Usually that measurement is including the handle and these ranges are made to slide into the space that has a 1” overhang on the counter so will be fine in the space you have. Go online and find the install for the range you have chosen and it will give you all the measurements you need.

As above. All range handles /oven doors sit proud of adjax=cent cabinetry. That's why you allow a 42 inch clearance to any other obstacle or island.

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One problem that comes up on Houzz is the existing gas pipe location and fitting the new stove to it. I would have the stove temporarily installed first to make sure the new connections allow it to be slid back against the wall. You could then temporarily align the cabinets and make adjustments, if needed. Then remove the stove and then install the cabinets. You can bring your cabinets forward, but that takes added work and then the possibility of having problems with other things. You want it not to stick out to far, but an extra inch or so versus pulling the cabinets away from the wall might not be worth it. Good luck.

Pulling the cabinets out and installing a stringer against the wall for counter support has several advantages. You will get the slide in range settled in properly. You will have deeper counters , even a couple inches , is a plus.. And third you have support for heavier counter material. There is a stone fabricator who is local here and an acquaintance: he’s been called to a few jobs where ikea cabs collapsed under weight. He only installs w extra support when it’s IKEA cabs.

A tape measure and the range specs are all anyone needs. Plus the understanding that a slide in WILL protrude from the counters. And how to design around that. Such as creating the proper aisle width. Aisle width is measured from the furthest protrusion into the aisle. If you are going to assume the liability of the design, you need to understand the codes and physical requirements.

M, having the integrated counter depth fridge be 26" deep is pretty standard and pantry cabinets tend to be deeper too, so it isn't like your kitchen designer had some secret knowledge.

I would not do anything like you are suggesting. Just make sure that the gas pipe and electrical outlets are in the correct locations -- as shown in the installation instructions (see page 14 for example) -- so that the range can be pushed back as far as possible.

Both lower and upper IKEA cabinets are designed to be attached to the rear wall. Trying to move the lower cabinets forward will just make the installation more difficult. Building the cabinets, leveling and aligning them, attaching them to the wall, installing the inside components, attaching the doors and drawers, etc. is time-consuming enough. There's no reason to make more work for yourself.

The ranges are designed for standard counter depths. For example, the LG LSG4511ST instructions (page 16) say:

"Optional rear Filler

"If the counter does not bridge the opening at the rear wall the rear filler kit, that is provided with the slide in range, will be needed.

"NOTE If the countertop depth is greater than 25" there will be a gap between the filler kit and the back wall.

"If the countertop depth is less than 24", the control panel will not sit flush with the countertop."

I have an old Kenmore range whose door protrudes further than the cabinet doors on either side. However, that door has vents on either side that would have been blocked had the range been recessed so its door lined up with the cabinet doors.

So I would just accept that the range's door will protrude somewhat from the surrounding cabinets.

-- amateur (but I installed my own IKEA kitchen and appliances)

Suggestion to the OP, post your layout here. Since you say you are basically replacing cabinet for cabinet, make sure you are not building in disfunction.

@chispa, having the integrated counter depth fridge be 26" deep is pretty standard and pantry cabinets tend to be deeper too,

In principle, you are of course correct. But we made out lower cabinets 30" deep for extra countertop space (awesome decision; so happy we did that!). So, there wasn't any intrinsic reason why the architect would have had to also pull the tall cabinets forward. And the fridge is integrated, so it is intended to be installed flush in its cabinet.

so it isn't like your kitchen designer had some secret knowledge.

No, it definitely isn't "secret knowledge" per se. It's just the ability to think on your feet and to recognize how every decision has consequences. The architect absolutely could have skipped this detail and things would still have fit; they just wouldn't look quite as polished. Also, it was their expertise to decide to put these two tall cabinets on that particular wall so that they would frame the range.

@wdccruise, I would not do anything like you are suggesting.

There always are trade-offs with all of these decisions. If you have the space in the floor plan to pull cabinets forward, and if you are comfortable making the needed adjustments (non-standard countertop dimensions; non-standard end-panel dimensions; built-up back wall or custom cabinet boxes; trim piece behind range; ...), then extra deep countertops are wonderful. Whoever decided on 24" counters as a default really didn't have ergonomics in mind. 24" is good for other reasons (cost and room size), but it isn't good for giving you adequate working areas.

You need to go check the installation guide for you range closely to see what the depth of the body actually is. An overall measurement will include the door, as mentioned above.

Also, depending on your cabinets, the oven door needs to be 'proud' of your cabinet doors in order to prevent heat damage. In the picture you posted, it's not clear but I bet that is a show kitchen. In reality, those cabinet door will be scorched by the heat coming from around the oven door. With some door styles, you can have the oven body flush with the front of the cabinets and have clearance to the door (an inch maybe). For styles like you showed, you would need to have the oven body flush with the outer surface of the cabinet door, meaning the oven door will protrude by it's thickness.

@weedmeister: "...depending on your cabinets, the oven door needs to be 'proud' of your cabinet doors in order to prevent heat damage."

Correct. The door of my old Kenmore range has vent holes on the top and sides. The side vents are visible even when the door is closed because the door extends beyond the IKEA cabinet doors on either side.

My range doesn’t stick out too much. Right to the end of the cabinets. Pretty standard