Shop your roofing companies. I can't speak to price because I see that type of pricing here in S Fl but I know when you go North, the pricing drops substantially. The best way to know is to get several bids. Generally the roofer doesn't know how much sheathing needs to be replaced until the shingles are removed IME. You want to keep a buffer in your funds for more sheathing replacement than what is included in the bid.

Don't get all google eyed over someone having certification with a shingle manufacturer. This is coming from someone who held the top tier certification with 3 major manufacturers about 12-15 years ago. I firmly believe the hype is geared towards roofers, so they push the manufacturers product. I had certain products I really liked working with from different manufacturers and they had products I wouldn't install had they given them away. Things like ventilation and which type, soil stack boots and type, drip edge and size, water/ice shield and type, under- layment type, fastener size, and the most often forgotten step: DECK PREPARATION.

First and foremost, the shingle covering is just one part of the roofing system. And using even the best covering or the best everything doesn't mean a quality install. You'll have to trust me on this, but just because someone is certified, does not mean they know how to properly flash, install valleys, work penetrations, use the correct overhang of shingles on the perimeters, or anything else correctly. You also have proper ventilation and which ventilation to use for your project etc, etc.

I'd seen the pictures of your place in the remodeling forum. It appears there very well be 38+ square. In all honesty, should that be the case. 12K seems a bit light for a tear off of a single layer and for quality installation using quality materials. Back when I was in the trade, it ran approx. 350 per square on a pitch up to 6/12 including permit, disposal, etc.

you say a bit light, as in, this is a good deal? One of the reasons I wanted to go with this company is that the home inspection folks, who walk on roofs around here all the time, say they are the best. So I would go with them if I can find a color I like and this isn't an outlandish quote.

The only detail you provided was the shingle brand and type. Along with disposal fee. It's all the other details which matter. Do you have any more details? The quote should be detailed. The price really doesn't matter if you don't know the other material used or the details of installation.

I'm not understanding the disposal fee. Is this a fixed cost? It should be, and the amount shouldn't matter unless they're going to hit you up for more if the price is more. Our fee was included in price, not listed separately. I'd be leery of the fee listed separately. Sounds like it may increase.

So to answer your question. It doesn't sound reasonable based on shingle alone. With all details, it very well may be reasonable.

It's best to talk with past customers, not really the recent ones. If they had problems in the last 5 years, what were they and how were they handled.

I may seem harsh, but hopefully you take away some knowledge from this response.

You should run from this contractor!

I wrote more in my previous responses, then they listed in the details. With them being certified, they should know details are everything. There's much I see in their proposal I do not like at all. It protects them, not all parties involved. I'll list some, and in no particular order according to your proposal.

Their payment schedule is a joke. It should read something like, 35% down at the end of the first working day and all materials are on site. With a copy of lien release given to the customer from suppliers ( no exceptions). The balance to be paid upon satisfactory completion.

They state in "12", about a thorough clean up when job is done. This is outright ludicrous. A provision should be included in the contract about tear off, clean up, and securing the site everyday. Do not assume they will secure the site everyday against inclement weather. The clean up process should be continual during the day, with the debris walked across the roof and deposited in dumpster/dump truck. Your roof pitch is only around 4/12, so there shouldn't be debris on the ground during the day. Tarps burn grass in minutes in the hot sun, same with shingles. They should not be shoving the stuff off the roof. They should run a magnet (I still have a commercial type) everyday in the yard where debris had a chance going. The last thing you want you or your loved ones, or a pet stepping on nails.

During tear-off, all existing roof covering fasteners should be pulled. Not hammered in. All sheathing should be refastened with proper fasteners. The sheathing comes loose when tearing off. All too often I see people just banging the fasteners back in. Look, the fasteners are not going any deeper, so it's useless to just have them sitting in the holes not holding the sheathing down. The decking should be broom swept, and air blown off before any ice guard, felt or new material is installed. You don't want bits and pieces telegraphing the new install.

On #8, galvanized valley flashing. They must want to have open valleys on the front dormer. Galvanized valley flashing went out here in the 70's! No joke, You don't want rust spots in the valleys, or the discoloration. They sell preformed "W" valleys of aluminum in different colors, and copper if you want to throw money at it. Anyone using a metal valley should get it with the "W". I won't go into why. I always preferred a closed valley with cut back, or a closed woven valley. If a cut back is used, the installer must know which area of sheathing gets covered first. And there is more to know than just that.

There is no mention of fastener size (length). All too often I was on jobs roofers wouldn't return to. Only to find they used 1" nails. Why? Because when you buy them, you get more per coil case or more per pound if hand nailing. Speaking of nail lengths, on their #10 for ridge vent. They need to use longer nails for cap over shingle vent. I would always use 2". I seen caps blow off because someone tried to cheap out and use the same 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" for the cap over vent. This is one of those tail light guarantees when not using proper length fasteners. Also it should be listed how far back they're cutting the sheathing for ridge vent. Too far and you got issues, some don't even cut it back and slap the ridge up there. It renders the vent useless. They should also list a saw depth. You don't want them cutting into the trusses. I say this because I've seen more than enough of botched work.

Their #3. Drip on rakes only? Another short cut. There's absolutely no reason for this. The eaves should have drip also. The size of the face of the drip should be listed. You can get cheap drip edge with a 1" face, or get a nice looking 1-7/8 or there about. Never just on rake only. Also, it should be listed how far over the drip the shingle material hangs. Never should it be even with the drip, and never to the point of drooping over the drip. A 3/4" overhang is usually about right. However, this has to be determined in the field.

Their #9. They write 6 nails per shingle. I could look up the requirement for this shingle, but I'm not. Generally there is 4, then when the shingle above it is placed, there will be 4 into the top of the previous shingle. So it gives you 8 per shingle. However, I have seen where people only place 3, so the total would be 6. This is incorrect according to manufacturers instructions. There are provisions for high wind applications, and roof styles such as Gambrel. You do place more fasteners, but the total fasteners holding the shingle will double since the next row also fastens the previous.

I seen in your other thread, it appears to be an addition on the end of the structure. They did not address how they will step flash and possibly counter flash this area. Caulking/roof cement is unacceptable. It should be metal flashing, and not galvanized.

I haven't looked everything they proposed, but I'm sure I wrote more than enough for you to run from this outfit.

With anything in life, when you're spending a good chunk of $$ - always get more than one bid. I'd suggest at least 3.

And don't fall for the warranty spiel. Just pick a company who has been in business for several years and has good reviews.

I replaced my roof a couple years ago and my house looks much bigger than yours. I paid a little over 9k.

Just contracted to have ours done. Two story, 2500 sq and pitched roof areas that a mountain climber wouldn't tackle! lol

Two separate bay windows to boot!

$5,125.00.

The company is family owned by christians that also do roofing for vets, for free and have been in business for over 40 years.

(They did my next door neighbors 4 years ago and it still looks brand new)

(In other words .. yes, I trust them)

GAF HD Timberline Shingles with a Lifetime Guarantee.

I am in Virginia.

(The house before the new roof and some of the 'pitch' areas)

I forgot to say the job includes GAF "Shingle-Mate" fiberglass re-enforced underlay.

Up to 4 sheets of replacement plywood boards.

Flashing and diverter replacements.

Complete tear off and disposal of same.

And these guys actually rake and then go around with a metal detector and magnets after the day is done.

I can't say about fasteners, caulking, length of driven nails etc. etc. but I do trust that they will do the job right!

Got another quote. This one they recommended Malarkey shingles. Quote is even higher than the previous one. :( Anyone have thoughts on Malarkey shingles?

Justme4now, that sounds like a great deal! If only I could just hire the company you did! :)