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Removing floor glue from new hardwood floors

HU-9430732412670473

5 years ago

Hello,

My parents just had new hardwood floors installed about two weeks ago. The people who installed them said the glue marks that were left on the new floors would wear off over time. My parents, not knowing any better, accepted that answer. However, in looking into this more it seems that true professionals would not leave the amounts of glue that these people did. It is throughout the whole house and very obvious. In reading, it also seems that the longer the glue sits, the more damage is done and eventually the glue may wear off but there will also be a permanent spot. Its very unfortunate that these people left the new floors in this condition.

I have been looking at ways to try and remove these glue spots, and it seems Bostik adhesive remover is the most popular. But I wanted to get some opinions before jumping the gun. I also want to make sure that whatever method is used will not damage the new floors. So any information would be helpful and much appreciated!

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Comments (2)

PRO
G & S Floor Service
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
It's all about chemicals. There are different types of adhesives: moisture cure, polyurethane, latex and silane (polymer) base adhesive. Find out what type of adhesive was used. Use a adhesive remover suggested by the glue manufacturer for that product type. It will be formulated specifically for their adhesives.
PRO
Johnson Flooring Co Inc
5 years ago
G&S said it all except to be sure that the adhesive didn't etch the surface. If it did there will still be marks after the adhesive is removed. That said, you can try mineral spirits first without harming the finish (assuming it's urethane finish). If a customer calls me and says there's glue on the floor I send someone out to clean it.
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I have an 1890's that someone had glued 1970's shag carpet to oak hardwood floors. Also had a maple hardwood floor in the kitchen with several layers of linoleum glued down with the black adhesive. After trying sanding, adhesive remover, paint stripper and scraping someone told me the solution that does work! It will sound counterintuitive but you mix a strong solution of TSP cleaner in a bucket of hot water. Then mop this solution onto the floor keeping it wet for 40 min or so. The TSP solution will turn the glue to mud which can be easily scraped off. When nothing else worked, this took care of the problem. If you leave the oak flooring wet too long, it can warp, but I used this method in 3 rooms and then was able to sand and finish and they turned out beautiful. The maple floor cleaned up beautifully as well! Attempting to sand the glue mess off the floor will fill up sandpaper sheets almost immediately - the TSP method works!!
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Laying the new floor in the same direction as the old floor is not the normal way to go about this. In the building industry, it is more common to see layers that are staggered or "bricked". In other words if layer #1 is laid in a North-South direction, then layer #2 (the top layer) is laid perpendicular to it in an East-West presentation. If you want to run the new flooring in the same direction as the old, you will want to use some underlayment (plywood) over top of the old floor so that you can maintain the "staggered" or "bricked" layering system. That is one way to maintain the North-South presentation. Please work with hardwood flooring professionals who have some experience renovating these old gems. They will have seen what worked....and what didn't. Their experience will be invaluable on a project like yours.
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You wipe it off while it is WET. That is an "as you go" type of job. If the glue is dry, you need to reach out to Bona to find out what removers they recommend. Then you reach out to the wood flooring manufacturer to ensure the remover is ALLOWED with their floor. Is this a polyurethane finish on the floor? If it is, you are welcome to try some rubbing alcohol on the glue. You can try a SMALL amount (on the tip of a Q-Tip) in an out-of-the-way spot. See if it works. If this is an hardwax oil finish then you need to reach out to the manufacturer of the FLOOR...'cause this could get weird. And BTW: this 'whitish' look you are seeing is the look you will have to get used to. This is what dust/dirt/footprints/sock prints will look like on an ebony floor. You will need to know what cleaners to use for the next 15-25 years.
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