buying a rehabbed house, dishwasher and gas range need to switch posit
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Yet another "choosing a gas range" posting & questions
Comments (38)I can only comment on the Bluestar RNB, which seems not to be a front-runner for you. But as you ask about the hot doors . . . it just has not been any sort of problem for us. The door gets very warm under certain conditions, and you might be surprised if you were to fall against it with palms flat. Surprised, but not injured at all -- our door just doesn't get hot enough to burn somebody. Moreover, if I'm baking, or roasting (or braising, etc.) while working at the range, I'm not especially aware of heat coming through the door at all. And the oven door handle stays just fine -- don't need a potholder to open the door at all. Our two younger kids had just turned 9 when we bought the range and I'd had similar questions, and had them resolved before we bought place our order. They've never had problems getting getting burnt, and neither has our small dog. Of course other kids may be younger, and things happen, but I don't see a danger from the door itself. With our range, a little kid could fall against the glass door, or poke it with a finger while looking at cookies, and not be injured at all. Startled, perhaps, but not injured. The far more significant risk seems to me to be common to any range at all: little kids need to know that a stove is not a toy, but something to be careful about. They need to know that they oughtn't to go crashing into it or leap up and grab things. They need to know that whether you buy a BS, or CC, or NXR, or GE, or a 20 year-old whirlpool from a garage sale. An open flame is an open flame; a hot coil is a hot coil; and a pot full of boiling water can scald anybody....See MoreLooking at Gas Only 30" Slide in Ranges; I need help.
Comments (47)I struggle to give credibility to any one that can't substantiate their claim with a photo OK, here's the problem with this. Nobody really cares whether you "give them credibility", whether you believe their experience is true or not, or whether you believe Wolf chipping is an issue or not. Certainly not enough to go digging through their hard drive looking for a picture to post just for you. Particularly since your posts frankly seemed a bit rude. I understand you may not have meant them to come off that way, but they did. Maybe if you'd asked in a different way, you would have gotten pictures. Such as "I'm wondering what the chipping looks like and what areas it tends to happen in. Would you mind posting a picture?" instead of "I think you're lying. Prove me wrong with a picture." All people are trying to do here is share their experiences, and then let others make their own buying decisions based on that information. Most new posters who join these forums and ask questions are pretty trusting, because spammers and people with conflicts of interest generally don't last very long here. If someone replies to a question with their genuine experience with a product, good or bad, the original poster may ask them follow up questions to get more details or clarify things - but since they're grateful for the time that person took to write their responses, they aren't going to thank them by grilling them for evidence that they actually own the product or have/have not had issues. If you don't find the information relevant to you, and want to believe that we're biased against Wolf, are "fear mongering", and that a company like that would NEVER allow something like this to happen, etc. Then go ahead! Nobody is trying to stop you from thinking that, and it's no skin off anyone's back that you bought a Wolf and like it (many people here were in that same boat at one point!). But when you then basically accuse people of making up stories about problems and being too stupid to use an oven properly without the enamel flaking off - you can expect a response. Still, of course it's a public site that anyone can join, and people with agendas occasionally make their way onto it. However, if someone is suspicious of a member, it's usually super easy to spot those people by giving their profile a quick glance. If they just joined the forum, and all their posts are strongly positive or negative about a particular product or service, chances are there's something fishy going on. However, if they have been posting here for years about a great variety of different topics, they probably know what they're talking about and are just trying to help. And, another way to spot someone genuine is to see if their opinions change over time! Again, most of the people here who criticize Wolf about this issue had nothing but good things to say about their ovens before they ran into trouble, and that can be verified by looking at their posting history. Complaining about a product failure 2.5 years after warranty expiration is not terribly reasonable In most cases, I would agree with this. Stuff happens. If something like an ignitor or even a control board happens to go bad not too long after the warranty expires, it may not be the most fun situation to be in, but it could have just as easily happened if you'd bought a different brand, and engaging in online tirades against the manufacturer would not be the most productive thing to do. Just suck it up, fix it, and move on with life. However, replacing an oven liner isn't like replacing an ignitor or a control board. It's the equivalent of performing open heart surgery on a range. The fact that it is more economical in most cases for the manufacturer to replace rather than repair is very telling. And when there seems to be a pattern of the issue happening to more than just 1 or 2 people - it's concerning, and I would argue complaining about it is quite reasonable. Wolf seems to recognize this as well, and although they won't admit that the chipping can actually be a safety hazard, or that it is a widespread problem - they have been known to confess on the phone that it is a recurring issue. In the first "problem" link above I see an oven that was repaired to the satisfaction of the owner, much to the dismay of some. Well, this particular oven was still in warranty, so of course it was repaired to the satisfaction of the owner. It better have been! There has never been any question about Wolf being willing to honor their warranty. They have been said by many to be polite and efficient when dealing with warranty repairs or replacements. The questions start to arise after the warranty expires. Like any manufacturer, Wolf is not obligated to do any goodwill repairs or replacements out of warranty. However, due to the price premium they charge and the advertising they do, people expect more out of them than other manufacturers. In many cases, they have lived up to this expectation, like in the links I gave. Promptly replacing products, in or out of warranty, and after several replacements, if there was still chipping, buying back the oven without resistance or fighting. But the problem is that they are inconsistent. In other cases, they have unfortunately not lived up to it, like in the cases of wekick and the Kails. Both were left with unusable products in under 10 years of use (under 5 years in the case of wekick) with no option to sell back their ovens, or repair without spending thousands with no guarantee it wouldn't happen again. When there are that many reports of this exact same issue happening (and evidently countless other incidents out there that didn't make it onto the internet or didn't even get noticed by the owner), that doesn't seem fair. In the third link I see an actual problem that's from metal fatigue. Does that really matter? I have used self clean ovens of various brands for decades and never run into any issues with the cavity becoming damaged. Besides, the Wolf chipping has been reported in units that have not had self clean run even once. That was her third oven, and the two before it had met the same fate. After three defective ovens in less than a year, can you blame someone for not wanting to try another? Yes, this was one of the cases where Wolf did the right thing, but again, with so many failures that early on, they kind of had to....See MoreHelp me choose new range - gas vs induction
Comments (26)The comments about ten-power settings got me musing on the subject and about Amy's initial question about logarithmic power controls. Here's where that lead me. Nobody really has logarithmic power controls, but there can be power settings spaced to sort of approximate a logarithmic curve -- a number of settings at the low end with only a couple of additional points needed to define the steep side of the curve for really high heat. In theory, that can be done with a ten-step power curve and some folks do find 10 power settings fine for what and how they cook. Others do not. Is anybody else here old enough to remember the GE stoves and cooktops from 50's and 60's with ten mechanical pushbuttons for heat settings? Those pushbuttons were literally "digital" controls, meaning that you punched them with one of your digits. GE sold a lot of them for a couple of decades, so some people found them adequate. Some did not. For the current digital electronic ten-step controls, others here besides loonlakecamp have reported satisfaction with a ten step set-up. Others, like me, would find them inconvenient for my cooking with, say, my pressure cookers. With only ten heat level steps, I would have to be constantly switching settings to maintain the correct pressure. Power setting "1" might be too low, setting "2" might be too high. Switch to 1 for a while until the pressure drops a little too low, switch to 2 for a while until it gets a little too high, then back to 1, etc., etc. With in-between settings, I avoid that annoyance. You don't use pressure cookers? Then maybe having in-between steps won't matter to you. This is just one example of how cooking styles can differ and how more settings can matter to one cook and not to another. Much fuss is sometimes made about the supposedly infinite adjustablity of gas burners. As a practical matter, though, we mostly try to get the burner to the same relatively few settings. Searing is pretty much searing, isn't it? If you deep fat fry, how often would you care if if the oil were at 352° instead of 350°? But maybe somebody is working with sugar syrups where, say, it might matter if a syrup is at 325° and not 360° and then maybe it matters if the induction burner only has ten settings. That said, the subject of induction power settings and controls can be more complicated than just the number of settings. The need for finding "in-between" steps for induction cooking can reflect two different aspects of ways that manufacturers design induction burner controls. One consideration is the power cycling that all induction burners use for settings of less than full power. A technical term for this is "pulse width modulation. or "PWM." It is the same kind of thing a microwave does for low heat levels---momentary pulses of power that average out at a particular heat level. With most PICs as well as some brands of induction cooktops and ranges, the PWM is pretty crude. I've seen this somewhere described as firing up the burner for a second or two of omigosh hot and then switching totally off for three or four seconds. While these pulses average out at a certain heat level the timing can be problematic for, say, the srambled eggs that Amy mentioned at the outset. Combine that kind of "low frequency" PWM with the crude power controls found on many PICs, and you could have a reason that Amy would find herself wanting steps in-between power level "1" and "2" for scambling eggs. Some full size induction ranges and cooktops work this way. I noticed a lot of pulsing at the low heat settings on the Maytag induction range I saw demoed several years ago when I was stove shopping. From past threads on PWM, I gather than Whirlpool's induction ranges and cooktops (which include Maytag and Kitchenaid brands) have used crude PWM. For searching out past threads here on this subject try a search strings like "induction + pulsing + gardenweb" and "induction + cycling + gardenweb." A few of the expensive PICs (Cooktek, Garland, Vollrath) and many full size ranges and cooktops use much higher frequency PWM. Instead switching on and off for a second or more at time, the power switches on and off many times per second. The higher frequency of switching yields much finer power control that more closely approximates a steady heat level. The other design aspect that can lead to wanting "in-between" settings is in how the engineers program the electronic controllers to space the power settings on the appliance you are using --- that's the kind of logarithmic curve I thnk Amy may been thinking about when she posed her question in the original post. . For manufacturers, the least costly controls use simple linear spacing. Setting "1" would use the PWM to average 10% power, setting "2" would be 20%, etc. Even with a high quality PWM, though, 9 or 10 linear settings may be too crude, A thing most induction users discover pretty quickly is that they do most of their cooking in the low to medium range settings. The highest setting can be used for boiling. One or two medium high settings takes care of high heat applications like searing. There seem to be three strategies for induction manufacturers to address the crudeness. One is to add half-steps between the numbered power settings. The other is to program the stove's controllers to put more steps in the low to medium range and fewer in the high ranges. The third strategey combines the first two. Without using the particular induction stove or cooktop, it can be hard to find out whether the particular unit was designed to use one or the other or some combination of them. In my own somewhat limited experience, it seems that the GE induction appliances and Electrolux's Frigidaire/Kenmore ranges seemed to use a modified-half step approach with some concentration of steps but also using half steps for finer control. The Electrolux-branded models use a slightly different approach with quarter-steps at the lower power ends and fewer steps at the high end. Miele cooktops seem to use a similar kind of mix with the option of switching on more steps. I'm not sure how BSH (which includes Bosch) handles this except that their induction appliances manuals show that half-steps are available. The Samsung freeestanding induction ranges seemed to follow the GE model (19 half steps). The reports about Samsung's ten-step "Chef Collection" model seem to conflict, some seeming to say that stepping is linear, some hinting that the settings may be skewed to the lower end. There is a yet another strategy which is the near infinite stepping of of potentiometer-like controls. These control systems seem to be very expensive so, AFAIK, they are used only for the commercial Garland/Manitowiac PICS and maybe the new Miele induction range have this. I say "maybe" for the Miele because there is nothing about it in the product literature and the display shows only whole-number settings, but a couple of posters here -- livinginseattle is the name I recall -- have reported finding that the knobs can be turned to provide fine gradations of "in-between" settings. Some folks would find that ideal. Then the question becomes: how much are you willing to spend for the "ideal" (and are there other design compromises that have to accept in order to get that ideal function for the burners?)...See MoreNeed help choosing Refrigerator, Gas Oven , Dishwasher
Comments (21)I asked an appliance repairman we've used in the past about brand recommendations for a fridge and his response was "don't buy one now, wait 3 or 4 years". He feels the manufacturers are struggling with issues related to complying with energy standards and that all of the brands have reliability problems. I'm talking about medium level brands (GE, Whirlpool, Kitchenaid, LG, Samsung) and not the high end brands. He said if we are set on buying one he'd recommend an american made brand like the Whirlpool family of brands or GE due to better parts availability and also recommended buying a 5 year warranty on it. I finally decided on GE (fridge stove and microwave) and found that Lowes has the lowest price on a 5 year warranty. Actually bought from a different vendor (local appliance store) that matched total price including the 5 year warranty on the fridge....See MoreA A
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