Bush And Broccoli
dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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OutsidePlaying
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoLindsey_CA
5 years agoRelated Discussions
getting back into gardening want experienced advice
Comments (10)Taste is so subjective that I hesitate to offer any advice on what varieties to grow. I'd say try a lot of different ones to see what you like and what grows well where you are. The advice to go to farmers' markets is pure gold ~ buy some of their produce and try it, being sure to ask the grower what variety of veggie you're getting so you'll know what to plant. And write it down! Keeping a garden journal of what you grew, *and what you ate and liked*, is almost imperative as you can't remember it all. Believe me, I've tried (I'm really bad at keeping a garden journal, but I really should get better at it ~ taking LOADS of photos with a date stamp really helps me when I look back later). I definitely agree with Glib ~ learn what you can grow over winter. Most of those would be your cole crops ~ broccoli, cauliflower, kale, cabbage, brussels sprouts ~ along with carrots, green (English and snow) peas, spinach and the dreaded lettuce. ;) I'd grow some lettuce in between your larger plants, and in any small space that's empty, just because it's so easy to grow and so many people like it (chicks really dig it ;) ~ you'll meet lots of new friends just giving it away. That space between larger plants would probably go unused anyway, and the lettuce would act as a living mulch to hold in water and smother weeds. Same goes for spinach. Peppers and tomatoes aren't really hard to grow per say, but they're not as easy as beans and squash, so you may be challenged the first few years with them. Same with corn, melons and pumpkins ~ not really hard, but there's a steeper learning curve with them. Beans and squash almost grow themselves, so I'd definitely grow a lot of those the first couple years to keep your confidence up. Bush beans are easy to grow because they don't need staking and training to grow up something, but they put on most of the harvest at one time with maybe another flush or two after that, while most pole beans spread the harvest out over a longer period of time so harvests are easier to deal with. Summer squash (zuchini, yellow crookneck or straightneck, etc.) are quick from seed to harvest, but winter squash takes longer. Winter squash get their name not because they're grown in winter, but because they can be stored over winter due to their hard shells. Those hard shells take longer to develop, so you should plant those with that in mind (most need 100+ days from seed to harvest while summer squash is significantly quicker). If your plot is currently covered with an invasive grass like bermuda or Johnson grass, you'll need to solarize it before you can plant (just Google "solarizing soil" for instructions ~ it's not hard). I've tried everything else to get rid of those and it just doesn't work. A neighbor even tried multiple applications of Roundup to no avail. Once I even built a raised bed of 1x12s over some bermuda that I'd mown short and scraped with the front tractor bucket and that stuff grew up through 10" of soil to sprout again. I fought it for two years before finally dismantling that bed, only to find big old fat rhizomes still growing at the original ground level. That stuff's evil, let me tell you. I like Seeds of Change's seeds, but another place to get open pollinated (ones you can save seed from) seeds of good quality is Seed Savers Exchange and Pinetree. Pinetree does sell some hybrids as well, so be sure to look for "hybrid" or "F1" in the names or descriptions if you want to avoid those. I do most of my ordering from Pinetree since they sell smaller-sized packages of seeds for a smaller price, for instance 15 tomato seeds for a buck or so instead of 50 for three bucks. I don't need fifty seeds of each variety of tomato, so it's nice to find somewhere with good service who offers "home-garden sized" packs. Of course you could keep your leftover seeds from larger packs in the freezer (find yourself a few large kerr jars and put them in it to freeze, being sure when you take them out to let them reach room temp before opening so condensation doesn't form on the seeds ~ that'll make them lose their viability), and they'd be fine for quite a few years. Are you wanting to save your own seed? If so, Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth is an invaluable resource for learning how to avoid cross pollination and get true seed (seed that'll grow the same things again next year). It's not all that hard (I find it kind of fun sometimes), and you'll save a bundle in the coming years. If I'd kept up with it, I'd have saved the $96.73 I just spent from Pinetree (I've not gardened for a few years, so most of my seed is too old, kept in not-so-good conditions or lost ~ bad me!). You can imagine how much that would add up over ten or so years, having to order seeds every year. Whatever you do, have fun with it! And remember that you're not stretching yourself as a gardener if you're not killing a few plants, so don't let the "failures" get you down ~ learn from them and they'll no longer be failures....See MoreA few questions from another poster regarding B& B pickles
Comments (3)I have tried baking soda with little effect a mix of ascorbic acid and water may also help a little. The mildew happens rapidly and once you see a single yellow leaf, it has begun. I spray with a fungicide called Serenade, which works quite well. Its done every 7 days during the bearing of the cukes. Bees love the blossoms and I usually have many bees busy all day long. I go out and pick at sunrise as its a little cooler and easy to find them on a vertical trellis. The honey bees must be local as they are busy all day and the area sounds like a huge bee hive. They usually are just fine even if I am out there picking right next to them, as they are not very aggressive. I posted links above to web site for pickling cucumbers, and if you don't know how to get these links copied to an internet browser, just simply point at an end or start of the HTML line (above), and hold down the left mouse button and move to the left or right to highlight the whole line. Once highlighted, press the control key down while you then press the C key. Open a new browser page and remove the text at the window at the top. Or point to what text is there, and then its highlighted, press the delete key. Position the mouse pointer in that window while you hold the control key down and presk V to paste the previously copied text. Press enter. Then it will show you the web page link. I made it easier to show you the Jung pickling cucumber seed assortment. Here is a link that might be useful: Jung Seed- pickling cukes...See MoreVegetable Photos
Comments (2)Thank you, Glenda. I have three 4x4 two timbers high and one 4x8 which is 3 timbers high -- yes, lettuces are going great The spinach bolted, so that had to go. I probably won't be putting any more veg beds in unless it's necessary. Sunny...See MoreBrand New!! Layout Help!
Comments (5)Thanks sinfonian! I KNOW Its big. I KNOW its wide. But like I said, until I had it filled and was putting my twine grid up I didn't even realize that it was 5x10 instead of 4x8. I yelled at my husband for not telling me when he cut the one board in half for me LOL. But its done, it is what it is this year. There is NO way I'm tearing it down and starting it over. I planted my strawberries yesterday afternoon. Although they looked kind of sad, so it'll be interesting to see what grows and doesn't grow. I have not planted my pickling cucs, nor tomatoes, nor peas yet. Those were started in separate containers. The beans are bush beans so from the reading I did they won't need anything to climb. I will put something in for the peas to climb though, and tomatoes too. Thats why I spread them out so that I can still get in and to other stuff. So much to learn! I'll be happy if ANYTHING grows this year LOL. Even one plant ;)...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
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