Have you tried driving around the neighborhood to see what roof colors houses with similar brick and siding colors have? Or cleaning and sanding the cedar to lighten it a little? I had the same color cedar shutters with a similar color brick and changed from a brown to a Timberline Weathered Wood roof. Once the shutters were sanded, it looked nice, but I ended up painting them anyway since I wanted a change. SW Oak Creek for shutters and SW Riverway for door. I think the HGTV Neutral Nuance color palette might offer some good options for color schemes. Or try going to any paint store and looking at the exterior color combos that they put together. I also think that the GAF Mission Brown would be a good roof color. It's a good compromise between Weathererd Wood and Barkwood.

Hi, What a cute little house! No worries, sometimes the coloring doesn't come out so well on the monitor and will look completely different in person. I can see why you chose the palette that you have though, it's exactly what I thought before I read your response. We have a 2 story colonial and the color of our siding is very similar to the color you have. We don't have any brick though, so we went with a Certainteed Roof in a medium toned charcoal color that has a touch of the brick color mixed in it. Without the brick the color looks great with the siding; our trim is all white as well. I almost think if you went with a lighter color on the trim it would offer a little more pop to the whole elevation. I know you didn't ask for this next suggestion but I think it would also look cute to have something flanking the door on each side. Usually people have lighting but if that's not possible, maybe you can hang some baskets on hangers or something. I think the brick just needs something more to help it blend in with the rest of the front. I love your landscape and how the gardens are layered with color. Very pretty.

Even though the original post is 5y old, I still found it very useful for our project. We are using Maibec modern profile in Thunder Sky (intense blue) with white trim so it is very similar to your project. I was wondering how the trim pieces on the window should go and I think it's mostly answered here. We are fortunate that my sister-in-law used the same siding and trim a few years ago (green and cream instead of our blue and white) and we have the same contractor. But her cottage is more 1920s style and using the Maibec Cove profile. We're trying to decide if we want the sill to project 1" outside of the side trim and if we do that, should the top and bottom trim match the sill? We're going to mock up some trim in scrap lumber to see how it will look. We have the Maibec trim now...nominal 4" (3-5/16") for side and bottom trim, nominal 5" (4.5") for top. Sill is 5/4" so under the window will be 1/4" wider than above the window. Today is Friday, Oct 1, 2021 and the trim starts going up on Monday. The cottage is called Cliffside, for reasons that are more apparent from the back. edit: I tried to include photos but they don't show up with the post.

I may seem harsh, but hopefully you take away some knowledge from this response. You should run from this contractor! I wrote more in my previous responses, then they listed in the details. With them being certified, they should know details are everything. There's much I see in their proposal I do not like at all. It protects them, not all parties involved. I'll list some, and in no particular order according to your proposal. Their payment schedule is a joke. It should read something like, 35% down at the end of the first working day and all materials are on site. With a copy of lien release given to the customer from suppliers ( no exceptions). The balance to be paid upon satisfactory completion. They state in "12", about a thorough clean up when job is done. This is outright ludicrous. A provision should be included in the contract about tear off, clean up, and securing the site everyday. Do not assume they will secure the site everyday against inclement weather. The clean up process should be continual during the day, with the debris walked across the roof and deposited in dumpster/dump truck. Your roof pitch is only around 4/12, so there shouldn't be debris on the ground during the day. Tarps burn grass in minutes in the hot sun, same with shingles. They should not be shoving the stuff off the roof. They should run a magnet (I still have a commercial type) everyday in the yard where debris had a chance going. The last thing you want you or your loved ones, or a pet stepping on nails. During tear-off, all existing roof covering fasteners should be pulled. Not hammered in. All sheathing should be refastened with proper fasteners. The sheathing comes loose when tearing off. All too often I see people just banging the fasteners back in. Look, the fasteners are not going any deeper, so it's useless to just have them sitting in the holes not holding the sheathing down. The decking should be broom swept, and air blown off before any ice guard, felt or new material is installed. You don't want bits and pieces telegraphing the new install. On #8, galvanized valley flashing. They must want to have open valleys on the front dormer. Galvanized valley flashing went out here in the 70's! No joke, You don't want rust spots in the valleys, or the discoloration. They sell preformed "W" valleys of aluminum in different colors, and copper if you want to throw money at it. Anyone using a metal valley should get it with the "W". I won't go into why. I always preferred a closed valley with cut back, or a closed woven valley. If a cut back is used, the installer must know which area of sheathing gets covered first. And there is more to know than just that. There is no mention of fastener size (length). All too often I was on jobs roofers wouldn't return to. Only to find they used 1" nails. Why? Because when you buy them, you get more per coil case or more per pound if hand nailing. Speaking of nail lengths, on their #10 for ridge vent. They need to use longer nails for cap over shingle vent. I would always use 2". I seen caps blow off because someone tried to cheap out and use the same 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" for the cap over vent. This is one of those tail light guarantees when not using proper length fasteners. Also it should be listed how far back they're cutting the sheathing for ridge vent. Too far and you got issues, some don't even cut it back and slap the ridge up there. It renders the vent useless. They should also list a saw depth. You don't want them cutting into the trusses. I say this because I've seen more than enough of botched work. Their #3. Drip on rakes only? Another short cut. There's absolutely no reason for this. The eaves should have drip also. The size of the face of the drip should be listed. You can get cheap drip edge with a 1" face, or get a nice looking 1-7/8 or there about. Never just on rake only. Also, it should be listed how far over the drip the shingle material hangs. Never should it be even with the drip, and never to the point of drooping over the drip. A 3/4" overhang is usually about right. However, this has to be determined in the field. Their #9. They write 6 nails per shingle. I could look up the requirement for this shingle, but I'm not. Generally there is 4, then when the shingle above it is placed, there will be 4 into the top of the previous shingle. So it gives you 8 per shingle. However, I have seen where people only place 3, so the total would be 6. This is incorrect according to manufacturers instructions. There are provisions for high wind applications, and roof styles such as Gambrel. You do place more fasteners, but the total fasteners holding the shingle will double since the next row also fastens the previous. I seen in your other thread, it appears to be an addition on the end of the structure. They did not address how they will step flash and possibly counter flash this area. Caulking/roof cement is unacceptable. It should be metal flashing, and not galvanized. I haven't looked everything they proposed, but I'm sure I wrote more than enough for you to run from this outfit.