HRV and air quality
Lisa Bee
5 years ago
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Lisa Bee
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Are IAQ (Indoor Air Quality) Devices Needed?
Comments (3)If you have a tight house, you really need an HRV or ERV to get fresh air into the house. Some locations mandate them in new construction. We are having one (aftermarket model) installed in our new house. Here is a link that might be useful: HRV/ERV Article...See MoreHVAC advice: spray foam insulated house with BAD air quality
Comments (3)hrv for cold climates erv for hot humid climates. it matters what your location is. adding fresh air or make up air is easy. how much to add, is the question. was a blower door test performed on the house? what were the air changes per hour? using the blower door numbers, & volume of the house, ach is calculated. once amount of air required is determined then you make choices of how to do it. La. for instance is hot humid climate. an energy recovery ventilator will cost you approx $1200 installed. but a better choice is a whole house dehumidifier with fresh air intake. for a few hundred more. there are other methods of adding fresh air like barometric dampers etc. some work very well. you'd do best to find out how tight the house is. and go from there. best of luck...See MoreNew home NorCal - Best reasonably priced higher end HVAC system?
Comments (2)I don't think Brand makes much difference if they are installed properly. Having said that, I've had 2 Rheem Prestige modulating furnaces and 2 stage AC condensers for about 10 years in my home. Nothing but praise for them and the cost to replace 2 systems was reasonable. We have carrier in the other home - FV4 variable speed air handlers and 25HCD single stage heatpumps. The heatpump condensers are bottom of the line - if I had to do it again, I would get their mid range 2 stage condensers....See MoreMarmoleum/Cork air quality, formaldehyde (UF), VOCs, and finish
Comments (3)Update after speaking with Forbo Product Support: After reading the Click MSDS, I noticed "polymerized resin" is the first ingredient. I explained to Forbo Support that urea formaldehyde (UF) is a polymerized resin and asked if Marmoleum Click was NAUF (no added UF). The technical support gentleman responded that the top linoleum layer contains very simple, natural ingredients and NAUF, but that if I'm concerned with the UF content of the HDF core of the Click, I should stick with Marmoleum sheeting or tiles, which use a zero VOC and NAUF glue. (Even so, I'm not crazy about all that glue.) I'm keeping these Marmoleum Click floors out of my home because I think that there is a strong possibility of UF in the HDF core and the very long duration of UF off gassing. I asked about the top coating and Support said that UV cured acrylic is one of the safest top coatings; a purely bio-based coating would likely lower flooring durability. I asked about the floor finish to recoat or restore the factory finish: it was recommended to use Forbo's Floor Finish every five to ten years, so chemical concerns shouldn’t be a major issue. Eh. A quick note: Cork flooring products OFTEN contain UF. Cork is essentially bark that's been glued back together. A really nice flooring option if it was actually NAUF. Be Careful: There are certain flooring supply websites that advertise their cork flooring as NAUF or no-added formaldehyde, when in fact the manufacturer of the product lists it differently. CHECK OUT THE MSDS OR OTHER DOCUMENTS TO VERIFY!! EG: Amormim provides a DECLARE label for its cork flooring products on its website: Amormim clearly and ethically lists its ingredients, "Urea, polymer with formaldehyde." I’ve seen two online sellers that list this very product as NAUF or no-added formaldehyde. Personally, I’ve had no success finding NAUF cork flooring, click or glue-down. Not purchasing either of these green flooring types out of regard for indoor air quality. I do hope manufacturers continue their shift away from the cheaper UF resins. For now, I'll stick with 100% naturally oiled solid wood (e.g., tung, linseed, not sure yet) and porcelain tiling with zero or ultra-low VOC installation materials. I’ve read that porcelain (v. regular ceramic tiles) is cost-effective because it generally lasts many more years, reducing installation/demolition costs over time. (btw: use best practices to control air quality if you're cutting tile or ripping up tile made with quartz (crystalline silica)). Hope this helps!...See Morefsq4cw
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