How do I sound proof my ceiling to eliminate boards creaking?
katrinaschiller
5 years ago
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Sound proofing for Band Room
Comments (15)To soundproof your room you will need to use a combination of materials. The following video link is a brief demonstration on blocking sound: http://acousticsfirst.com/educational-videos-the-barrier-and-the-bell.htm We use a mass loaded vinyl called BlockAid. (http://acousticsfirst.com/blockaid-vinyl-sound-barrier.htm) This can be added to structural composites to increase mass without loosing valuable space and can be used in conjunction with resilient channel, isolation hangers and acoustical sealant. Always line cavities with insulation. This prevents resonant frequencies from ringing in the cavities and increases the STC (Sound Transmission Loss). To keep structural noise from transmitting through the structure, be sure to isolate materials using resilient clips or resilient channels. Sound and noise can be transmitted structurally through any materials that touch without some type of resilient material between them. Once your structure is complete, you can use acoustical treatments within your music room to absorb sound and improve the quality of sound in the room. Even though acoustical panels do not block sound, they will help reduce the overall sound pressure in the room, much like the fiberglass batting that is used with the barrier material in the video. A drywall ceiling may sag if the contractor did not use drywall meant for ceiling applications. Be sure to check with material supplies to confirm that you have the correct material for your application. Here is a link that might be useful: Soundproofing Demonstration...See MoreWater / Ant / Earthquake / Sound Proof a Kitchen
Comments (11)There are automatic water shutoff leak detectors. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/washingmachineshutoffvalve.html And others. I don't know how well they work. There are drip pans for clothes washers, they are common enough. Finding them in other widths is hard. Here is a 24'' one. I've known people (three) who had huge amounts of water damage to their homes from water leaks. In one case, it actually was the dishwasher. But in each case, it was far more water than the couple gallons that a any drip pan can catch - I mean like the fire department had to come and pump out their basement. I have heard some cases on KF where floods damaged kitchens, but I don't know if that was 1 gallon or 1,000. http://www.floodsaver.com/panFAQs.html The cabinets are not going anywhere in an earthquake. Dishes may dump out of the upper cabinets - this happened to some of my friends in some SoCal earthquakes. Get positive latches on the uppers if you are worried - or just figure that once every 20 years, you will replace some dishes. If you don't live in California or other region with frequent earthquakes, stop worrying. When the ''Big One'' comes in your city, you won't care about your dishes. Noise - go to the Appliance Forum and find a long thread titled something like ''does anyone make a quiet refrigerator''. All kinds of people in various degrees of upset that they can hear the ice drop in their refrigerator. I guess none of them have kids, live in the city, have a snoring spouse, etc. Their experiences and recommendations to achieve silencitude appear contradictory and ineffectual. But when I need a good chuckle, I re-read that thread. As for ants, we have an ant problem sometimes. I find that if you don't leave bread crumbs, Nutella smears, sugar spills, jelly blobs on your counter, you have few if any ant problems. Unfortunately, we do, or at least my kids do. It is often weather-dependent too. 1/8'' will make no difference, unless your cabinets are actually levitating, there will be a route for one of nature's most remarkable creatures....See MoreSuggestions for Sound Proofing a Wall, Please
Comments (10)Sorry that I wasn't clear. We don't need to be opening those doors. I really don't want to remove them though. My DIL likes the look of the French Doors in her kitchen, so I don't want to remove or replace them. I thought that maybe we could leave white curtains in place,to look nice from their side, then build a small, thin bump out where the doors are on our side, thereby, we could take it down in the future if need be. I'm thinking maybe using a cheaper plywood, rather than drywall, but have not priced anything out yet. Or maybe putting bookcases there, but still not sure how that would help with the soundproofing. Just trying to keep some costs down right now, so I didn't want to do any "major construction" yet find something to work for sound-proofing in the meantime. Now that our granddaughters are out of school, we can hear them more than we thought that we would. My DH is now working from home, so we need to come up with a solution until we can make an office for him in the basement. TIA & thank so much for responding!...See MoreSound proof between floors, new construction
Comments (31)Let's actually set this right. There are NOT three different methods of sound transmission, that is either way over-simplified or over-complicated, depending on the view that you want to take. Building designers have created a checklist to deal with building design and sound transmission. But that is because building designers have enough stuff to deal with without getting into the physics of mechanical waves when designing a building. There is exactly one method of sound transmission in buildings, on earth, in space, etc. Sound is a mechanical wave, or energy that travels through matter by disturbing it. More specifically even, it is the displacement of matter from its equilibrium position and that displacement as well as the rebounding of material is what moves sound through all matter, including air and walls, it is also the lack of matter to disturb that stops sound from moving through outer space. Sound is easy to understand as work, as sound encounters various forms of matter it expends effort to move through the material, even air, that is why decibels are lessened over distance. There are really only two ways to reduce sound, require more work and convert the work (technically there are three, but locate your basement in outer space seems a bit extreme). More mass means sound has to work harder to move the material, not unlike throwing a boulder compared to throwing a pebble. So one simple way to reduce sound transmission is to add more mass. The other is to convert sound to other forms of energy, usually heat energy. This is what resilient materials such as rubber and cork do. Think hitting someone with a bat versus hitting someone with a foam pole. ---------- Now all of this may seem immaterial to the discussion at hand but it really isn't. Building designers, especially when designing commercial buildings, have broken sound transmission into three very broad categories that they need to address in the design of a building. However, not every situation requires considering those things as they are presented, nor are those three things adequate in other situations. The final, and really more important point for homeowners, is the cost of effective design versus the cost of effective treatment. No one who actually works in theater installation and design really spends their day looking after these "three sound transmission characteristics" of building design. And no one creating sound isolation booths for recording studios would think addressing those three things are remotely adequate. I have both a home theater and a sound isolation booth in my house. There are thousands of installers, and hundreds of home theater and listening room designers who all use the same four steps for sound proofing: (1) sealing, (2) adding mass, (3) decoupling, and (4) dampening (note: that dampening is often separated into dampening and absorbing for ease of understanding). Any approach using these four steps, even in a cost effective manner, will adequately address sound transmission for most needs. Just to be clear it absolutely deals with airborne, flanking and impact transmission, it is well detailed in the material I directed the OP to. So any assertion that no one has dealt with that, is absolutely wrong. If you are building a sound isolation booth for a home recording studio, this is a good start, but by no means complete. However, you are going to have to get into specific attenuation at that point, at which time I would advise visiting the gearslutz.com or SoundonSound.com sites to get more information....See More
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