What to do with Turf Type Tall Fescue (TTF) in my lawn?
Greg gman997
5 years ago
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Tom
5 years agomishmosh
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Take it to the Next Level: NC Tall Fescue Lawn Care
Comments (4)If you are going Organic, you really can not over do your applications. Lawn Restore is a good product, but you can also use Corn Meal or Cracked Corn, Soy Bean Meal and Milorganite (5-2-0 with 4% iron) to give you some diversity. Used Coffee Grounds can be used, if you can find a good source. In the fall, you can mulch mow leaves others throw away curb side and add lots of organic matter for free to your yard. It usually take 3-4 passes to make them disappear. Your neighbors will think you are crazy, but you can not deny the results. I applied 350lbs of organics / 1000 ft2 last year. Hoping to hit 500+ this year. Now for the clay, you can use a soil conditioner and wetting agent to loosen it up. This with the organics will open up the soil over a few years. Humic Acid, Dried Kelp and Black Strap Molasses can help energize the microbes in the soil and get things moving quickly in the spring. NC Agronomic agency soil tests are free and get you in the ball park. Although, once you dial the soil in, you may want to use a lab that gives you more details so you can tweak the other elements in your soil (Boron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc and Iron) Using lime (whether Calcitic or Dolomitic) is important and which one you use will help you with your pH and Calcium to Magnesium ratio (7:1 is what you are shooting for). Calcitic is usually 5x the price, but has 5x the Calcium. S http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0311011017714.html Lastly, NCState as a NTEP testing site for grasses. If you want the best results, using the best grass for this area is key. Typically the big box stores are not the best place. Online you can order exactly what you want. http://www.ntep.org/tf.htm Just read the results for the NC testing center and you can get an idea of which varieties you will want. In the end, you are probably not too far off. Since you enjoy it, adding a few more pieces to your schedule should improve your results....See MoreNew fescue lawn,....what to do ab young crabgrass?
Comments (3)>"and I know that I shouldn't use any chemicals to kill the crabgrass youngsters because it will be tough on the fescue." You are misinterpreting something. You sowed in fall. Your new lawn over wintered, your new lawn is now considered mature enough to withstand any herbicide. If you are still leery, use a herbicide that contains quinclorac. Rutgers and Purdue Universities have tested and proven Quinclorac is safe on cool season grass 30 days after emergence (Google it) and does a great job on CG. It will also take care of that clover, too! Drive 75, Ortho Weed B Gone for crab grass (newest formula - check label) all contain quinclorac. So get up off your hands and knees and stand up with a 2 gallon sprayer and spray that CG!...See Moreturf type tall fescue
Comments (7)I too have TTTF. I cut it to 3 inches, and I have the same issues with it not returning to it's upright appearance as you do. I think cutting to 4 inches for TTTF is too long for a few reasons. First of all it raises the height of the node where the blade meets the stem. This makes the lawn less green, and stemmier when it's cut. If you mow to 4 inches, then that means you are letting the grass get to between 5 and 6 inches. In addition to looking messy and floppy, this also makes the environment for lawn disease better, as the grass will be continually wet. Also a long period of rain in the summer can potentially cause the grass to get to over six inches if it starts at 4+ inches, which isn't a good thing. Most TTTF growers say you should mow at 2-3 inches on the bag, and that's good enough for me. Here's a good link to an overview of how grass is affected by mowing heights, fertilizer, temperature, and other factors. Hope this helps. http://www.purdue.edu/envirosoft/lawn/src/physiology.htm...See MoreOverseeding Red Fescue/Ryegrass over Tall Fescue Lawn
Comments (4)Most around here, including me, will try to encourage people to avoid "scotts" grass seed mixes. They are far from being good by any means. I was trying to find the % of the Sun & Shade you quoted and all I could find is this.. "Scotts Select Turf "Sun and Shade" (50% Boreal creeping red fescue, 35% Ragnar II perennial ryegrass, 15% Alene Kentucky bluegrass). Boreal is a fancy name for common creeping red fescue. Although it is adapted to shady growing conditions, Boral has none of the bred-in advantages of improved fine fescue varieties. Ragnar II, like all perennial ryegrasses, has no shade tolerance. Alene is a common type bluegrass that ranks at the bottom of the NTEP trials." A further explanation of my statement above. 6-8 hours of sun is the standard for "Full sun", against the misconception of full sun truly being sun all day long. You could really use any of the three cool season grasses and do not need the fine fescues. However, like I said before, any of the newer varieties are not going to visually blend well if you have an old wide blade fescue. ..I also didn't mention the different growing rates if you are to put a KBG or RYE on the fescue. A few days after cutting, it will look uneven. Ultimately the best thing to do would be to kill of the whole thing and start over (assuming you do have an old course tall fescue), but if your really against that, I'd say to overseed it with a turf type fescue. Go to a local garden center for better seed....See MoreChessie
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agodchall_san_antonio
5 years agoGreg gman997
5 years agomishmosh
5 years agoChessie
5 years agomishmosh
5 years agoRose M
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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Tom