I'm also painting them all the same --- doors, trim, ceiling trim, cabinets. The paint store people think I'm nuts, because I'm searching for the "right white." I asked my architect, "why don't other people do this too --- I very frequently see a decorator white for trim and then maybe a different shade of white for cabinets." His response, "Most people are not quite like you." Meaning, I'm super anal about those details and most will never notice, but I'll fixate. So, if you are considering this as an issue, chances are, you are nuts about the details too! I think this can look beautiful in the whites, but if your kitchen cabinets are a color, or wood, or even a paint with a glaze, then "white" trim is just fine because they don't look like they "should" match and don't, they are just different things. I'm planning to use Manchester Tan for all of mine --- I have never seen it used for cabinets and trim, but it looks really beautiful in all of my samples and I think it will work well --- and maybe not show as much dirt?

This is a photo from Houzz. Everything is painted in the same white (BM OC 21, Winter White). The cabinets were painted in Semi gloss, the walls in eggshell & the ceiling in flat. I don't know if you are using different finishes on your cabinets & walls. If it's the same paint from the same can, maybe a primer on the shiplap or an extra coat of paint? Or take a piece of the painted cabinet & a piece of shiplap to the paint store & have them color match it. I'm not a paint expert but the crown above my cabinets was not factory finished, it was raw wood. We didn't have a specific color to match to as my cabinet color wasn't a known paint brand/color. My painter primed the crown & then had the paint store match the color & the sheen.

@Dawne, you don't bother me. Ask as many questions as You need. Most are 6" ( upper cabinets and some smaller drawers ) and 8" on longer drawers.

Your walls will act as the backdrop for your art and décor and the furnishings you choose. The colors you love should dictate the neutrals you incorporate into your upholstered items, area rugs, bed linens, flooring if it is not wood. backsplash, countertops . . . The white should be the white that works best with your neutrals. You also have to recognize that bright, light whites will suffer the most from areas without good lighting. Something with a bit more color/weight won't gray out as easily as a brighter white. I used a bright white on white color theme in my home when I lived in San Diego. The color was Devine Color Icing. I had huge windows and every day was sunny. I now live in Central Pennsylvania and still have a lot of large windows, but the days are not consistently sunny and bright. The walls of my home were painted white when I moved in. I am renovating one room at a time, but I notice how often my white looks drab and lifeless with the lack of bright sunshiny days. I am using white trim, but not white walls. I picked an off white/light neutral for my main living area. Something with enough substance to stand up to the overcast days and maintain it's character. (BM Mocha Cream). The white that I am using for walls and trim is a Benjamin Moore Color match to Devine Icing. It is a bright white without any gray undertones. It actually has a touch of orange vs yellow, so it looks very clean. It works wonderfully with the purples and teals that are prevalent in my décor. My neutrals and my white would not work in my sister's home. She loves fall colors, muted greens and deep golds and oranges. My neutral looks pink next to her colors and my white is way too stark next to her muted colors. It is kind of like picking the right white shirt to go with an outfit. One white may look too blue white, one may look yellowed, another too creamy or too pink. It isn't that the white shirt you own is a bad white, it just isn't the white that works with the new outfit you bought. It may be perfect with a different outfit. Define your outfit first.