Has anyone ever removed glued down Hardwood? Any advice
Wayne Emerson
3 years ago
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Wayne Emerson
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Portofino Hardwood Flooring - Anyone ever heard of this?
Comments (10)A lot of large distributors have private label lines of their own produced overseas at a lower price point to offer a option to consumers at a price point lower than flooring from the Big 4 manufacturers. The large manufacturers have so much tied up in marketing their pricing is much higher but private label lines are often marketed only as an alternative to the brand names at a lower price point. I'd guess that is what you are looking at. The distributor most likely carries the warranty themselves. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, as many times the off-brand quality can be as good as the brand name products, you just have to make sure they stand behind it which is what you are doing. I'd ask the retail store what their experience has been in dealing with claims from product that comes from Golden State....See MoreAnyone with really dark hardwood floors - need advice!!
Comments (10)Thanks everyone for the advice! mfrog - I've read about the aniline dye and am thinking that's probably what we need, but I'm a bit wary since the info I've seen is a bit mixed (about whether to use on floors) and the flooring company seems to have never heard of it, therefore would they really do a good job?? pluckymama - I think the photo actually makes the stain look a bit better than in person, but the brown is more reddish and we really want a blacker look (but without actually just painting the floor!). But the stain sample is supposedly done exactly the way the floor would be finished with poly and everything, so would basically look just like that. cocontom - I have seen some other dark floor threads on here - thanks! I think we will investigate other floor companies, but I'm afraid that since the REALLY dark floors don't seem to be very common, most companies will probably tell us the same thing. I've heard similar things in the past about Minwax - they do use other stains though as well. Kat - ask me if I regret it after I've lived with the dark floors for a while - haha! Of course, that's assuming I ever get them! Luckily, we've only paid the company for installing so far + a small additional amount that we would insist they reimburse us if they can't provide the service we requested. I'm sure when we originally said ebony they thought they would just use the usual ebony stain and it wouldn't be an issue since most people don't want floors that are so dark. I tried to stress to them that I didn't think the stain would be dark enough, and sure enough, it's not. palimpsest - do you have a photo of your floor? Would love to see it! Everything I've read does state that the grain needs to be "popped" with water, but I'm not sure even that will help entirely. Here's a photo that's kind of what I'm looking for (maybe not quite as shiny): I'm hoping we come up with some solution before I drive myself completely crazy and they have to put me away! Then I'd never even get to enjoy the new space after all this torture :)...See MoreHas anyone done REALLY light colored hardwood floors?
Comments (8)We did a natural maple floor, no stain, no pickling, nothing...just a clear Swedish finish. They look very similar to Donka's floors in the previous posting. We have a modern house, gutted the main area to create a large open floorplan, and used the maple in the kitchen/family/dining areas, plus the stairs down to the entry landing. I find the lighter color really hides the dust and dirt. You only see it when the sun is coming in at a steep angle, like late afternoon. We had a smooth coat Jack Russell that shed like crazy, and you couldn't see the hairs at all unless the light was just right. I love the ease of cleaning...I vacuum whenever necessary with the wide flat floor brush attachment, and use the Bona wood floor cleaner with microfiber mop once a month to get rid of any grease film from the kitchen. It's been about 3 years since the renovation and the floors still look fantastic. The only thing I've noticed is a big color difference where we have had area rugs. Maple will change considerably on exposure to light. And the light floors allowed us to use darker warmer colors throughout the house and on the walls....See MoreInstalling hardwood over existing hardwood
Comments (3)The answer could be "Yes". It could be "No" or it could be "maybe...it depends". The trick with this is that new hardwood does not like sitting over top of OLD finishes...like polyurethane. And new hardwood needs FLAT. So the chances are VERY high that you need to SAND DOWN your old hardwoods (to remove the finish AND to flatten any obvious areas of concern). That should cost you $2/sf. Now the fun part...getting patch down where it is needed. It is possible but old hardwoods don't normally like to have concrete patch put down on them. They can. But they aren't fond of it. The cement patch often cracks and disintegrates as those old floors move. You will still need patch = $1/sf (on the LOW end). The other fun thing is: you probably have to install the floors perpendicular to the old floors....which will be AGAINST the installation instructions/warranty (most hardwoods must be installed perpendicular to the joists...which would be your OLD hardwoods...but the NEW one's would be perpendicular to THOSE = parallel to your joists = against all "Best Practices"). The way around this = DIAGONAL (lay it at a 45deg. angle). This should increase your WASTE into the 15% range = 15% more expensive than anticipated. So if you add up all the "trouble" you will go to, you will be paying about the same or MORE to do this. Of course you could throw down some plywood over top the old hardwood = go ahead as a normal install. But that puts you too high---so your ONE option to do this "cheaply" is not on your list. Go ahead and remove those old hardwoods (I'm assuming they are so OLD that they cannot be sanded and refinished). Lay new plywood and then install the new hardwood. The cost to do this properly should add $2-$3/sf (labour and plywood included). If you do this the "cheater" way, it should cost you $2-$6/sf (that includes the diagonal install with extra waste) and lose you your warranty. After all that money for the hardwood and install, that would be a sad state of affairs....See Moresambah006
3 years agosambah006
3 years agoWayne Emerson
3 years agoCreative Tile Eastern CT
3 years agoG & S Floor Service
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoWayne Emerson thanked G & S Floor ServiceWayne Emerson
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoWayne Emerson
3 years agoWayne Emerson
3 years ago
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