The problem with the ref in the exact position you have it is that it can become a serious choke point. Using the 38" length marker supplied by Scherrs, and allowing for counter overhangs, the aisle is 38" without the ref-freezer doors and handles. Those will take away 3-7" depending on the depth of the handles(2"?) and panels (1.5") and the doors(3"?). Unless you're getting a very expensive ref, you'll end up you with a 31"-35" aisle. That makes two things tight. Carrying stuff like grocery bags or a platter through that opening - it takes about 42" for comfort. Maybe you never need to do that. People also need to stand in front of the ref when they use it and they sometimes have the doors open and stand in front of the doors cruising the contents. If that's a 36" ref, the doors will protrude around 18" when open, normal sized body depth is 16-18" and there is nothing left for others to pass. If you have a drawer freezer, same deal - but it can use a little bit more of the aisle. A door freezer uses a ton of aisle - like the entire space. Also the end stool user might get elbow in face - because everyone will turn around and set stuff on the peninsula. I'm not trying to say you can't trade off a bottleneck and a seating position, I'm trying to say I'm pretty sure that aisle will end up being a bottle neck. ================================== Scherrs might be able to make that entire end cabinet out of one piece instead of two seperate cabinets. You might ask what that costs because a 3" cabinet (without the door) may actually be 2" or less deep. You lose either about an inch (structural rail + cabinet back) in depth or perhaps as little as 1/2" if they can do a solid back that is structural instead of the loose back. Also ask about the depth required by the hinge itself for whatever hinges you've selected. If you're thinking 3" includes the door, then the cabinet will be either 1.75" deep or 1.5" deep. If it doesn't include the door, the cabinet could be 2.5" or 2" deep. If its built as one piece with the drawer cabinet (without the door), it increases to 3" deep.

Thank you for the reply. No, it is not adjustable. It was just a standard vent that looked similar, but smaller than the original. Perhaps its the wrong vent? This particular radiator is very long, much unlike the rest in the house. The pipe heated up just fine with the old vent, however the old vent was spraying steam, which lead me to replace.

When a hybrid tea has produced flowers, ( in the perfect garden ) one would cut the dead flowers plus stem off to the next budeye. The cut stem then produces more buds and flowers in a few weeks. In the summer, after most of the flowering is over, then you can cut the rose back by about 12 inches, fertilize, and the rose will produce another nice flush in the fall. The flowers should be the same size. Smaller lowers are usually caused but not enough sun, which you have, or something is affecting the roots. Too much fertilizer usually shows up as burnt tips of the leaves.

Retrofitting a house that has cast iron radiators with an air-to-water heat pump represents the best situation for a project like yours because cast iron radiators (emitters) generally use the lowest Entering Water Temperature (EWT) produced from a heat source – except for properly designed low temperature in-floor radiant. Aluminum fin radiators require a water temperature from 160˚F to 180˚F. Cast iron requires a water temperature of 140˚F. The lower the water temperature required, the easier it is to accomplish with a heat pump, the less energy required and the more money saved. There are high-temperature heat pumps that do generate hot water up to 160˚F but generally these are geothermal and non-reversible (no air-conditioning). Using an air-to-water heat pump in the case of your building would mean that all your existing (cast iron) radiators would be plumbed to a Heating Only circuit (zone) of the output of the HP. This is because the existing supply pipes and radiators would ‘sweat’ in cooling mode, creating conditions we don’t want. Since you want air-conditioning and that the supply water temperature with a HP in heating mode would now only be about 120˚F, supplemental hydronic fan coils (for heating & cooling) are required. These are on separate zones, designed for heating and air-conditioning, fed with hot or chilled water, piped with Armaflex insulated piping where neither the pipes nor the fan coils sweat and will additionally make up for the lost Btu due to the lower water temperature. In cooling mode, the condensate from the fan coils is collected and properly drained as in any other air-conditioning system. The cast iron non-insulated piping and radiators are switched ‘OFF’ during cooling mode by switching ‘OFF’ either the circulators (pumps) or zone valves controlling the water flow to these ‘heating only’ zones to avoid any problems created by condensing water vapour. Some but not all of the advantages of this type of system include one heat pump able to provide efficient heating and cooling, domestic hot water (DHW) heating, possibly including on demand domestic hot water heating as a priority, simultaneous heating and air-conditioning if so configured, easily zoned - including zones requiring different water temperatures. The use of a buffer tank(s) for hot and/or chilled water means that you can have very small zones, such as a small bathroom in-floor hydronic heating or a bathroom hydronic towel rack as a separate zone without short-cycling of the heat pump, as the heated water is drawn from the buffer tank without the need to run the HP till the tank temperature drops below a pre-determined minimum that would then require a longer, more efficient run time. Unlike mini splits, these systems are designed and built more like commercial equipment that when installed with a proper design should last a very long time and add considerable value and comfort to your property. The same system with a geothermal source, while being more expensive would also be more efficient. Air-source will work fine. Either system is a premium system with a premium price tag. Factor in the price differential of the different systems available including installation, operating, maintenance and life cycle cost. Something to keep in mind & a reason to ‘Think Water’: "A given volume of water can absorb almost 3500 times a much heat as the same volume of air, when both undergo the same temperature change." 3/4"tube = 20"x12" duct 3/4"tube = 18" ø duct I find NO fault with mike­_home’s suggestions; different approach, different philosophy, different cost. Although your costs seem to be high no matter what you do. BTW: As you are in Brooklyn, I’ll mention that as a geothermal professional, I was invited to tour a massive institutional retrofit geothermal project in Manhattan where they converted hydronically heated heritage buildings that are well over 100-years old to a system that is basically as described above except with geothermal. They probably by now have saved millions of dollars on energy and maintenance and never dreamt they could have zoned air-conditioning as well. To give you an idea of the scale of this project the boreholes and there are many, have diameters measured in feet with each one drilled down to a depth of 18-hundred feet (1800ft) through solid Manhattan rock! Sadly, after 9/11 it has become more difficult to visit this type of critical infrastructure. IMPO SR