If you recess the vanity into the closet it might make sense to make the entry to the closet next to the vanity (swinging into the closet) and close up the door to the bedroom. You'd gain wall space in the bedroom, and wouldn't have two doors in a row, and it may make closet layout easier. If one person gets up earlier than the other they can get completely showered and dressed without reentering the bedroom.

Stack everything you want/need to put back into the space (as though it was on those shelves) and see how much space you actually need, and how much space between the shelves will actually work best. I would definitely make it so there isn't anything stored on the floor. I would replace the last shelf (the one with the red plastic tub) and move it up a few inches (just enough to go over the piece that juts out from the wall) and use a corner-style shelf (from the same material) to get more storage from that area on 2 walls, instead of just one. Then I would place one more corner shelf lower than that shelf. If space is a premium you can use narrower shelves than the ones you currently have in there on the two corner shelves. You may be able to take the shelf you would be removing for the 1 or 2 additional corner units on the bottom, and put it up higher, about 12" under the top shelf. The top shelf is often a waste of space since it's difficult to easily get to, so use that space wisely for things you don't need very often. -Grainlady

What will be in your closet? Will you have a dresser or chest in the bedroom, or is this it? Is it for one or for two people? What do you wear for work? For at home? Do you garden? Do sports or gym? Do you accessorize with textiles or jewelry? Will you keep all that in the closet, too? Without knowing any of that, I agree with Annkh: hanging space on the back wall only will make it feel the most spacious. Use the two walls at the front for shelves and drawers. On the side walls, have a full-length mirror on one, and flat storage on the other. By flat storage I mean hooks or a rack system for jewelry and accessories. On the sides of the shelves and drawers at the front, you might want hooks for your robe and favorite lounging sweater. You don't have a small closet at all! But no matter the size of closet, how you use it matters.

Second and third the others that have asked for dimensioned drawings and pics of all 4 walls. An idea of your budget would also be helpful. If its I-have-to-live-with-this minimal, then: --Can you do underbed boxes? The Ikea STUK series offers several options that are semi-rigid (can add dividers, too) and zip shut in a 7" tall size. Handles and smooth fabric make them easy to pull out. Great for things that don't need folding, or tees if you're patient enough to roll, or out of season clothes. --Can you steal space under or on top of the existing desk? A set of stackable boxes on top or Elfa/Elfa-like wire drawers underneath could provide additional storage there. --Can you move the rails in the existing closet? If so I'd remove the long shelf on the top, push that rail up, and then move bottom rail up too --a full depth space at the bottom is much more useful; will accomodate a STUK box or two rows of shoes. I have a Victorian with very small closets, so I have my clothes stratified by length, and the rail heights set accordingly. If you have room, put the shelf back in at the bottom to separate your hanging clothes from your shoes or whatever else you put there. --If you can get bins/baskets/boxes close in size to the shelves on the narrow side, do that. Otherwise, consider putting at least one hanging rail in there, too (can be regular height for full length garments, or short to hold pants folded over bar hangers like those from the Container Store). --Use thin hangers and get one or two more garments on each rail. If you have just a little money to spend, do some or all of the above and: --Measure the space along the wall between the edge of the single closet door when its open and the end of that wall. Depending on how much room you have, a bookcase with storage (the narrow Ikea Billy --16" wide-- will accomodate Bullig baskets or Drona fabric boxes, or put a door on it and use it for shoes) or the Kallax cube and boxes to go with. Great for underwear/socks and rolled tees. --Consider a door-casing height shelf along the full length of the wall at the foot of the bed and maybe wrapping over the door corner as well. If you can get a 10-12" of space on top of that shelf you can line it with tidy storage boxes with lids for everything you don't need on a daily basis. If you have enough money to upgrade your furniture and are willing to do so: --Underbed drawers can be great! Especially for things that are washed often like underwear socks and tees. For stuff you don't need to access daily, I prefer lift beds; then things can be put in appropriately dust-excluding bags/boxes. --Consider an L-shaped wardrobe; PAX options at Ikea range from about $600 to $1400 although I see some parts are currently hard to get. I personally would upgrade to a semi-custom wardrobe before changing out the bed (especially if the bed accomodates boxes underneath) because it lookes like you are box-spring adapted and most drawer and lift beds don't take box springs.