Oh, also, regarding this: My apartment is in an NYC coop - I don't think they'll allow me to recess the pipe in the wall. The pipe *is* recessed in the wall--it comes out of the wall, usually--so they will have to let you move it. Also, the gas pipe is the building's until it hooks up to your stove. So it's their pipe being sunk into their wall. My advice, just get your plumber to shift it around however he needs to for it to fit. This is truly a case of "it's better to ask forgiveness than to ask permission." Just do it. The plumber will do it right, and safely--and the plumber's insurance should cover it. I asked my FIL, a licensed plumber and a pipe fitter, about whether you needed a permit (from the city) to move a gas pipe. He said, "no, not if you're moving one that's already there." So if the city doesn't need a permit, then I'd just "assume" that your co-op board will be similarly OK with it. And just never mention it to them. Truly, shifting the pipe is just not that difficult. I'm pretty sure it doesn't even need to have a "junction box" to access any new joints (electrical does, but not gas pipes, I don't think--ours have curves, etc., that are underneath the plaster). In NYC, any licensed plumber can do this.

And...to add to what vjrnts mentioned, if your duel fuel is a bigger appliance (ie viking, wolf, lacanche etc) pro style, it's SUPPOSED to be away from the wall, normally at least 3" for fire safety NOT TRUE. First, you can't make a blanket statement like this as it varies by manufacturer Second, even those where they recommend it be away from the wall 3 inches (for instance, Bluestar does this only if you use the island Trim - if you use the regular trim, their range is designed to be installed DIRECTLY against the back wall) you can install directly against the back wall as long as you extend a non-combustible material down 6 inches below the range top. Actually WOLF is the same - their duel fuel is made to install directly againts the wall unless you are using island style trim

@chispa, having the integrated counter depth fridge be 26" deep is pretty standard and pantry cabinets tend to be deeper too, In principle, you are of course correct. But we made out lower cabinets 30" deep for extra countertop space (awesome decision; so happy we did that!). So, there wasn't any intrinsic reason why the architect would have had to also pull the tall cabinets forward. And the fridge is integrated, so it is intended to be installed flush in its cabinet. so it isn't like your kitchen designer had some secret knowledge. No, it definitely isn't "secret knowledge" per se. It's just the ability to think on your feet and to recognize how every decision has consequences. The architect absolutely could have skipped this detail and things would still have fit; they just wouldn't look quite as polished. Also, it was their expertise to decide to put these two tall cabinets on that particular wall so that they would frame the range. @wdccruise, I would not do anything like you are suggesting. There always are trade-offs with all of these decisions. If you have the space in the floor plan to pull cabinets forward, and if you are comfortable making the needed adjustments (non-standard countertop dimensions; non-standard end-panel dimensions; built-up back wall or custom cabinet boxes; trim piece behind range; ...), then extra deep countertops are wonderful. Whoever decided on 24" counters as a default really didn't have ergonomics in mind. 24" is good for other reasons (cost and room size), but it isn't good for giving you adequate working areas.

@Molly H.so that makes sense if the stove's door is inset, like @wdccruise noted, that you can set the stove flush. I'm disappointed that Wolf doesn't state a spec for that. I mean, they should say "zero clearance needed horizontally to cabinetry sides," or something and not just leave it up in the air to anyone's random interpretation. A lot of these appliances are specifically designed to fit with 24" deep base cabinets, so it could be that the range is actually less than 24" deep and can be pulled forward flush without your having to increase cabinetry depth? I will say one thing that if you are only thinking to increase the cabinet depth by 1/2" that your material costs could increase if you did not have your cabinetry quoted that way. The reason is that 24" deep base cabinets allow 2 panels to be cut from the typically 48" wide plywood or MDF sheet stock. When you increase the depth by even 1/2", then you can no longer cut 2 per sheet, and the layout complexity and possibly material waste increases. A suggestion above to increase cabinetry depth to 30" is increasing in popularity in modern kitchen design and is often accompanied by deeper wall cabinets as well, 13" up to 18" deep, with the average increase being around 15" deep. You have to pay attention to clearances and aisle space if doing this. Also, the cabinetry builders may not always give you deeper drawers with the deeper cabinets, so watch out for that if you consider this option. Some people order 24" deep base cabinets and set them forward 6" just to get extra counter space, but then the cabinets must be anchored to the floor or some other such complicated thing rather than going straight into the wall studs.