Location of sink and faucet for people with chronic back pain
newproject858
5 years ago
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betsy white
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Vote - Back pain. Should I raise countertop height to 36.5 inche
Comments (37)slightly off topic, but still connected with ergonomics... 1) I am unhappy with "farm" sinks that have a cold front panel to lean into when doing dishes or washing veggies. I find myself holding back, which makes the lean forward an even bigger back-killer, plus I'm not relaxed because I'm worried about touching that cold sink front. I decided to put in a regular sink, not a self-front-panel one. 2) I have a popup camper trailer with built-in countertops of a sort, but they are very low, as low as the camper bottom section. In order to work in it, I bought two folding bed trays, the kind for breakfast in bed. They were in a department store, cheap but useful. I elevate the dishpan, the cutting surface, whatever. Very handy and it might help someone with similar issues in a house kitchen. 3) I read somewhere that the new deeper sink trend is a response to people's desire to camouflage dirty dishes in an open-architecture kitchen. If you are embarrassed to have a working kitchen, build a wall between it and your table. Don't compromise your back!...See MoreDeep sinks and tall people
Comments (25)Other causes of backache at the sink (the depth of the sink is easy-blame for all, but there are other causes): - The undermount sink is set back several inches from the edge of the counter, causing the user to bend forward at the sink, regardless of the depth of the sink. This is mentioned a couple times above. It explains why not just tall people can feel backache at the sink. Some sinks we have seen on this forum are 6" set back, so it's really hard on the back. But even the standard 3-4" strip in front of the sink can be hard for people with back problems. An apron front sink - one that does not have a thick curved front but instead has a thin straight front (the Elkay Crosstown is an example) - is helpful to alleviate this issue. - the kitchen faucet does not have a long enough spout reach causing the user to have to stretch more to rinse things. Even an inch or two on the reach makes a difference. This is particularly seen in high-arch faucets that have short reaches so that the water stream is practically at the back of the sink. Many websites that sell faucets allow you to sort for spout reach length - you want about 9" reach or more. - a tile or stone floor can make the back ache when standing for longer periods at the sink. This is easily solved by an anti-fatigue mat like the Gelpro....See MoreCalling all short people with a 10' deep sink
Comments (20)I would think the shorter the person is, the less problems they would have with a deeper sink. Because their hands are physically closer to the bottom of the sink than a taller person. =) I've got a 9 1/2" deep Blanco sink that will be undermounted below a 1 1/4" granite countertop...so 10 and 3/4" deep. I'm glad I'm only 5 foot 4!!...See MoreSinks! Drain location, Julien vs CreateGoodSinks, & prep sink question
Comments (33)@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you....See MoreUser
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