Unslightly transition from tile to drywall - need advice
We're almost at the end of a gut bathroom renovation. From the beginning, we were not into the Schluter profile look. The tilers did a great job mitering around the window, the niche, and an outside corner. However, on the curb and one side of the shower, we had to go with Schluter. (Bullnose and pencil tiles were discussed and decided against for the curb, months ago when we put in the tile order. The side transition wasn't discussed in great detail at the time.)
On the left side, the tile runs into the drywall at a 90-degree angle, so no profile was needed. On the right side, however, they used a trim along the edge of the tiled area. I wasn't happy with the metallic look, but my husband convinced me it was better than leaving raw tile edge. I then asked the contractors if perhaps the wall could be brought out to hide the trim a bit, and they said they could totally do that.
They added an extra sheet of drywall to bring it (more or less) level with the tiles. From far away, it looks great.
From close up though, it's awful. I understand that our wall bows out slightly, so the drywall can't line up with the trim perfectly, and the bead sticks out somewhat and can't be sanded down. But what bothers me is the gap of almost 1/8" between the trim and the drywall, and the way it's just spackled and painted over. They are still going to do some "touch ups" on it, but I'm not convinced a simple touch up will make it look good.
Finally, it was just brought to my attention that, since we won't have a full glass enclosure (just a partial glass wall on the left side), the bits of water that will inevitably spray onto this drywall and spackled gap could cause problems down the line.
Did the drywall guy do a crappy job, or are we asking for too much? I feel like they shouldn't have made it sound so "doable" if they knew it would be difficult to line it up nicely.
Any advice on how to fix it at this stage, or is the only way to rip out the drywall and start again? Is it even possible to line it up well if the tile is already in place? Thanks in advance!
Comments (8)
PROGN Builders L.L.C
5 years ago
PROBMF Construction
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Transition from tile to carpet : need help fast!
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Comments (7)Wish I did have a picture. That would mean the cabinets were actually IN instead of still in my dreams and the cabinet makers workshop. The counter is 36" high...standard counter, not bar height...and it is 6 feet long. I'm a little worried about stools not snugging far enough in too, but I keep checking where my seat is at various tables/counters and it always seems to leave enough room for the step. But somehow I can't shake this picture of a basement rec-room bar with grungy carpet on the floor and covering a step for a footrest at the bar. I just can't picture how to make it look purposeful and attractive and I can't find any pictures of anything like it....See MoreCurved transition from carpet to tile without moldings
Comments (13)Many thanks :) - This is our basement. My daughter is moving back home after 6 years in college (have never experienced what an "empty nest" feels like - LOL ) - We are fixing up the basement for her - She is afraid that all tiles would be very cold. The entire basement has carpet for the last 24 years but the water came in through the windows during the last big storm so now we try to replace the "potentially can get wet" area with titles (about 1/5 of the entire basement). We try to make it look artistic .. hence the curve comes in the picture. " Because it's a berber carpet you may want to consider a vinyl snap in. " Will go to the local professional flooring store(s) and see if they have this. "The best bet would probably be to find a carpet workshop, cut the curve in your carpet, bring it to a pro and have them bind the edge. Install the pieces of tack strip right next to the tile, run the pad up to it and tack the carpet. You might even want to do the carpet first, considering how hard it could be to get it stretched perfectly to the right spot. Then tape the edge and cover the carpet while the tile is installed and grouted." Great suggestion - I will look into this. Any advices on the grout width and any other ideas with this curve thing are greatly appreciated....See MoreNeed advice on paint color transition??
Comments (8)this is what happens when you mix 3 shades of white. I'd paint all of the crown the same in order to be consistent. you can try doing just the crown within the kitchen portion, stopping at the narrow walls. see how that looks. try that first and take another pic. what color are the kitchen cabinets? didn't anyone test these colors against one another first? (i'm guessing this is a rhetorical question). just wondering how this happened. are you getting white countertops and a white subway backsplash???...See More
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5 years agostrategery
5 years agokatyakat
5 years agoThank you for the responses!
GN Builders, I believe they did use some sort of bead. This bead actually sticks out a bit. It might be hard to see in the photo, but the tile and drywall are approximately on the same level, and there is a ridge that sticks out beyond that surface, which I believe is either a bead, or tape, or something. This is a top view, not to scale:
BMF Construction, yes you are correct. The drywall was cut a bit too short. I'm not sure what kind of compound they used, but it was coming off like chalk on my fingers, and dried with little holes in places. Even if they dig out the compound, I think they said they can't sand down that ridge.katyakat
5 years agoHU-653709943
2 years ago
ci_lantro