Thanks for the tip on Mpix, I was just getting ready to find a place to have 12 of my travel photos printed 8"x10" in black and white. I have 12 black frames waiting for pictures. I will choose my favorite photo from each of the following places I've traveled in the last two years: Antarctica (I'm choosing two from Antarctica), Buenos Aires, Kobe, Toyko, Hakodate Japan, Russia, Kodiak, Homer, Sitka and Glacier Bay Alaska. I will add the 12th photo when I return from the Iditarod dog race in Alaska in March. I can't wait to see them lining my boring hallway. Jodi-

ahh, you are so good...and QUICK! I should have explained...the reason I am looking for this picture is that it showed how the glaze got *into* those 4 vertical lines that I mentioned. It really highlighted the vertical lines. I was hoping, since I saw the picture recently, that you are someone here would be familiar w/it simply because I *may* have seen it here. My shaker cabinets have those vertical lines (I really do wonder if a shaker cab with those lines has a different name, or a word used to describe the difference) and while I was not considering a glaze, after I saw that picture...I thought "hmmmm..." thanks again!

To woodchuck.mo: About Hydrangea color Unless a hydranagea is the standard white variety, its color depends on the PH of the soil (acidic to basic). The soil must be acidic to produce the blue color. If the soil is neutral (ph 7) to basic, the color will be pink. It works just like litmus papar in chem lab: litmus paper turns blue in acid and pink in basic solutions. It is tough in SE Wisconsin to get the blue color due to the high limestone content in our soils. Sulphur compounds are available at garden centers to acidify the soil around hydrangeas, but I have found that the recommended amount hardly affect our soils. There is too much limestone just beyond the plant's root circle. The blue to pink hydrangea is an inicator plant. It indicates the ph of your soil The beautiful blue color seen in garden centers are of plants grown in a pot where complete control of acidicy is possible. If you plant, I recommend the new variety called something like "ever summer" (not the exact name). It blooms on new wood in June whereas the standard plant blooms on 2nd year wood. Blooming on new wood was important to my hydrangea this year. The plant came out of dormancy too early this year due to our warm March. Buds swelled on the old wood and was about to break open when April freezes killed these buds. Later the stem died also, but the plant revived in May sending up new shoots from the root and these shoots have new blooms that will soon be open. Without the ability to bloom on new wood, I would not have any blossoms this year. As the blossom ages out, it turns green and finally browns in the fall. The bloom is long lasting, and new blossoms continue to appear as the older ones age out. The plant is susceptable to deer damage; the dear nip off new blossoms as they appear.

"It's erratic, and it's more likely to work if you upload FIRST and then write about the picture. For me, it's not at all erratic. I've tried all sorts of permutations and nothing works. And, before now, I NEVER had a problem. I sent an email to HOUZZ and they asked me to clear my history, cache and cookies. I use CCleaner and will periodically clear all that, usually leaving cookies like Houzz and yahoo for example. So, this time when I used CCleaner, I made a point of asking that the Houzz and Gardenweb cookies be deleted. (Houzz does not make it easy to log back in, but I finally figured that out.) They asked my browser. Google Chrome. Nothing changed. Same problem. What's somewhat interesting is that I can upload to my "Ideabook" at Houzz, then click the "Houzz Photo" link and will be offered the chance to select from pictures in my "Ideabook". I've taken pictures in the winter through my bedroom window as the birds come for the food scraps I throw out for them. I was big into peas at the time. Hay