How can we re-work our laundry/pantry space?
You know how sometimes something makes a lot of sense until it doesn’t? Well, that’s sort of where we are with our laundry space. Let this be a cautionary tale.
When we did our addition/new kitchen I didn’t want the standard bifold doors in our kitchen. So we put together a space with power and an Elfa organization that seemed to make sense. Truthfully, we were trying to control costs - which we all know can often not turn out for the better.
After five years, we realize this was a miss.
We also have to find a contractor to put up or new cabinet doors in the kitchen (due to paint failure) and some structural work in the dining room that was added in the 40’s. So I thought it might be a good opportunity to address the laundry at the same time.
That being said, I still don’t have a vision for the space. We think we want laundry under a counter and cabinetry from counter to ceiling. We like the idea of landing space (i.e. drink service for parties and room to fold some laundry) and the look as well. But our goal is to maximize the storage space without taking away from the historical-ish look of the space. So is that the best way to organize the space?
Currently we store the brooms, ironing board, step ladder larger pots/serviceware/appliances, extra paper goods/storage bags/cleaning supplies, misc meds/first aid/cleaning supplies (many can be moved).
Here’re the specs.
Approximate measurements here.
--The W/D is about 27” wide x 36" tall x 27" deep each
--The wine cooler - a free standing Vinotemp from Costco - is 17” wide x 32” tall x 19" deep. We're not married to this one and could entertain moving it. We like having one, but are not wine collectors. -------The ironing board/brooms and ladder could be stored somewhere else.
--There is a ceiling light on the left, power outlet right/center wall.
--There is a fan/light on the right, along with power/water/gas and a dryer vent.
--The center wall and 14"-ish wall at the ceiling could (and should) come out. I'm assuming the power outlet could be moved to the back wall.
Goal would be to maximize storage while keeping coordination with the look of the kitchen. Would love to hear what you think could work so we (meaning I) can formulate an initial plan. We will not entertain moving the laundry in our small house.
I'd love your input as we start to plan.
Comments (15)
1929Spanish-GW
5 years agoRelated Discussions
We're really on our way!! I can't believe it :)
Comments (26)Yes- we really need to get some photos! I have just been tooooo busy every second of the day this past week! But it's really coming along: very exciting! I did purchase my Toto through a seller I found on eBay (ebuildersmerchant) but it wasn't an actual auction... I emailed them -as well as several other online retailers- with my list of plumbing and fixtures and asked for bids. I can't say enough good things about ebuildersmerchant.... their prices were gret, and the service was wonderful. Excellent communication, very fast shipping, etc. OK- pics soon I promise! Staecy...See MoreUpstairs ac/heat pump not working-we're srs & no dwnstairs bed
Comments (2)My initial reaction....and it's too late now....is don't pay a dime for any service you didn't authorize. You signed for the diagnostic, and that tech should not have decided what to do with your money. Shraeder cores, if damaged when brazing, can cause small leaks. How old are the indoor coils? They should have been replaced with the outdoor units ideally, but you already knew this based on your post. They may have leaks, but I wouldn't jump to a conclusion there. They should find the leaks and then go from there. You're going to have to put your trust in somebody (ask friends) unless you're willing to spend lots of money on training and tools and materials for your husband. Purchasing refrigerant requires a certification. By the way, I'm not biased from a professional standpoint -- just an average homeowner like yourself. Good luck....See MoreCan we brainstorm and save $100K on our remodel?
Comments (4)Alku: we intend on getting more bids, but between the cabinet bids(2) and construction bid (1) , it got me thinking in a less expensive direction! We will definitely pursue more bids and I think from what I have read here, we should be able to at least get the cabinet bids decreased in 1/2 if we shop around.That is really encouraging that your estimates on $/sq ft ranged that much. So hopefully we will find a happy middle ground somewhere.Thankyou! It just made me think, what can we do with what we have if we got more creative and tried to avoid an 'addition'. So will see what both options come up with! Remodelfla: the alcove has sliders at the north side and a window which goes almost to the floor but that can be changed.The sliders could be taken out. New sliders can't go on the FR wall -this backs up to the 'breakfast/dining room' which opens to a small porch -so access to patio could be via the porch or a single door possibly off the dining room on the east wall if needed. We no longer need the table in the kitchen since we have the dining room right there (previously our play room) BUT we would love an island for seating in the kitchen. SO that is the big ??? is , is this worth $100K+ to do an addition to accomodate an island OR can it be put in by simply redoing interior walls rather than exterior/addition? The idea of cabinetry in the alcove area is interesting as a start to all of this. I don't know if this will help or confuse things... this is the photo with the new addition. I drew in red lines to roughly indicate the current walls of our existing kitchen. But maybe this is easier to read then the above photo which I know isn't the best -its' hard to show the entire 1st floor without making it small....See Morewhich layout works better for our space?
Comments (27)The 1.5"-2" counter overhangs are standard and are so your counters extend slightly past your cabinet doors. Standard cabinet BOXES are 24". Then you add the doors/drawer fronts, which brings the cabinets out another inch. So a 1.5" counter overhang means your counter extends about a half inch past your cabinets. That is why we measure aisle widths COUNTER-TO-COUNTER, not box to box. It is a very common mistake that people allot only 24" for the cabinet depth on both sides if a walkway and then are dismayed to find their actual aisle is 3-4" smaller in practice than they'd planned. I have seen super modern kitchens where they install the counters to be exactly flush with the front of the cabinet doors (so roughly a 1" overhang) for aesthetic reasons, but that is a tricky, unforgiving install because ANY variation or un-flush-ness in the cabinet doors throws it off. Also, then the cabinets aren't nearly as protected from liquid and crumbs dripping/falling off the counter. Someone else may chime in with other reasons too, but it's my impression that you definitely want an overhang. We did a 1.5" overhang in our kitchen, and it's adequate, but I wish I'd done 2". I've got a lot of drips down my cabinets, and I definitely wouldn't be sad to have another inch of depth on my peninsula counter....See More1929Spanish-GW
5 years ago1929Spanish-GW
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAlso wanted to add that the wall between the pantry & laundry is not load bearing. the outer wall of the pantry has a shower on the other side. Behind the fridge wall is a bathroom. The cabinet to the left of the fridge is 16" wide and almost the height of the fridge. We'd put brooms etc there as was originally intended. The driver vents outside - there is about 2' of exterior wall that pops out behind that area.
Here's the original plans:
User
5 years agoI know the counter on top of the front loaders seems like the best option and best use of the space, but keep in mind that it will forever limit your options on the size and style of machines that will fit in the future. And maybe bending down so low to access both machines isn’t a problem for you now, but what about long term?
If there is another spot you can relocate the machines too it might make better sense to do that and build in the space to accomodate a true pantry. If there isn’t then maybe you can relocate the storage and build in something like this where the counter doesn’t restrict the machines quite as much. (Sink would be storage space instead. )
Sueb20
5 years agoOh, I have a very similar laundry setup in my kitchen. When we do the kitchen over next year, I’m not sure how to handle the laundry so I have spent some time already poking around on Pinterest. Here are a couple of pics I saved; maybe they’ll inspire you?
We have no counter space next to the laundry closet — there is a full height closet right next to it that serves as a pantry. But we do have a small island that is nearby, and a kitchen table, so that’s where clothes end up being stacked as they’re folded.
Annie Deighnaugh
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoTrying to get you more storage, is there a way to add 12" deep cabinetry along the wall where the phone is? Will that still allow room for traffic flow into the kitchen? That might then allow you to make better use of the existing pantry space. You can do upper and lower cabinets like in the rest of the kitchen with a narrow counter for phone, and off loading or whatever. The beauty of narrow cabinets for pantry storage is items don't get lost in the back of the shelves so easily.
Here's an example where they did the narrow cabinetry along the wall and blended it into the cabinets around the corner.
writersblock (9b/10a)
5 years agoAnnKH
5 years agoGetting rid of the header and dividing wall will give you a lot more space to work with. Whether you want counter space or not depends on how you think you will use it. Will it become a dumping ground? Do you want to keep the curtain, or make the area more presentable without it? Are you willing/able to spend the money to build cabinetry?
If money was no object, I would keep the W/D stacked, and build cabinets around/above them. I have pull-outs above my fridge that I find very convenient for light-weight or rarely used things - my canning pot, paper towels, extra cereal boxes (the open box is in a different place). Something like that would allow you to use the deep space without losing things in the back.
On the pantry side, use some combination of drawers and doors to suit the items you need to store.
1929Spanish-GW thanked AnnKH1929Spanish-GW
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
DLM2000-GW