be a Drain Hole with a Drip Pan below in the Crawlspace. The right hole will be for the Electrical Cord from the Fridge which will run to relocated Electrical which will be below in a Surface Mount Electrical Box on the nearest stud in the Crawlspace. Mud & Paint All then install Medal U-Channels Horizontally from Top to Bottom the Wall spaced 15" apart to add support & a ventilation gap. I think that's everything. Let me know if I've missed anything or any further suggestions/comments.

Yes, they definately should have been closer to to the upper cabinets from what you describe. My kitchen installer marked the plan with the measurements that would make the lights center on each upper cabinet but be as close to the cabinet as possible. You want the light between you, standing at the counter, and the upper cabinet so you do not throw a shadow on the counter you are working at, which is what happens if the light is behind your head. Think of it this way, your base cabinets with counters are at least 25" deep (24" deep cabinets with 1"+ counter overhang. Your upper cabs are only 12" deep. You want the cans in that 12" space over the countertop. I had them put mine just a couple of inches beyond the upper cabinet. That way, even if I am bending my head forward or leaning over a little, none of the light is blocked and there is no shadow over the counter I am working at. UC lights are great for lighting the area under the cabinets, where the upper cabs cast a shadow. Using both, you would be amazed at the difference in lighting, and will end up with true "task" lighting with no shadows. I would think the areas on both sides of the range are prime work spaces that will need something. Even without upper cabs, if the lights are behind you, you are going to be working in shadow. Flurescent UC lights do not get hot at all. Even pucks or leds would help, although the pucks do get hot from what I understand, another reason I chose not to use them. Sue

Have the electricians separate out the material and labor. LED bulbs alone cost $25 to $50 each. So you have nearly $1000 in bulbs alone if you add the mark up and etc. My trim cost about $40 each. I am using a nice reflective trim with chrome on them. Again, you need to know what they cost each for your special situation. Depening on the difficulty of wiring, 5 switches can be many hours of wiring. My electricians charge $75 per hour. Let's say 5 hours of wiring for switches. That is another few hundred. When you say $ per light, it is all misleading. It depends on how much wiring is required and how exposed the walls are.