@ mike - I was thinking about a multi-tool. Home Despot has the Ryobi on sale for $28. I was wondering - I had been considering getting a dremel tool anyway because I need to do things like cut solder blobs to remove the end panels on bird cages and to cut cabinet door knob bolts off flush... Could a multi tool be configured to do either job? I wonder if because of the vibration I might not be able to hold it steady enough to not cut through the wires on the bird cage. Some of those solder blobs don't have a lot of clearance. I mean the standard dremel tool, not their version of the multi tool. I used to have one when I was still doing silver work. Here are a couple pictures of what I mean about sawing through solder blobs. The wire panels on these bird cages are held to the frame only by these small solder blobs and having end wires that slot into openings on the frame. So if I remove the solder blobs I can slip the end panels off, zip tie the cages together, and have one ginormous bird cage. This is a solder blob that is close to the wires: Below is a solder blob with plenty of space to saw through it: Don't get me wrong, its not that I don't like tools - but I'm sort of past using them most of the time, and I'm not exactly in the economic upper echelon. I got mo' problems, but I sure don't got mo' money, LOL! So I'm wondering if the multi tool in my not so steady anymore hands can do this job as well, or if I'd be better served to stick with the less vibrate-y and (I think anyway) more flexible and maneuverable regular ol' standard Dremel tool. Also, here are the type of cabinet knobs I'm talking about. The way these ought to be installed is, you drill a well - a hole that doesn't go all the way through - on the back of the door or drawer where you will be installing the knob, centered over the hole for the bolt. It should be as deep as the holding nut is tall or maybe a little deeper. You should be able to grab the nut with needlenose pliers to stabilize it when screwing the knob on. So wide enough to do that. Then you saw off the excess post sticking out so its flush with the back. So you don't have that long post sticking out into your drawer. This type of mount isn't usually used in better furniture, and isn't possible at all if you've got the crappy particle board/composite stuff that we mostly get stuck with these days. I see a lot of these installed incorrectly, leaving that post sticking way out like that. Anyway. I'd like to use some of these on my kitchen cabinets so I'd need to be able to cut that post off flush. I know I can do it with a Dremel, but can a multi-tool do it as well? Or does the vibration make precision a distant dream? LOL!

Do you mean buying another VaH, or buying another brand of hood, perhaps one that incorporates the characteristics that commercial hoods have embraced for maximizing performance and efficiency. This ties into your baffle question. My motivation to trample this ground yet again is weak at the moment, but en brief: Both VaH fans and baffles capture grease by centrifugal extraction -- the baffles by two direction reversals in the air flow; the VaH by throwing the air against an impingement surface. I don't have a VaH, but my impression from others' comments here is that baffles are easier to clean. Closer to my own interests is the question of actual air flow performance. VaH claim certain air flows, but these at best apply to the hood hanging freely in the air. With ducting and a roof or wall cap, and the very likely restrictions of the make-up air path, the actual flow rate will be less -- just as it is for the flow rates specified for conventional blowers. The question then is which technology (stretching the meaning of the word to its limits) produces sufficient restricted flow in the setting where it is installed. Data published by VaH shows that their fans have shallower fan curves, so they are less suitable where flow restrictions are present than conventional blowers. (VaH designs avoid the flow restriction that is presented by baffles, for example, so they start off with an advantage, but this advantage becomes a disadvantage when a complete system including the inevitable, intended or accidental, make-up air path is accounted for.) For many, noise is a performance factor. The lowest noise solution will be based on an exterior roof or wall blower, or an inline blower, supported by a silencer located in the ducting between hood and blower. This applies wherever there is sufficient space and the ducting is long enough to accommodate a silencer. One can easily talk next to my hood connected to a 1500 CFM (nominal) roof blower at full power with an inline silencer in my attic. VaH Magic Lungs, on the other hand, are at one's ear level, and in my view only compete for noise with hood interior mounted conventional blowers. Independent of the above considerations, one should first determine the flow rate needed, then apply loss factors for the blower sizing. This can only be done when one has determined how well the hood canopy is expected to capture the rising and expanding cooking plumes, and at what height one intends to place the hood for free cooking access and sightlines. There are important differences in performance and convenience between shallow low hoods, larger pro-style higher hoods, and large commercial hoods mounted four or more feet above the counter. We can go over these aspects to the degree you wish, but first I recommend you search for and read the many related topics on this forum that I and others have contributed to that address these principles. This will take some time. Alternatively, reading the first 20 pages in the Greenheck kitchen ventilation system design guide will provide a commercial perspective overview explaining the principles that also apply to residential cooking plume capture and containment. Then we will have a common ground to take some short cuts to scale general requirements to specifications for a residential hood acceptable to you. http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf kas

It looks like he got flush eves, if that's the case you can use facia vent... Google it and you will find a few manufacturers, but your gutters will have to be off to install it and gutters attach to it. They also have a smart vent but it looks like you have a new roof more or less a few rows would have to be removed to install that.

Either unzip the siding or cut it back enough to expose the screws. This is how I ended up mounting mine. How I did it is not THE way to do it & I don't remember why I did it this way. Anyway, it worked and it is on the back side of the house so I don't really care that it is ugly. This was a two piece mounting block that I bought for the job & I remember cutting & fitting some plywood into the backside of the mounting block to give me something solid to anchor to. Glued it in using OSI QuadMax.