I do think the tree definitely shows signs of having a problem. There are two symptoms that causes concern. It is correct that a healthy tree will normally drop older leaves about the time of a major blooming, or a major growth flush. However, normal leaf drop is only the older yellow aged leaves. The leaves that have dropped from this tree are quite green and are still healthy. A second, and greater CONCERN is, as far as I can assertain from the pictures, is that the leaves have not fallen in the normal abscission process. Normally the abscission of a leaf takes place where the petiole (stem) is attached to the branch. When a leaf falls because of normal abscission the entire leaf with the stem STILL attached to the leaf blade falls as a complete unit. "But under certain types of STRESS, separation occurs at the junction between the petiole and the leaf blade" (fm. Biology of Citrus) leaving the stem still attached to the branch and only the leaf blade falls. With out actually seeing the tree in person it is very difficult to be certain what is going on. As you live in California, it is possible that the tree can have some sort of a leaf disease, as I see two leaves with a browish cast. If it were my tree I would flush the soil with at least an amount of water equal to four times the volume of the container. Actually, the leaves do not show all that many symptoms of damage due to a high soluble salt content. Usually there is much more leaf burn and especially leaf TIP BURN when soluble salt symptoms show up. However, a good flush certainly will never hurt and can give a definite possibility of doing a lot of good. Keep an eye on the tree after you flush the container, if it is a leaf blight or leaf diease of some sort it should show up better in the next week or so. However, I think the problem is with the soil. You also might take the temperature of the soil and tell us what it is. Let us know how the tree does. Take care - Millet

Thought I'd post an update, since I got such helpful advice for my trees this past winter. All survived the winter indoors, even though, thanks to a lot of travel, I managed to dry them out pretty badly a couple of times, enough that the Trovita and the Bearss lost some leaves. Still, the Bearss actually bloomed and even set fruit. The Meyer bloomed off and on all winter, but never sent out any leaves and, when I set the four trees out about a month ago, still had not sent out a single leaf, since I received it. It had lost a couple of original leaves, but pretty much looked like it did when I received it last summer. Left two weeks ago for a long business trip and, while away the temps topped out in the mid-90's, unusual for New Hampshire, with heavy rains on a couple of days - basically hot and humid weather. Came back on Friday to find that all four trees are covered in new growth, YES, EVEN THE MEYER! There looks to be new growth from pretty much every leaf junction on the tree. And, it is blooming, again. The largest fruit on the Bearss is about an inch and a half long, so I'm hoping to have my first harvest this fall or winter. Maybe, I'll even have some other fruit, too? All-in-all, the trees look great, and I have to admit that they have not been babied in any way. My next two decisions are 1) should I prune to shape them (rather leggy), and 2) should I repot into larger pots? For #1 I am undecided. For #2 I am thinking maybe mid-July, once they flush out the new growth. I think I will check if they are root-bound and use that as my guide. We are headed into several days of rain. When we get a break I will fertilize them. So, in conclusion, for those who have cranky or 'balky' Dwarf Meyer Lemon trees in pots - don't despair. It took a year, but mine finally has sprung to life. Just give it lots of sun, water as needed and let the tree move at it's own pace. And, thanks to everyone on this forum, who gave me advice and support. I probably would have killed my trees without your help. If anyone is interested, I can take some digital pics and post them. narcnh

I'm a big fan of Bayer products, myself... or Schultz... when it comes to keeping pests at bay! I decided to use the Bayer granular systemic on everything potted this year, indoor and out, and I'm really glad I did. There's nothing crawling, flying, or building webs in my plants or pots... except the occasional housefly, or an errant spider that lost its way! No mites, no whitefly, no scale, aphids, fungus gnats, thrips... nothing. Every year I deal with such pests outside, and I try not to bring them in. I think the systemic helps a lot. But then, nothing I grow is edible, either... and for some, that's a consideration. But with the indoor conditions I have, which are close to desert-like, the mites do like to try staking out territory! Especially in winter! Schultz makes a 3 in 1 spray product... and I think Bayer offers something similar... I always look at the packaging to make sure it covers mites, because some insecticides do not.

Meyer lemons in containers have a fairly well-deserved reputation of being "finicky"... Water them too much, they will drop leaves; let them get too dry and then water, they will drop leaves; change the light conditions significantly , they will drop leaves. I would leave it in the existing pot until you are ready to put it outside; then re-pot it and put it out in full shade; after 2 weeks to partial sun; and another 2 weeks to full sun. When you re-pot it, do not fertilize it until you start to see new growth; the absence of fertility encourages the roots to grow in search of food. First the roots must grow and then leaves and branches will come; and they need food.