olychick, thank you for taking a look. :) I'm relieved to hear you think a white shower pan is best. I am heading out now to find porcelain marble look tiles for the shower walls to pick up the gray as you suggested. I want a shiny finish to the walls. Tell me if you think that's a misstep. I am avoiding marble as I have a marble topped vanity now that is pock marked with etchings. As far as seeing myself in the vanity, yes, I think I will be able to do so. I was planning on a black framed mirror spanning the vanity. My current vanity is 32 1/4" high (as will be the new vanity) and when seated on my vanity stool my reflection is seen up to my chest. The only issue currently is that my knees are pressed against drawers. I failed to mention that I was thinking of using absolute black granite for the vanity top for two reasons: one being cost and the other being to avoid etching. Will doing so deviate too much from my inspiration? Lastly, I had the idea of applying pieces of beveled mirror framed by black molding floor to ceiling along the back wall and continuing behind the toilet (similar to this only floor to ceiling with the exception of base molding & crown): [Traditional Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2107) by Northbrook Architects & Building Designers Michael A. Menn Thoughts? Suggestions? Thank you for reading this far. :)

Here's a thought. Changing out your master counter top is pretty easy to do after the build -- or even hire your own guy to make and bring it in for you while it's being built -- just warn the builder ahead of time (be sure to price shop -- quality and price can vary as much as 70%). (I've been told that builders make much of their money on changes ...). In my master bath I splurged on one solid sheet of Carrera marble for the countertop, and had enough for a 12" backsplash topped with a fancy edge. You could do something similar, and just go with the lovely but simple floor tile you picked and the cabinets, then go shopping for a stone that really speaks to the two of you as an upgrade. Even doing it afterwards it should cost less than what he's talking about or at least if it's the same it will be something you love every day. (And if you've never looked at full slabs in a stone yard you are in for a treat!) Just my two cents worth

I believe floor tile size should be proportionate to room/floor size. It will help if you provide your bathroom and fixtures layout. 178sf is ideally suited for tiles no larger than 12x24 to get some character onto the floor. Our master bath is around your bathroom size and we selected 12x24 satin tiles in straight layout for its floor with a dark grout and 12x24 polished for the shower walls also a straight layout with white grout. Large format tiles typically look better in larger spaces. As an example We used the same but 24x24 satin tiles in the kitchen (1000sf+) and 24x24 polished in our entry/foyer (600sf+) both with white grout.

I would choose a tile paint that would cover ONLY the red. Find a colour that would work for the bathroom (with floor pattern as-is) and then go ahead and paint JUST the red. But that means you would HAVE to change out the light/plug-in facing to the same colour (or match the wall tile colour). Personally (because I am cheap and lazy) I would look at large throw rugs (no backing...just natural fibres...you have in-floor heat) to cover up most of the floor. By leaving a bit of the red peeping out means you can leave the switch plates alone. If you are moving in 4 years, you can reassess in 3 years. Remember: if you are moving in a short amount of time, you are not the 'owner' you are designing for. You are trying to design for someone else. Someone you do NOT know. That's tough enough on it's own.