Got screwed by bad lawn advice so I joined Houzz - any good advice?
Jon
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Erica B
5 years agoJon
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Need creative advice in joining exit stream to pond - same level
Comments (3)I am a great fan of streams. I believe mine does all of my filtering. I don't actually know that spilling is helping but in any of your cases, all you could have is flowing as a mechanism for cleaning/filtering. Anyway, I don't have a specific solution for you, but I want to add to your thoughts. I suspect that the double piping may be your solution. It would be a 4 'bottom drain' connection! However, it seems to me that mixing method 2 with glue would give you what you are looking for. Admittedly, I have little faith in sealing liners either, but to the extent that you believe in plan 2, the glue would give a semi-seal and prevent movement that might make the weight theory succeed. I"M Still with plan 1. Thinking about plan 3: It seems to me that a single linear rubber clamp is just as good as the square or circle. neither one of us knows what that would be but it simplifies things a bit. I do have one goofy idea that you might think about and mix in. I wanted to suggest a clamp that didn't involve screws with MORE holes. My thought is to cut a slit lengthwise in some pvc pipe, wedge it open, and slip it over the sealed pieces of liner or rubber additions. Perhaps one could use more flexable roll tubing to curve up edges. That black underground tubing is very stiff and still give a spring clamping effect. I'm still with number 1. I suppose my plan would be different from yours only in calling that stream an Inlet not an outlet. I'd put a big pump in the big pond and pump the water to the far end of the stream that would then 'flow' back thru the stream and pipes....See MoreCanning senility (jardinaire screw up advice)
Comments (12)As to the stove elements, I suggest that you either shut off the circut breaker, or unplug the range before working on the sockets. They can still have some live wires there even though the heat control is turned off. Some GE (or is it Hotpoint) stoves have a non removable element, while others have an odd metal fin at the tips. The burners you have (its a Whirlpool product?) are easy to remove by just lifting the element away from the bowl, OPPOSITE where its plugged into the socket. If the bowls are bad, they too can be easily replaced. All the items (elements, sockets, bowls, etc.) can be bought at Home Depot, Lowes, or many of the larger hardware chains. Once the bowl is lifted out, you should see s small screw holding the socket in place at the edge of the hole of the stove surface. Once the screw is removed the socket can easily be lifted out through the opening of the stove and is wired to two wires using wirenuts. These wirenuts just simply screw on to the socket wires. Unscrew them, and then you can untwist the two connected wires and seperate the socket. Obviously, the power is OFF at the main before you mess with the sockets!! Some replacement brands of elements have more turns in the coils compared to others. Avoid the 'economy' burners as they are just not as efficient to use. There is also a raised canning element that I use if I am doing a lot of continous canning. These have more coils and are rasied up about an inch or more from the surface of the stove. They also have thicker support struts and an outside heat shield. My regular elements get so hot that the metal struts holding them flat will start to sag downwards and the burner will eventually sink into the stove top, which is NOT good. Look at the photo in the link, and if your burner connection tips are similar (little round ¿ shapes), then its a good chance you will find replacements for everything needed. Here is a link that might be useful: Heavy duty CANNING burner...See MoreAfter 2 bad dishwashers, need advice and help!
Comments (51)Thanks for the tip. I called the main number for Miele USA tomorrow and ask about the warranty. In the August 08 brochure, these are the differences it lists between the Diamante G2120SC and the Optima G2430SC, but it doesn't always explain what they are. Temperature settings: 5 Diamante, Vario Optima Economy cycle: Diamante China & Crystal: Optima Sound: Q2 Diamante, Q3 Optima Auto Sensor -Optima G2430SC additions ($1679): Removable Bottle Holder 24hr Delay Start Water Softener Detergent Options -Optima G2470SCSF additions ($1899): Hidden Controls Acoustic Function Monitor Optical Function Monitor When I saw the Optima and Diamante, both looked to have the same cutlery tray. I think only the Excelle and LaPerla had the cutlery tray in two removable sections. For Detergent we use the Cascade 2-in-1 Packs (powder) with Dawn. For that, would the Optima be set for Gel or 2-in-1? The manual says the 2-in-1 setting is if it has a rinse aid built into the packet. The Cascade 2-in-1 does not, so I guess the Gel setting would be the best one to use. As posted yesterday, the dishwasher would have to be connected to my Hot Water line. Because of that, it would be around 120F when it get to the unit. It could heat the water even hotter if needed, but I wonder if it would lower the temperature if needed. It looks like the Diamante has 5 pre-set temperature settings (it doesn't say what the are) and the Optima can adjust it to any. I'd have to think about the extra cost for the Optima, as a few of the features would be nice. It's still sounds a bit odd to me that you have to spend over $1679 for a Miele dishwasher just to get a Delay Start, when my GE from 2 years ago had it for $600, and my current Electrolux does at $1300. We like the look of the intergraded (SCSF), but its $200 more just for that. I'm not sure what the "Acoustic Function Monitor" and " Optical Function Monitor" are. I ask tomorrow when I call them to find out about the warranty. When I was at the Miele showroom last week, I brought some dishes, glasses, silverware, and a baking sheet to see how they would fit. The tallest glass that I had just cleared the cutlery rack when the middle rack was in the highest position. Lowering the middle rack gave the glass more room, but then the middle spray was closer to the dishes. We put some of the silverware in the cutlery tray, and it wasn't as difficult to use as my mom thought it would be....See MoreAdvice on aerating lawn - should I hire? Can I do it? Should I buy?
Comments (37)morpheouspa. Gloves down here for a moment. What claims are you referring to that I have made about mechanical aeration? Granted, I do claim that there are purposes for which the employment of mechanical aeration can be useful and it irritates me to no end that people peremptorily discount mechanical aeration as being without any use. (in the past couple of months, I've seen were you have suggested? that plug aeration might be an aid in pursuing some outcome.) Are you saying that I have advocated mechanical aeration as a necessary continued lawn care practice? (Do you advocate the application of a surfactant as a necessary continuing lawn care practice?) Is it necessary to spam this site with links to hundreds of university turf programs that recommend home owner lawn aeration not only as a continuing lawn care practice, but for the prevention of disease, thatch LDS etc.? For what purpose? They are just conclusory statements, No more valid than anything you or anyone else can produce. What you linked to, rather than belittle you, look at the facts: First some of what they call aeration is plowing (bad for me) but anyway I counted 13 studies and of those, the majority showed some improvement to crop yield, none showed a decline. They do,make a conclusory statement that aeration will cause increased weeds. OK fine. Based on what? No ancillary evidence even? Did they atleast credit dchall for the quote or maybe daniel? So even though your site actually supports that aeration results in slightly greater % crop production than non aeration, I say irrelevant and useless for any support for either of us. This argument has been going on forever, but if you take the time to understand and observe, there are logical conclusions you can come to and when applied either work or don't. If X then Y, put it to the test, and if it repeats, then continue, whether it is surfacants, aeration, corn meal or Bayer. So recommend on your experience and give your rational when challenged. Caveat emptor. My goal for my lawn, and for those I give advice to, is to obtain a turf that in the shortest time possible will only require mowing, watering and fertilization. I endeavor to employ the least expensive, least labor intensive, but most effective methods for a healthy turf AND soil and those are the ones I promote. My questions were for the reader and therefor need no response from you . I will no longer joust this windmill with you or anyone else, but I will call out anyone who "make [an unsupportable} claim... or [spew} any other blatant lie"...See MoreJoe BigBlue
5 years agomishmosh
5 years agoJon
5 years agoJon
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJon
5 years agoJon
5 years ago
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