I have had great success with Scotts Bonus S, which is formulated for southern St, Augustine lawns. It will kill existing weeds. I had a real problem with wild strawberries and Bunus S killed them. As will all weed and feed products, you need to be mindful of root zones of trees and shrubs.

Dimension is primarily for grassy weeds only, such as crab grass, not broadleaf weeds. Treat broadleafs separately with a broad spectrum herbicide specifically for your bermuda. Pre emergent, fertilizing and weed killing is three different operations and have no bearing on the other. IOW, all three "could" be applied the same day without harm. The amount of dithiopyr that your bermuda can withstand annually will be listed on the Dimension bags label. Google "the bermuda bible" (in quotes)... follow that ... and your weed problem will disappear.

There is a problem with timing on the Scott's product. If you apply it on time for the Halts to work, then you have wasted the fertilizer. If you apply it on time for the fertilizer, then you could have crabgrass growing before you ever put the product out. It would have been better to apply straight Halts back when the forsythia first started to bloom and then wait until your actual grass has been mowed at the highest setting on your mower for the second time. That way you are sure to apply fertilizer to actively growing roots. But that is all water under the bridge. Do you have any chance of the new seed sprouting? I would say you do have some chance. You might have a better chance if you went out right now and sprinkled new seed on top of the soil and stepped on it with your full weight to press the seed into the surface of the soil. That is how Mother Nature reseeds her prairie grass. Bison, antelope, buffalo, zebra, horses, and other ungulates remove the grass, knock the seed onto the soil, step on it, leave their dung (you can skip this step) and leave the area. The reason you can skip the dunging step is because the importance of that step is the dung beetles that come along immediately and bury the dung in 3/4 inch diameter holes about 6 feet deep. That's not going to happen in your lawn whether you leave dung or not. But you'll notice that the seed is not buried in Mother Nature's method. It falls on the surface and is not mixed in with the top layer(s) of soil. I think the underlying Halts is not a problem for your seed. This is a good experiment. Please let us know how it comes out.

>>I've been doing some research on pre emergents and I've settled on Tenacity, unless anybody has a good reason not to use it. If the expense doesn't bother you, go for it. Not that it's really all that expensive, I'm still using the small bottle I bought three years ago. It should last another five, and doesn't seem to weaken with age so far. It's a very short-term pre-emergent, however! One month. After that, reapplication will be required. Since your new sprouts will be too new for any other pre-emergent that touches the Poa genus, Tenacity would be your only choice. >>The only thing I don't like about it is that it's not granular. I'm worried about applying it evenly. I don't want to overapply or miss areas. Any advice or tips on this? (Or perhaps an alternative product with the same traits that does come as a granular) Tenacity is currently rather unique, although rumor has it that there are others in the pipeline (not yet available to us common folk). To my knowledge, there is no solid form as of yet. Great care when spraying is your only choice here. If you miss, you miss--Tenacity is also good as a post-emergent, so you always have the option and opportunity to kill it after it sprouts. I have the best luck killing P, annua and P. trivialis with Tenacity either moderately late in fall (October for me) or moderately late in spring (May). It may not actually kill it outright, but it weakens it very, very badly just before conditions get bad (winter or summer). That takes it right out.