New construction- finally the fun part- light fixture choices!
Britta Morris
5 years ago
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Finally a little fun -what goodies have you bought?
Comments (53)Wow, this thread has really grown with some fantastic goodies since I was last here! Prill, Allison, Pinch and Firsthouse, you can start packing up your Flow Blue, wooden boxes and tablecloths, and Jessica Martin painting because UPS will be arriving shortly to pick them up for me. Thanks! Speaking of thanks, here's a big one to all of you who had some kind words for my coffee lady! Like most other choices in my kitchen, this one was a matter of love at first sight and so your "I like her too!" affirmations are making me feel like Sally Fields. lol. That said, I'm hoping this thread continues with others of you posting more of your own loves as well....See MoreFinalizing Kitchen Plans in New Construction
Comments (27)I composed an answer to you earlier and then - idiot me - I forgot to post it (didn't sleep well so I was not thinking clearly this morning). My initial drawing was based on the info you provided in your OP: 27" of counter on either side of the oven stack, which I assumed was 30". That's 84" total. 84" -36" sink cab -24" DW - 1" end cab piece -1.5" counter overhang over DW ------ 21.5" remaining, enough for a 20" cabinet with 1.5" counter overhang. Keep in mind that you'll likely have about 2" of counter on each side of the sink to add to the counter widths (I'm assuming you are doing an undermount sink) so you'd have approx 28.5" and 23.5" of counter next to your sink. But then I realized that that my numbers won't match yours because I did not shift the doorway over, as it seems you did in your more recent plans. So, yeah, that would make your sink run 6" less than I had envisioned. I think increasing the wall span to make up for that is the right thing to do. Your FR looks large enough that a foot or so won't impact it at all. The only issue you might encounter would be if you will have different flooring - wood in one area, carpet in the other - in this large, open area. The threshold between these two floors would not line up with the DR wall as it initially did. I don't think that would be a huge deal but I'm not as keen on symmetry as you are. If that's the case and it will be an issue for you, I see two solutions. The first would be more costly overall. Increase the DR width by the same amount, which would impact the upstairs and roof line. The 2nd is cheaper. Build a small bump-out in the exterior wall for the fridge's depth. Then that run stays the same depth, the door doesn't shift over and you would have 84" on the sink wall. If your aisle is 42" from island counter edge to fridge door handles, that would be best. If it's 42" from island counter edge to fridge door, that would be second best. If it's 42" from island cabinets to fridge door, not so good, because your aisle will in actuality only be 40 1/2". That's not much more than the depth of your fridge so moving it in and out of place will be more difficult (heaven forbid it ever needs service but you should plan on that possibility), plus it creates a pinch point here. You have a large kitchen: don't cheat on clearances. Oh, one last thing. Make sure you keep at least 42" between island counter edge and DR wall corner. 48" would be better. You do not want to create a pinch point here either. A few inches off the island will be much less missed than a few inches taken from that aisle or the one in front of your fridge. I'm glad I was able to help you! (Thanks, LL!)...See MoreRecessed Lighting cost $65 per can - new construction?
Comments (26)I'd say that's pretty standard, if not cheap. My Dad is an electrician so he wired our entire house. I'm not paying for any labour or up-charged prices, just materials. I recall him saying they were somewhere in the $40's and that's just for the lights (and all that fancy box stuff that goes in the ceiling) not including wiring and labour. I have a TON of recessed lighting in my house. Not only do I like it, but I wanted minimal cleaning of light fixtures. I'd say I have upwards of 30 just on my main floor not including the ones outside in the soffit and over the porch. Mine aren't LED though, I hate LED for indoor lighting....See MorePlumbing Fixture Allowance - New construction custom home
Comments (43)If you knew the owner's requirements in detail you would specify something that could be included in the bids even if it needed to change later. An Allowance should be used for materials (not labor) and act as a place holder in the contract. If the material is known but not the quantity, a unit price should be bid. It's not a difficult issue. What is difficult is how the contractor is allowed to buy the allowance material. Owners seem to get distracted by the Allowance numbers when they're not real prices. An owner might not know where the final price comes from; it might just be a number on a subcontractor invoice. On large projects, 3 sub contractor bids are required for each allowance item and the owner's rep chooses the winner. I usually stipulate that if the owner doesn't like the price or the supplier, the owner can delete the allowance from the contract and supply the material themselves....See MoreBritta Morris
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