lynn2006: thank you, thank you for responding! I'm with you re: color, it's what's steering me too. I need some help here though... I feel like I'm not understanding something: When I mention "Lock" that "floats" to someone they think it's a "laminate" which to me (& maybe them) is like a "picture" of wood. (So there's an instant reaction that Lock would be inferior.) The salesperson said it's REAL WOOD, and also dry sawn cut (vs. rotary cut) so the boards won't have repetitive patterns. My problem is that I have not seen a full sized sample of the Mirage Lock in the Maple-Charcoal color I want, (only small samples of OTHER colors). In the store I physically compared a Lock random color sample (pretty small) to a full sized Engineered sample, same color, and the TOP (stained wood part) indeed appeared to look the same to me. My husband is trying to say that the way he understands it, is the Lock IS hardwood, not a picture, it's (the top stained wood part) just not as thick as the engineered. (of course I understand that Lock has an HDF core vs. the plywood core of Engineered.) My question to you Lynn is: did you get the chance to compare Mirage Lock to a same color of Mirage Engineered both in a full sizes? And does it indeed LOOK the same to you? Also, did your salesperson explain if it "clicked" underfoot? Or looked "wavy" or anything different than the engineered? Thank you SO much for any help : ) (PS: I also like the 4.25" width but was actually considering 5")

Everyone gave me such good advice that I’ve come back for more help! Maybe I should start a new thread for this, but thought I’d start here first. Good news is I’ve corrected some concerns for the moisture issue before our hardwood install. Gutters, exterior drains, crawl space dehumidifiers in crawl space (commercial size) all installed. I’m also working with HVAC & electrical for temporary power to the HVAC system. So I’m feeling comfortable with that. I’ve also decided to go with 7.5” European live sawn engineered core with a 6mm wear layer rather than the 8” solids white oak. Now my issue is staining... I was going to use the loba 2k Supra finish but am now leaning toward an impact oil. Beautiful light to medium floors leaning more gray than red is what I was anticipating until... I realize my stair treads are red oak! I’ve contemplated getting a quote to change out the stair treads, but I have two large staircases and I’m afraid that will cost a fortune. We are well over budget already and still a ways to go. There is a decently large balcony area where the edge for the balusters are also red oak as part of the staircase landing and trim material. The balusters should be going up this week. Any suggestions?? Do I halt the baluster and railing install and have it all switched out (dependent on cost) or is there a way to match/blend the flooring and the stair material? I’ve read about bleaching the red oak, dying green, or staining both dark instead of light. I just don’t know the process of those options or how well it actually works. All advice is appreciated.

@kenuss I believe mine is laguna vibes driftwood, I'm out of town until tomorrow but I can confirm that when I get home. Yes, I'm still very happy with it and get lots of compliments. No one knows it isn't full through real wood. It cleans beautifully. If something sticky drips in cracks you I may need to use a microfiber cloth by hand here or there but that is rare. It does have a lot of texture throughout each board with tiny grooves if you haven't actually seen a piece in person. I have 2 dogs and a parrot and other than sweeping it with a cordless hard floor vacuum with a soft roller in it a couple times a week for dog hair, beach sand & dust and moist mopping with a microfiber mop with sprayer or my mopping machine occasionally it doesn't need anything heavy duty or time consuming.

The UV cured oil finishes are tougher with a longer lasting finish (initial finish) than a hardwax oil finished floor. The first maintenance can be as far away as 4 years. The REAL fun (on the cleaning/maintenance side of things) is the HEAVY texture of the wire brush finish. One Houzzer SPECIFICALLY asked for a 'no maintenance floor'. She wanted the floor to clean up 'like a dream'. She was SOLD a WHITE wire brushed oak floor (poly finish). Inside of a week she was pulling her hair out and crying. The wire brush finish GRABS all the dirt and holds it. This is a natural occurrence when looked at from a SCIENTIFIC point of view. The wire brush creates MILLIONS of grooves. They are small to be sure...but each groove DOUBLES or even TRIPLES the surface area of the floors. That surface area GRABS dirt and dust particles at the micro-level and never let go. Ever. You can clean and wipe and clean and wipe for DAYS in the same spot and NEVER get it clean. No I am not kidding you. If you want gray flooring, then go for it. If you want oiled or UV cured oil finish, then go for it. If you want EASY MAINTENANCE then STAY AWAY from the wire brushed finish. It is a cleaning nightmare. Stick with flat, smooth finishes. They are MUCH easier to keep happy.