I have used pipe to level sand bases. Do you know how to use google to find magazine/ u tube information?

The degree of pitch to the surface depends on the surface texture. A heavy texture needs more pitch than a smooth one. I can't predict how smoothly and in plane you'll construct your patio, but if it's reasonably smooth, 1/4" per foot sounds like overkill. I'd settle for half that. I presume it's going on a sand base? Consider that each joint will "leak" so that helps your drainage. The main objective is to eliminate puddling.

It doesn't matter that the pitch it diagonal, square or in line, just that it exists. But it does matter that the pitch is in the general direction of the pitch of the surroundings. Use stake and strings to create a level line. Then measure down from that taught string line in order to gauge the pitch. 8' is not far so you could use a lumber straight edge to set a level on to determine level. Or, you could use a line level -- a cheap plastic level that hangs on a taught string line.

2" over 8 ft isn't going to be perceptible to the user, if you're worried it'll feel like sitting on a ski slope. We generally only go below 1/4" per foot if it's under cover or a VERY smooth and consistent surface, like broom finish concrete or porcelain pavers. Pavers and natural stone, you're better off sticking to 1/4 bubble because of joints and imperfections in the paving material. Plus, if this is your first paver install, it's not going to be perfect. Give yourself a fudge factor.

A few years ago I attended a talk on permeable pavement. What's interesting is I think everyone in the industry has always assumed that the joints between pavers allow water to exit (myself included), but the engineer speaking showed us test results where the joints in a standard (impervious) paver install allowed less than 3% water infiltration. I wouldn't count on the joints as your insurance.

re: finding the slope, what Yard said. If you can pitch it so it's only sloping from one long edge to the long edge opposite (versus pointy corner to pointy corner) it'll be easier.

Given your small space, once the pit is created, I'd just use an eight-foot 2x4 (that's straight) and set a level on top as a guide to creating proper pitch.

After you get the pit dug, if you need to use a level to double check plane, it is easier to use a regular carpenter's level sitting on top of a straight board (which extends the length the level is able to read) as you can pick it up and move it around and then get it out of your way. Whereas a string may not read just where you need read. I think it's OK for you to "eyeball" the work while you are going it, but then afterward double check with a level to make sure it meets specs.

Patio is done it aint perfect but it is a lot better than the eyesore we had before. Question is should I use a polymeric sand or an all purpose sand between the joints?

I have heard the polysand leaves a haze and its really bad on red bricks which is what we have here. The bricks are the red holland concrete paver variety with the ribs or space on the side to create a fixed joint.

Thanks.

I would use any regular fine sand. If weeds sprouting becomes a problem later, you can include the patio in your Preen (pre-emergent herbicide) treatment (though it doesn't take as much since you're only treating joints), or spot spray with herbicide.