So i checked out your pictures. I dont think you have anything to be concerned about. Palm sanders and leave those marks. Do this and this should prove me right. Take a little finish and apply it over the areas in question. If you cant see it then im right. Also i wouls suggest you screen the entire floor once all sanding is done. That extra step will take out the hazy too. The hazy just comes from different styles of grinding. I.e. Rotary vs drum. The screening helps blend the two together. Also kudos for tackling 1000sq ft for a newbie. When i first started sanding over 10 yrs ago i thought 300 was never going to end!

JFCI, Will try increasing the concentration. CFI, I asked around - some went up as high as $1.25/sqft. One of them was more reasonable at $0.75/sqft, but after speaking with him I realized that I'd have to move all my furniture out of the way. My floor plan is a little weird - the main living area is split up into two halves by the kitchen in the middle. One side of the kitchen forms the living/dining/great room and the other my home office making this a two day job because of moving around the furniture. I will call upon the pros in the future for a complete floor facelift - right now, I'm just going to try this by hand so that my floors don't look like they've been pulled from a warehouse. I'm considering getting a handheld polisher like this one - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-10-in-Orbital-Buffer-Tool-Only-P435/205975768 to help with removing the sludge. This will also give me the flexibility to work around my schedule/furniture. I couldn't find any mildly abrasive pads, but I reckon the microfiber/cloth pads that come with the tool should suffice at high enough speeds. Will update once I get out and but this thing! Thank you both for all the advice.

I'm worried about the 'pock mark' in your second photo. A fully cured, fully ADHERED finish WILL NOT do that. You can see the centre of the pock is gone and the WHITE COLOURING around the edge of the mark = adhesion failure. I'm HIGHLY suspicious this floor is going to have more and more issues. A dropped toy should dent the WOOD but leave the finish INTACT. This is the OPPOSITE. The wood is intact (not a heavy object) but the FINISH has FAILED. I would assume the worst. If one spot fails, it is most likely it will ALL FAIL. As for the white scratches, that can be normal for a fresh finish. Even after a full 30+ day cure they can be a little delicate. I would recommend bringing in an NWFA Certified inspector (www.nwfa.org) and pay them for an inspection. They will perform an adhesion test to see how well that oil based poly is grabbing the Minwax stain. While you are waiting for the NWFA Inspector to call you back, I would reach out to Masterline (as G&S suggested a few weeks ago) to find out if Minwax is an acceptable stain underneath their product. And if so, how much time they want to see from 'stain' to first coat of finish. Minwax is KNOWN for taking many many hours (some required 24-72 hours) before the first coat of finish can be applied.

To add to G & S's comment above: Windex Original = 5% ammonia. The Bona Mega is NOT the top of the line Bona. It is the entry level. The scratches are hard evidence to prove this. And I do NOT like how white/deep those scratches are. That's not a great thing to see on a fresh finish. If MINWAX was used, the dry-time between stain and seal/finish can be 72 hours (that's 3 days....hmmm). Bona can work nicely with Minwax or it can have issues. Bona does not allow (officially) another stain brand to be used with their finishes. Bona Mega has a slightly longer dry time than Bona HD. The Mega can require 7-10 days to cure. That means the time that you can COVER IT is 7-10 days. So if we do the math, you need 3 days for the Minwax stain to dry before the coating systems is used. You need 2 days for 3 coats to be applied = 5 days into the process. Then we need another 7-10 days BEFORE we can COVER the floors with Ram Board. Now we are at 15 days. I think this job has been rushed. I do NOT like fresh floors covered up on day 4. Even Bona HD requires a full 5-7 days before they should be covered. Now for the stains. These are DEFINITELY man made (or should we say maid-made). I agree there is a sponge mark on the floor. That's the sold black mark. The 'bottle' outline, you will find, is an IDENTICAL shape to a Windex spray bottle. And the wrinkly brown stains are rag marks. If this floor was FULLY cured BEFORE the cleaning occurred, then it had a better chance of surviving these events. To be clear, a DAMP CLEANING on a wood floor is allowed after 2 weeks of FULL CURE. Your floors were NOT fully cured before the Ram Board was put down. You have ACTIVE chemicals that are curing on that floor. The maids should not have had anything 'wet' on that floor for another 15 days (you have to add another 10 days because the floors were covered up and therefore had not cured). There are three issues here: 1. Refinishers mixed their chemicals and used low-end Bona (HD is more expensive and offers MUCH BETTER protection). 2. Cure times were NOT respected and floors were covered too soon 3. Maids were allowed in (without specific instructions) and allowed to wet clean these floors before the floors were ready for it. That's a WHOLE LOT'A finger pointing going on.