Natures Miracle is a good enzyme cleaner specifically for cat urine. I've seen the 1 gallon jugs at Ross for $5 or you can buy them from pet stores or any big box store/amazon. You basically just soak the entire area in the solution for about 15 minutes then wipe it up. Older stains need more treatments and after the 2nd I would pour a large amount and let it soak overnight. Older stains take a while to be completely removed.

Are you wanting help on removing the foam or just cleaning the floors?

Putting some warm water on the foam may break it loose from the hardwood but you wouldn't want to let it soak very long and further damage the hardwood. If the hardwood had some type of sealant on it, the urine may have caused the sealant to break down and 'bond' to the foam. I'd call a hardwood refinishing business and ask for suggestions on removing the foam.

Unfortunately, you may find those areas of hardwood that have stuck foam may be damaged to the point where the whole room will need to be refinished.

If there's any exposed, unfinished, wood with urine odor/damage, then you'll need to put a sealant on the wood to keep your cat from smelling it. Clean what you can then let the wood dry thoroughly before doing any other work.

I've had luck removing odors with Fizzion, or Jackson Galaxy's Cat Urine cleaner.

Natures Miracle has a product called Hard Floor Cleaner. Might help.

I like Anti Icky Poo from MisterMax. It comes in an unscented version. If the finish on the floor has been breached, you'll probably need to refinish the floor. If the urine seeped between the boards to the subfloor, you can try letting Anti Icky Poo soak into the same area, but there's a good chance that you'll need to remove the flooring in that area. Sometimes you can paint the subfloor with shellac-based primer like BIN 1-2-3 to seal in the odor. A water-based product won't work well. If it's really bad, it might be better to replace the subfloor, too.

A really good flooring person can remove sections of flooring and tooth in new wood that will be a very close match when the floor is refinished.

Really want to thank you all for all the good advice....Today, I did use hot water and soaked some of the foam padding, did a little at a time and used a puddy knife and was able to scrape almost all of the foam off...BUT, there is a stain still on the flooring and I'm sure, I'll need to get it, either sanded or have someone replace the boards...The house is close to 100 years old and the floors are orginal but have been carpeted for well over 30 years....It's been a job, just trying to get all the strips, nails and staples removed but a bigger job with the stains and the odor...But, I am determined and it will look great when I'm done (if I live that long), lol.....Thanks again for all the help........

sunnyd47 - If any of the wood flooring is black you will need to replace it. Hopefully just the boards in question.

The thing with pet pee stains is that they are stubborn and incredibly smelly. Enzyme cleaner and a rented floor cleaner are no match for the stain or the smell. Pet stains on carpet are bad enough but it sinks into hardwood just as much. It's tempting to want to do it yourself but hardwood can be fickle. Do one thing wrong and you have to replace the entire floor.

If not too much time has passed, consult a professional. They'll often give free estimates at your location and for what you need. Some also have online estimate questionnaire forms, like this one. Shop around and get the best deal you can. Carpet/floor cleaning coupons are also all over the place.