I tried to see about putting in a baffle at the perimeter, but I have a ranch house with low sloping roofs. So, I can't get that far to attach the baffles to the rafters. What to do? put two baffles together. overlap the baffles and tape the two baffles together. push the baffle into the soffit, attach the longer end of the baffle to the roof deck. not ideal, but I've done this in homes like yours with low roof pitches. this will maintain the air flow, and the baffle will be held in place by areas you can reach to attach to decking. you can dump insulation on an IC can. but it is the air leakage that will keep the insulation from performing. 1 IC can is equal to 1 sq ft of uninsulated space. this is due to air movement thru the insulation. IC cans can have insulation next to and over them. it is the air leakage that is a concern. if each IC can lets 25 cfm of air into the house. this air is attic air..hot in summer cold in winter. usually laden with humidity and insulation particles. it is the air sealing that is the concern, but it will also improve indoor air quality and reduce amount of particulates entering the house. if you don't seal the IC cans, it doesn't matter if you insulate them or not..it doesn't address the air leakage. insulation slows air movement..it doesn't stop it. use same method for speakers in the ceilings. both are leakage sites. "I have a brick chimney extending through the attic. The fireplace is natural gas, and rarely used. Do I need to flash the chimney or something or can I dump insulation around it. I have numerous wires, light fixtures, wall cavities, etc." seal everything before adding insulation. else it is a waste at the areas that leak into the house. best of luck.

Hi everyone, Thanks for all of the advice and pictures! The pipe is quite large, so even without the warranty concerns, I don't think it would be feasible to place it in the top back of the cabinets (but believe me, we did think about that!) It is about 8" from the ceiling and 18" from the back wall. It's approximately 98" long - about 40" from the wall (or knee wall) or each side. Here's a picture of the design for the wall it will affect - the idea would be to keep the two end cabinets high (19" cabinet on the right, and 12" angled cabinet on the left) and lower the middle ones below the soffit. Although it is not shown in this picture, there is not a wall to the right of the cabinetry - there is a five foot wide archway into the next room. It's essentially a galley kitchen, so on the wall directly across from this, all of the cabinets could remain the full 39" hight. Of course, with the soffit, this would put them on a different level from the ones on this wall, but I hate to add back a useless soffit and sacrifice cabinet space for the sake of absolute symmetry! On the other hand, my husband's pretty concerned it'll look ridiculous with the varying heights...

I like the door move! I can totally picture prepping while looking out that wonderful bay window and chatting with those at the table. I am not sure, but what if you switched the fridge to the other side? I was just thinking it might be nice closer to the family room so people could get a drink or snack without cutting through the isle bothering the cook or else have to go all the way around the island. A microwave drawer on that end of the island might be convenient near the fridge and sink. Also it looks like the dishwasher is directly across the isle from the stove and that could cause a problem. What is the dimension of the isle way between the stove and island? I would recommend at least 48". Mine is 53" and it is sooooo nice to have space! Oh and I'd also consider switching those cabinets to all drawers. I keep my pots and pans in a 36" 3 drawer stack with the skinnier top drawer used for my spices. It works great. Best wishes and keep us posted on the progress. Btw, did you decide whether to keep the dental molding?

I'm still not clear what you're planning to do. Are you putting the insulation on the floor of the attic, or under the deck of the roof, covering the entire underside of the roof? If on the floor of the attic, you need some kind of baffles from the soffit opening up to and a bit beyond the top of the insulation, so that it doesn't get into the space and block the air flow. If you're putting insulation on the underside of the roof, you'll need baffles all the way from the bottom to the ridge vent so that there's a free flow of air under the insulation from the soffit to the roof. Here's a video that's of value to illustrate first putting baffles on the underside of the roof, before adding insulation on the underside of the roof.