Best and affordable sweet pea cage
jeremiahgoudreau
6 years ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years agozen_man
6 years agoRelated Discussions
'Gardener' pulled my sweet peas!
Comments (6)Thanks all; these peas are tucked in the edge of a mound in front of a fence. I have hung signs but there no room for barriers. Here's some info and a link about growing in warm climes. I do find it tricky-I put seeds out with our first rains(November) and pre-sprout some more in February to fill in holes. Fragrantgardens tips; In an average weather-year the general rules for the USA for starting sweet peas are: California- August to September for spring bloom- Generally the winter flowering varieties should be used for this planting time. If you have a cool, wet autumn this will work. If your fall is hot and dry, this will be challenging. (Make sure you keep your soil moist at all times. Don't even think of letting the soil dry out, much less letting it commence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) If it is hot and dry, consider waiting until the fall rains begin in November, December or January. November to January for summer bloom- Plant summer blooming varieties. Of these, Cuthbertson's blooms first, Old Fashioned are most heat resistant, and Spencers, which have the most spectacular blooms, bloom three weeks later. Southwest. South Texas and South Florida- All of the literature I have read suggests September and October if climate is hot- typically in the lowlands. Early spring in mountainous areas of the Southwest. Remember to keep them moist. I need feedback from people in these climates. Please read about California (above) Lower Southern States- November to January- This large geographic area is difficult to predict accurately, but remember that the ground temp must be consistently 55-65 degrees for the seeds to germinate. Consider transplanting. I need feedback from people in these climates. Here is a link that might be useful: Fragrantgarden site...See MoreSweet peas (long and waffling)
Comments (16)Yep, sweet peas. I had gotten frazzled to the point where I had decided 'never again'...but immediately missed them on my year off. There was also the mad lathyrus year where I trialled as many pea species as I could get my hands on (appalling mislabelled chaos ensued). Now though, I still have my allotment and have reached some sort of vague equilibrium, sowing a handful of colours on pea sticks (this year, it is back to my favourite- creams and lavenders, so Just Jenny, Creme Eggs, Kings High Scent and Erewhon...with a side planting of lathyrus tingitanus and l.rotundifolius in large pots (topped with metal obelisks and phlox drummondii and legousia (in place of nemophilia). All very doable....See MorePerennial sweet pea vines
Comments (14)I grew perennial sweet peas by mistake the first year I wintersowed. I didn't know that there was a perennial version, and I planted them up in a pot but no flowers all year. After I contacted the one who sent me the seed she said she didn't know, but 'they just came up every year'. But I forgot that I had planted a few seedlings in front of a peony and I have been trying to get rid of that each year since. It has a huge taproot, which I cut back savagely each fall and it comes back. But the flowers, although with no fragrance, are beautiful. Mine are pale pink and white, and I control it by cutting it back during the year. It produces copious seeds, but does not seem to re-seed....See MoreWhich cages for Earthbox?
Comments (35)Just wanted to update to say how happy I am with the cages I chose. My Burpee Pro 48" cages are essentially the same cage as the Gurneys, just in a different color. I experimented with a couple of different ways of using them (and the EBs) based on all the comments in this thread. Jeri - sorry to hear about your tomato/cage damages. Mine have been very sturdy so far. Here's what I did: For most of the EBs, I put 2 square cages to a box, side by side, but installed them upside down, with the flat (upper) edge against the EB and the "legs" in the air. I gained more height this way, and I didn't have to poke holes through the plastic covers or let the legs hang over the edge. I also experimented with Dave's method of planting, by planting in the center of the box, leaving off the plastic, and covering with pine mulch. I did 2 boxes of La Roma III as a comparison, one the EB way, and one Dave's way. To hold the cages on to the EB, I used the rim clamps that come with the EB and clamped the edge of the cage onto the edge of the EB. I then wired the two cages together at the top using green floral wire. The cages are remarkably sturdy like this. I also planted a couple of boxes using two plants in a single diamond cage. For these, I put the cages in right-side-up, and pushed the legs into the EB as deep as they would go (which was up to the first rung). The plants are really really big now (bigger than I ever expected!) and I've had no issues with any of the cages falling off or blowing over or anything. I even have two plants, which I have marked as Charger, but I wonder if I didn't tag them wrong, because they are really tall and outgrowing the top of the upside down cage. The deck is like a jungle now (the pictures don't really capture how huge these plants feel), and I fear these boxes are way too crowded together. Now I need to find a way to get more room and spread them out!...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agojeremiahgoudreau
6 years agonanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agojeremiahgoudreau thanked nanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)wantonamara Z8 CenTex
6 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agorob333 (zone 7b)
6 years agowantonamara Z8 CenTex
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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