It's a visual thing. Take a pencil and see where the latch hits the plate with the door in the almost closed position. Mark the top and bottom on the plate. Open the door and see how the lines correspond to the receiver opening on the strike plate. A door usually drops on the latch side, so if anything the latch hits below the opening. But it doesn't really matter, too high or too low. If this is the case, remove the strike plate and file the opening larger if the latch is just missing the opening. If it's missing be more then 1/4" move the latch and fill in the other holes with a golf tee and cut it flush with the surface. If the latch is off,"in and out" check to see if anything is holding the door away from the stop molding. Try putting back the old strike plate to see if it closes with that one. If it does, compare the openings and decide either to move the plate or file it. Ron

We faced a similar situation with our house (coincidentally also in Florida). It was built in the '70s and had various "upgrades" over the years resulting in a hodgepodge of metal finishes throughout. Mind you, I am a-ok with mixing metals (I actually prefer it to everything matching), but it needs to look cohesive. We ultimately went with satin nickel knobs everywhere. My other options were bronze, but I don't care for the "rubbed" aspect with copper-colored bits showing through (which most seem to have to some extent), or matte black, but I couldn't find an affordable option I liked. So nickel it was. I honestly think any finish would work so long as it's the same on all interior knobs. When all knobs are the same finish, they don't jump out at you so much. (Note: our bathroom fixtures are all chrome, most of our lighting fixtures in the house are dark bronze, and they all play together nicely.)

Thanks for the input. Near unanimous to rely on my tin-eye to position the pulls. It is telling me to center the holes and let the body of the pull sit above the vertical center of the drawer. So that's what I'll do. I guess if it looks wrong later on I can get a slightly wider cup pull and position it lower covering the old holes. Thanks again, Barry

You could probably get modern full-plate versions of those -- here are a couple from Signature Hardware: http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/egg-dart-crystal-set-privacy-and-passage.html http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/victorian-rococo-plate-with-victorian-crystal-knob-set-privacy-passage-and-dummy.html Then (or with the current knobs) you could try something with a similar feel but a different material for the exterior, like this: http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/vertical-rim-lock-set-with-white-porcelain-knobs.html http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/maxence-mission-door-plate-new-york-round-knob-set-dummy-privacy-passage.html http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/entrance-door-sets/ellis-solid-bronze-entrance-set-with-round-knob.html http://www.signaturehardware.com/hardware/door-handles-locksets/entrance-door-sets/trenton-crystal-entrance-set.html