Which hardwood floor do you like better?
Karl Bush1
5 years ago
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Angel 18432
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Which is better for finishing hardwood, too dry, or too humid?
Comments (4)They both have a point and are likely basing their suggestions on experience. I believe conventional wisdom says that you should have a whole home humidifier to add humidity to the house during the winter. That would keep the wood at a relatively uniform moisture content. If you don't, there's two scenarios I would predict. 1) If you install and finish the floor while the wood is very dry, it will expand when the humidity goes up. Any filler in the cracks will probably be pushed out, the floor may move due to expansion and/or the edges of the boards may get compressed and the cells could get crushed by the force of the expansion. This could also affect the finish at the edges of the boards since the filler is being pushed up and potentially the cells at the edges of the boards are being crushed. When the humidity goes down the floor will shrink and cracks will appear. 2) If you install and finish the floor while it's less dry, it will shrink when the humidity goes down and cracks will appear. If the cracks bother you, they could be filled when this happens. Once the humidity goes up again, the filler would be forced out and the floor would be tight, like when it was new. When the humidity goes down again, the floor will shrink and cracks will appear again. If I was not going to install a whole house humidifier, I think I'd choose scenario #2. Neither scenario is ideal for the floor people since they get blamed either way, for a situation over which they have very little control....See MoreHARD WOOD FLOORS which to do
Comments (23)One way to think of it: a drawback to doing it all at once is that you have to move all your furniture, rather than one floor at a time, meaning there's no place for it to go (out to storage maybe? crammed into the one or two rooms with tile?). a plus to doing it all at once is that, while the floors cure, you have to move out for a couple of days, which is a drag, so easier to do once rather than twice....See MoreRefinished hardwood floors look nothing like the swatch. What to do?
Comments (32)The 'bubbles' look to be debris that has been trapped underneath (a few layers of) the finish. I could be wrong but from the photos it looks more like debris then finish failure. As to removing the 'sealant' (which we call the finish = polyurethane) there is no way to remove just the finish without going past the staining. The work to do this should be pretty easy because most of the work has already been done. If you have debris trapped underneath the finish (again this is just my assumption based on two photos) you can negotiate the price of the redo. If this is adhesion failure (horror of horrors) it will cost you NOTHING. Adhesion failure is 'paid for' by the refinisher. Right now, we know nothing for sure. If you want to change the colour, you will need to negotiate the price. And you will have to FIND OUT what the finish was (Bona is a brand...it isn't the name of the line...we need the name of the LINE of finish) and make sure it is NOT used again. I have a sneaking suspicion the finish is the Bona Mega which is helping turn your floor orange. You will have to confirm this when you speak with the refinisher about the lumps and bumps in the finish. The refinisher is responsible for 'knocking these down'....See MoreShellac over hardwood floor? LVP over hardwood?
Comments (0)I am thinking about using a shellac finish and sealer on this hardwood, which will be the floor for a kid's room. This Bullseye traditional finish and sealer product from Zinsser seems widely used and well liked: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zinsser-Bulls-Eye-Clear-Shellac-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3449840 This particular product says it is clear, and I think there is an amber tinted version. Can shellac be applied without problems to hardwood? I believe I could put poly on top of the shellac and be done. Is this right? Any tips or warnings? There is also this Sealcoat by Zinsser, which does not appear to be shellac based. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Zinsser-854-Sealcoat-Universal/dp/B000C02BXW/ref=sr_1_3_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=zinsser+shellac+sealer&qid=1610393849&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-3 Would the Sealcoat be a better option to just put over the hardwood? I have read elsewhere that shellac can be applied over poly, which is good since I don't know what is on the existing floor. Other places say shellac could be sanded after application, so when we have a chance to completely sand and refinish this floor, I would probably want to do this. Does this sound like an acceptable temporary fix, or is there something I should consider before proceeding? Would shellac ruin or damage the hardwood. I am also thinking about LVP, but I am concerned this hardwood floor is not flat enough for that. I understand the subfloor for LVP must be 3/16" within about a 1 foot diameter to work. Any ideas about this? Is there a way eyeball this floor to determine whether click LVP could be put down? Thanks!...See MoreJoe
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