If you have vacuumed and mopped, and you still have a dust/dirt film, I would mop it one more time, Changing water often. So your not just smearing dirt around. Know what I mean? If you run your trowel back and forth over the area, instead of just pushing a blob of glue, it will mix the dust in with the glue, and "key" to the concrete. LOL, seriously.

Wow that is a "bubble-gum in a long haired cat's fur" type of mess! Yikes. The quietwalk was supposed to be the vapour barrier. Ok...it happens. Someone tried to double up on the moisture resistance. In theory a moisture resistant adhesive should have been enough....but someone decided to double down and glue down the QuietWalk and then glue the wood to the QuietWalk. The issue is the quiet walk is not strong enough to 'stay together' when you pry up the wood. This is a mess a hardened professional would cringe to take on. A DIYer is going to struggle mightily. G&S offers great advice. The beer being the MOST important part ;-)

You will need a whole home dehumidifier to get this to work with wide plank. Even with a narrow plank (like 2.25" wide) you will need humidity control. Engineered hardwood will 'help' but it won't fix the household issue of humidity (too high is just as bad as too low). You will need to seal the crawl space (properly) and add in the whole home dehumidifier. The HVAC system *might be able to handle an 'add on' or you might need a full upgrade (how old is the home?). Once you have the house all happy and healthy and the dehumidifier working/drying out the house for a few weeks, you can then find out where the house likes to 'sit' re: humidity levels. You will need to find the homes equilibrium. Once you have that figure out (could take a full summer/winter/spring cycle) you can then plan the best way forward. Lets pretend you take the time and the effort to seal the crawl space AND add on the whole home dehumidifier (this can be several thousand all by itself...little FYI). Let's pretend you get everything sitting around 45% humidity (swings between 40%-50% would be the perfect range....nothing bigger than a 10% swing in humidity please). Now you start testing the subfloor moisture level. It must drop into the correct range. Once it is dry enough, you can bring in wood to acclimate in the house for a few weeks. As you can see this is going to take some time. And it is HIGHLY dependent on what your home is capable of. My suggestion is to work with the extra expensive rift and quarter sawn product white oak. This can be 30%-50% more expensive but it is worth it because of it's stability. If a 5" wide (which is considered 'wide' = glue assist) you will be looking at a $8/sf product to begin with. Now add in the rift/quarter sawn price and we can sit at $12/sf. Labour is going to be $3/sf (at least). Subfloor preparation is extra (I always tell people to plan $2-$4/sf for subfloor prep....especially if you are removing carpet). If you move into the 7" rift/quarter sawn you could be looking at $15-$20/sf. The 7" DEFINITELY requires the 'full glue spread'. You can nail it too if you like...but the full spread is DEFINITELY needed. That adds another $1/sf for glue and another $1/sf for labour. Are you ready for a $25/sf total cost? Oh...and you are not guaranteed 'no cupping'. It is greatly reduced...but not guaranteed. 'Cause nothing says trouble like a 3 day electrical black-out due to hurricanes or tornados. Remember: pay the extra price for rift and quarter sawn. You will be thankful that you did. The width is going to be up to your home's ability to offer 45% humidity AND your ability to finance the whole deal.

Traditionally (ie. by a pro who is paid to do things well/properly) the damaged substrate is removed and replaced. Patching is possible if there are minor spots that just need 1-3mm of fill. If the whole thing has a shredded surface then it is probably easier/faster to remove and replace with the same thickness. As G&S suggests: photos please.