I would not be surprised to see water damage to the shearing or framing after 2 years.

I don’t think it has anything to do with the guttering (although Todd is right about the kick-out). If you don’t see water streaking on the interior of the glass, my guess is that you have rain going around the IG unit because the seal where the exterior glass surface meets the frame has been compromised. If I’m correct, you can seal the perimeter of the glass with a small bead of clear silicone where the glass meets the window frame. This will have to be repeated every couple of years, but it will stop the leak.

Yes it could be coming in as Ultra describes but you really want to treat the cause not keep reassuring the symptom. If it getting in there it will eventually get other places. Sealing the frame to glass is just a band aid fix IMO.

That big a window, my guess is the glazing bead.

Are there any weep holes on the exterior side of the window? Are they plugged or caulked over?

Windows are not 100% waterproof and will leak water, they are designed to route water to the exterior through weep holes , and sloped sills. If They are plugged or not installed right ,have faulty parts or take on more water than designed they will leak.

Actual True Divided Light or Simulated Divided Lite? Were that really TDL I can not see how that would happen without the glass having broken? And if SDL It would not effect the water tightness of the window.

Looks like SDL’s to me. That’s not the source of the leak. Can you post up some pictures of the bottom and top of the window from the exterior? As WoW said, sometimes picture windows are installed upside down and that should be ruled out first.

I would not trust just a sticker to determine of the window is installed in the proper orientation.

Did you watch when it when it rained?

The water could be coming in f rom somewhere else and making to the window.

It still should shed the water if they flashed it correctly less it’s being overburdened

was water coming over or Past the gutter?

The Nail fins on the bottom of windows are typically not sealed to let water out but if you got excess water directed to that area it would allow it come in. If the Framing wasn’t sloped it would make matters worse.

I would solve the water issue at the gutter. You really can’t have water coming over the gutter at that point. You may have to remove the gutter cover so things don’t over but into the gutter, kick out flashing or a combination of both. My guess is if you remove the covers on that run your problem will be solved. Wouldntbbe surprised to see mold in the walls. Has tour builder responded?

Melt the snow an ice out Of the gutter

Not sure about kick out flashing not being required in Michigan. Building code R 904.2 says that it is. Siding manufacturers often require in their installation instructions as well. your Location is one of the worst spots not to have it.

Who is the manufacturer on the window in this case?

You can caulk the glazing bead (if that is where the water is coming from as I suspect) and fix the issue.

You can replace the window, without issue, in the winter. No problem there.

If the window is internally glazed (as I suspect and a close up of the exterior and interior where the glass meets the frame will confirm this), this is a glazing bead issue in my estimation.

I didn’t notice the redline at point of leakage. If it is coming in there I’d say it is coming through the glazing bead. You could caulk it as a temporary fix or put a piece of tape over it to see if it stops it.

Get me the same picture that you took where you have the red line indicated but on the exterior.

That should stop the leak. It’s not the best fix, but I’m betting you won’t see any more water infiltration. The problem is that it will have to be redone from time to time and your warranties will expire leaving you to take care of it.

Was that a final fix or trouble shooting?

Caulking the glazing bead can be a suitable fix, however, if they acknowledge the defect, they should remove the glass and re-glaze the window. If the issue is from the amount of water coming off the roof/gutter intersection, the builder should address that ASAP.

My guess is this is a picture casement?

The gap between the window and Frame should have some type of gasket.

This fix seems more like a out of warranty type fix to me , but it is kind of hard to diagnose without seeing it.

I am guessing the pop you heard was the glass separating from the silicone. While I suggested that fix early on, it was never offered as a permanent remedy, but rather a quick and practical fix that would have to be redone from time to time. With extreme weather, it will have to be repeated more often than during normal conditions.

The only way to fix the window right would be to take the insulated glass unit out of the frame and properly seal the glass back into the frame as it was originally at the factory.

My opinion hasn’t changed. The water is going around the IG unit, not around the window.

Water is coming in behind or through brickthen the flashing (assuming there is some) , the glazing bead or some flaw in the frame itself IMO. If water is coming around the glazed unit it is a secondary problem .