(un)rooted cuttings breaking bud
Brandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years ago
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5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoRelated Discussions
I'm torn - planting potted tree breaking bud
Comments (7)+oM, From the FWIW category. I on a personal level have been raising trees from seed, bare root trees, and containerized trees and growing them into the fabric pots for the last 2-3 years. I have been pretty successful. The containerized plants have all had the usual issues of circling roots, and planted to deep in the containers. These plants I have literally hacked up the root systems to remove the problems (while completely leaved out), followed by replanting in the fabric root pruning pots for the remainder of the growing season. Results have been good so far, with little to no apparent root circling problems. One issue that I have encountered, is that the fabric tends to drain somewhat poorly at times, so that you can end up with a very wet bottom layer that is ripe for certain disease problems to begin. Some trees this won't matter, for others it can be fatal. In an attempt to try to resolve this, I have taken to cutting multiple ~1-1.5" T shaped slits around the bottom to act as drainage holes for excess water. I do not yet know how well this will work, but I would expect it to an improvement. Arktrees...See MoreOK to re-pot Meyer if buds are breaking?
Comments (7)I think if you are just potting up and not changing the mix, it is irrelevant when you do it; just be careful not to damage the rootball. I usually break or cut away the original container; trying to save it, usually results in root damage. Be sure to allow the flowers to set fruit before any thinning is done; pea size fruit is the best time to thin. And don't fertilize for 2-3 weeks after re-potting the lack of fertility will encourage the roots to grow looking for food. Of course, all of this advice could be wrong depending on the size, age, rootstock of your tree; and as always, if you post fotos you get more and better advice....See Moreupdate-giant jade cutting-new roots-cut back?
Comments (12)There is lots of variability in leaf morphology with "Jade plants". By the way, let's try to be a little more scientific and call them by the real name, Crassula portulacea I think is the current name, but C argentea and C ovata are perfectly acceptable synonyms. Anyway, were the leaves ever different? Maybe they're not supposed to be plump. Crassula arborescens ssp undulatifolia looks similar, with flattened but pointier leaves. This group of plants are in active growth when days are warm and sunny, with cool evenings. They can be pruned anytime during these conditions, which for most of us is spring and fall. Where to cut is a matter of taste and how you want your plant to look. Right above a node is safe. Too close and you may damage any meristematic tissue. Leave a little extra, it can always be trimmed back later. I believe pruning at the same time as repotting is safe, it will reduce the plants water needs during the initial stress of root-shock. Overall, Crassulas are very tough plants and you can probably ignore most of my advice and the results will be good anyway. The only definite thing is not to do anything when they are dormant at the height of summer heat and in the depths of the winter doldrums....See MorePlumeria tip rot on un-rooted cutting?
Comments (13)Thank you edzone9, the_first_kms2 and gaguy. I'm happy to hear that all is not lost... yet. I have been trying to patiently wait for any change. I want to believe that it's looking better, but it's hard to tell if something is different when you stare at it everyday. :/ edzone9- thank you for your advice. :) the_first_kms2- when I noticed the tip, my first thought was "No wonder this was on sale". My next thought was that it got 'frostbite' from being shipped in the belly of a cargo plane. I came here to the forums and learned enough to worry that it was black tip. You are right about the heat source too. All the cuttings and seedlings are located in the sunniest part of my apartment, which also happens to be the warmest, but no direct heat source. I read the forum enough to know that I could push my zone and grow plumeria in New Mexico, but it wasn't until after i had everything in pots that I found the threads regarding rooting in water/Gatorade bottles. It's starting to be warm enough during the day that I'm willing to take them outside for a few hours, but that's the best I can do right now. gaguy- thank you for your pictures. Makes me feel a lot better if I eventually do have to cut the tip....See MoreUser
5 years agosc77 (6b MA)
5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
5 years agoUser
5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
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5 years agoSara Malone Zone 9b
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJason (Zone 10b, San Diego)
5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agosc77 (6b MA)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agosc77 (6b MA)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSara Malone Zone 9b
5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoUser
5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoUser
5 years agosc77 (6b MA)
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoBrandon Johnson Zone 5b
5 years agoStephen Gibson (NC 7B)
5 years ago
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Brandon Johnson Zone 5bOriginal Author