Final plans! Need help with plans
Kelly Foster
5 years ago
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Final decisions, floor plan help pls (Bevangel, Summerfield, etc!
Comments (45)Hey Kirkhall, glad to see you're still moving forward! But, I thought there was a vent stack just about exactly where the hinges on the door into the NW bedroom are shown. Have you decided to go ahead and move that vent stack or am I just misremembering exactly where it was? Could you show exactly where the vent stack will be on the drawing above? I don't want to spend too much time playing with your sketch only to find out that that danged vent stack is in the way of every idea. But, I do agree that the sketch your GC's designer provided looks awkward. I'm comfortable with angled walls but they do need to look PLANNED! Where two walls meet at 135 degrees (90 + 45) they usually look planned. And, if you have two matching sets of angled walls that meet at 120 degrees (90 + 30) or at 150 degrees (90 + 60) they also usually look planned. But,where (as here) walls meet at some other odd angle, they often look like a mistake was made in the building process and the angled wall was just stuck in willy-nilly to make all the walls connect up. I'm wondering if something like this would work. (Probably depends on where that danged vent stack is!) The hallway to your bedroom would be made about a bit wider and the laundry closet a bit shallower than on your GC's design...but the laundry closet still should be plenty wide for the washer and dryer to sit at the ends as shown on the GC's design. The dotted red line is just to show how I envision the wall beside the NW bedroom would line up with the outer wall of the laundry closet. The only angled walls would be one at the top of the stairs and one in your bedroom and both would meet other walls at 135 degrees instead of some odd angle. If you put a small triangular table or some nick-knack shelves in the corner across from the hallway angled wall, you would create an angled hallway effect that would look planned rather than haphazard. I know one issue you're dealing with with the girls bedroom closets is that you have a kneewall at one side which is making it hard to figure out how to fit in a full sized door. But I think you could do their closets like this using 24" wide regular doors set where you have a full height ceilings. (Yes, I know 24" wide doors aren't exactly "optimal" but where space is tight, they will work FINE as closet doors, particularly for a child's closet!) Both closets would then be shallow walk-in closets (3.5 ft deep x about 6.5 ft wide) with hanging rods to the left and right of the door and a narrow aisle down the middle. Since you wouldn't have to walk very far into the closet, it wouldn't matter that the aisleway was narrow. Obviously, on the side with the low ceiling, you would not have any storage above the hanging rod but I had a similar closet in one of the secondary bedrooms of our old house that was built under a stairway and it was actually pretty functional. With kid's closets, you often want to put set the hanging rod pretty low anyway....See MoreHelp with final quote/plans
Comments (3)This HVAC sub did a load calc, but will perform another before final install to make sure it's correct. It's a computerized system he uses. Are you suggesting the 3 ton sounds "off"? House is 2000 sq ft, one floor, 9 ft. ceiling throughout, 2x6 construction with 29 external wall, 38 ceiling R-value. Okay on the concrete pad; I think we can just do that when we pour the back door slab. He keeps insisting there's no benefit in splitting the heat strip, but if I insist, he'll do a 5/5 at no extra cost. I'm kinda confused about this and don't know how to proceed. He says he doesn't have access to a 7/12, but I don't understand why not since he's authorized Trane and Bryant. I'm afraid I'm starting to sound like the lady who thinks she knows it all from spending some time on the Internet. Is this a big battle I should continue fighting (cost-wise)? Do I need the HW VP, or is the HW True IAQ okay for humidify on demand features? I'm also confused on the warranty. In this quote he says 10 year compressor, 10 year parts. But on my prior thread, ClassicDave said Trane is 5 yr. part, 10 yr. compressor. Should I push for a Bryant quote of similar specs? I guess I'm having trouble prioritizing. Based on the prior thread I linked in this original post, it seems you guys thought I should spend the $675 to do humidifier and IAQ, and maybe wait to see if I need the fresh air. That would be close enough to budget. Is that how I should proceed? Or should I try to get the IAQ, some sort of fresh air intake, then wait on the humidifier? How would you spend the $10K on this house?...See MoreNeed Help finalizing plan
Comments (13)I will post a current floor plan and a blank floor plan tomorrow. My son helps me. I do not want double ovens and I really do not want to move the window as it really messes with the asthetics of the outside of the house. The sliders are also a no go. I am more looking for input on cabinets. I am probable going to have a single wall oven and a range instead of two singles and a cooktop. The corner sink gives me the longest run of countertop. I currently have the following appliances: Electrolux single wall oven Miele 863 paneled dishwasher LG FD counter dept fridge Velos OTR Micro convection oven I am planning on an induction range, probably a GE or Electrolux slide in or freestanding. I have 6 count em: 6 doors in this space. I am getting rid on the one to the dining f=room and making the dining room a sitting room and making the living room a dining room. I face due south and enjoy all of the natural light, and that is one of the reasons for the reno instead of moving ....See MorePlease help me finalize my kitchen plans! :)
Comments (24)If you don't want to change windows, I still like the layout I posted earlier. You could do deeper cabinets on either side of the fridge and maybe move the fridge a couple inches closer to the slider. In my last kitchen I had a very small island (39X42) with the fridge directly opposite the stove and the island in between. I never once considered the island a barrier (maybe because the island was small). I usually removed items from the fridge to the sink area. Moving your stove down on the wall would give you a nice prep space and more storage near the stove. I believe you have 5 feet between the edge of your island as I drew it and your dining room table. That should work in your space. Use small tuck under counter stools. If you still think the walkway would be too small, you could do a nice lighted display case facing the dining room. Or just dining room storage. A peninsula could work, but I still like the fridge across the isle. I'm not sure seating works and I moved your stove down a bit to give you more room at the sink. Baking sheets to the left of the stove and pots to the right. Access to the corner from the dining room....See Morelucky998877
5 years agoKelly Foster
5 years agoKelly Foster
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
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5 years agoKelly Foster
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