kitchen design problem
5 years ago
Hi I am having a difficult time deciding on cabinet options surrounding the refrigerator. There is a wall on the side of the cabinets which extends 26 inches into the kitchen that can not be removed. It is a load bearing wall. I am not sure if 24 inch drawer cabinets with a counter top will look good. Also the 2 pantries next to the refrigerator are only 15 inches and we can not add pull out shelves. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks
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Comments (8)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoIf we are speaking of the fridge wall in isolation, I completely agree with Sina Sadeddin. But your island is a barrier between the sink and fridge. I usually prefer an island over a peninsula, but I think this plan would benefit from moving the wall ovens to the fridge wall, and having a peninsula for seating.
Dishes can be kept in drawers on the peninsula, for easy unloading from the DW, and easy access for someone setting the table. There is space for only one pantry on the fridge wall, but extra items can be kept in deep drawers on the back of the peninsula (or in standard-depth drawers, if extra deep drawers are not offered in your cabinet line.)
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Marble kitchen counter top
Comments (2)Alabamamommy's kitchen island is wood and marble. I'll post a link below. Beaglesdoitbetter's island is 2 incredible pieces of marble perfectly matched. Do a search for her user name at the bottom of this forum, it will come up. Here is a link that might be useful: alabamamommy's kitchen...See MoreHelp with kitchen design problem
Comments (11)If it doesn't match the approved design, I don't think your builder will give you too much of a hard time - s/he may try to get you to accept it as-is, but if you insist, I suspect s/he will relent pretty quickly. I would not do open shelves - first, they don't provide the balance you're looking for and, second, the last place I'd want open shelves is near a range or cooktop. No ventilation hood is perfect and some grease, steam, etc., will escape and land on items on open shelves. It looks like your hood is 6" wider than the cooktop - kudos to you and your ID! . BTW....If it's not too late, could you move the DW to the left side of the sink in the island (some layouts show it there already, some do not)? It looks like it's on the right and that means it's in the way of the cooktop "floor space" - it opens into someone working at the cooktop and can be a danger if s/he takes a step back and into an open DW (e.g., when emptying a pot of boiling water). I'd also move the "wine" to the far right and turn it so it opens to the side - that maximizes your prep workspace and gets the DW out of the Prep Zone and away from the cooktop entirely....See MoreDuctless build-in range hood - does it exist at all?
Comments (11)To do a wood surround like that, your Kitchen Designer will need to duct the air flow generated by the insert to somewhere. You’ll need a duct and exhaust grate similar to a HVAC return, positioned either at the top of the hood, or ducted 90 degrees through a wall into an adjacent pantry or utility room. Since tecirculating does not typically provide the air flow that a ducted hood can provide, you will also end up with more effluent on the surround and cabinets. That means more frequent cleaning, and the possibility of damage to all of the surrounding wood surfaces over time. That is why that most who need to do recirculating end up with a stainless under cabinet hood or stainless chimney hood, as it will withstand the care regimen better over time. Function rules over form. Be sure that the hood capture area is wider and deeper than the cooking zone below, as that will help with capture and cleaning both. Finally, consider the scale of the kitchen and ceiling height both when designing the kitchen. Most large mantle hoods appear overbearing in a smaller kitchen with a shorter ceiling. A 30” range often appears dwarfed by the typical proportions needed for a mantle hood. Be very careful here, and be sure that your KD helps you to visualize this through their software. It’s a pretty significant upgrade expense over a stainless hood, and you do not want to have regrets....See MoreKitchen design problem
Comments (4)“I would like to move the much-needed fridge-freezer so it doesn’t loom up on entering the kitchen and incorporate it on the other side with the sink, hob, oven.” The fridge is in the correct spot. It may just be too large a fridge for the space. You want the fridge to be accessible to all without requiring others to enter the cooking zones to get a pop or a snack....See More
PRO5 years ago- PRO5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
I happen to think 15” wide pantries are fine but they need to pullouts and not the kind where you open the door and then have pullout shelves but true pullout pantries. All of your base cabinets should be drawers , the cabinets on either side of the wine fridge should be pullouts too. I don’t know why your pantries can’t be pullouts.
- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
I like dezign interiors' suggestion; with the fridge all the way at the end of the run, the island would no longer be an obstruction between it and the sink:
Another option, if you use one 15-18" deep pantry cabinet beside the fridge, it could load from the side:
PRO5 years ago- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
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