How do I turn these oak floors into gray or espresso (Help!)

S Patel

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

The townhouse I just bought has three floors. 1st floor has oak (engineered?) wood below

The second and third floor has darker wood floors

I want to stain them into a gray or espresso color or a combination of the espresso/gray. I would also paint the walls white. I'm just not a fan of the red in the floors. I like darker colors and dark gray floors kind of like the below tones. Help - any suggestions??

Featured Answer

SJ McCarthy

6 years ago

And just for fun, a vinyl floor needs SMOOTH and FLAT. An engineered hardwood (like yours) has BEVELLED EDGES. That means there is a VALLEY between each and every plank. You would have a HORRIBLE looking vinyl floor installed. The vinyl will "sink into" or telegraph each and every dip, hill, valley, grain of sawdust, and bevelled edge it is sitting over top of.

And then there is the chemical reaction that vinyl has with hardwood FINISHES! Yes. The finish on your hardwoods will have a chemical reaction to the vinyl sitting on top.

In short, the amount of work you would HAVE TO DO to get a vinyl floor over those perfectly sound, fully functional hardwood floors = MORE than removing the hardwood would cost.

As Sophie points out, you really should be discussing things with a designer at this point. You have a LOVE for dark wood floors (all of your inspiration photos show dark or medium dark floors) which is considered "timeless" in many situations.

Because of this love of dark/deep coloured floors, I think you would be better off working with traditional dark hardwood finishes that have less of a red appearance - but would NOT qualify as "gray".

Please do NOT go over these with vinyl = TENS OF THOUSANDS of dollars worth of USELESS! You will be SPITTING mad to see the look of vinyl over top of beveled hardwood. It isn't pretty. I can tell you that much.

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Comments (41)

Boxerpal
6 years ago
I think you would need to see if the engineered hardwood has enough wood left on it to sand and refinish. Are you doing this yourself? Here are some links that might help you.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/refinishing-engineered-hardwood-floors-dsvw-vd~4786094?n=2

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/refinishing-engineered-hardwoods-dsvw-vd~3654537?n=8
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
Yes, It still has some life to it and enough wood to be resurfaced.
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ok,,so lets start w/the kitchen. well, paint colors actually. it's ok to do different colors in other rooms,,,if you can see both rooms, slightly, then either do the same or do similar coordinating tones. The rest of the advice is if you plan on keeping what's there. If you're going to rip it out and get a new kitchen in a year, then live w/it if you can. If this is all you can do for many years, then see if the changes, below, are something you can do. if you plan on keeping all of that wood trim (if it was me, I'd prob paint every thing except the beams on the ceiling, and maybe the trim going up the staircase. In the kitchen you have so many dark and heavy elements, I feel you need to lighten it up. I can live w/the black tile, for now, but that brick? hell no. that has to get painted. You can paint the brick on the island, or, I'd cover it up w/panels/trim and paint it a soft charcoal to match the floor (or whatever color you like) Grab some thin wood or mdf panels from HD or lowes and cut to fit the 3 sides. Use construction adhesive to adhere to bricks (or get some masonry screws and screw them in) then get some 1x2 primed trim pieces and secure all around the borders..like so if you want a bit fancy, do the stiles along the back (above,,the vertical pieces) otherwise, just do it like pictured below. see how nice and clean looking it is? More ideas, search "trimming out kitchen island". you could try doing it in this color or if you feel like you want to have a painting party, do all of the cabinets in one, two or all four as they've outlined. This combo would look great w/your flooring. you kitchen ceiling needs to be skim coated and smooth out. or, have it retextured, primed and painted in a flat bright white. if you will be getting some retro fit recessed lights (Costco LED's,,,great price) then wait until the holes are done for those. Minimum of six 6" cans (8 would be better) , and two spots for pendants over the island. BTW, replacing the top on the island is a piece of cake. either check a granite fabricator yard for a remnant piece (you have a slender top so it should be easy to find) or look on craigslist for a remnant or even an entire island, or get an inexpensive butcher block and cut it yourself to fit. Whatever you get, leave an extra couple inches off the back end for an overhang. you could do a few more inches. The brick around your oven? paint it. white, black, gray, pick one. use a satin paint for that. clean and scrub that brick very well before you PRIME it (if using a dark paint, prime it with a gray primer. white for white,,,but don't skip the priming part) as for baseboards, if they're all small and short, pull them and replace w/these. Any questions? and yes, if you have the budget, call in a designer to help you out with what needs to be done, what should be done, etc.
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Boxerpal
6 years ago
Well, then I believe you sand, stain and seal them.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
bump
smit2380
6 years ago
Grey floors are a dying trend. I would probably not spend that much money to refinish the floors in a way that already on its way out. Dark floors look nice, but they can be hard to live with. They show everything and scratches are pretty noticeable. Have you lived with dark wood floors before.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
Yes, I have lived with dark floors. Are you suggesting to keep it another color?
gtcircus
6 years ago
I like the floors upstairs. The trim color is a bit dull and you could certainly paint the spindles on the stairs for a more updated look. Dark floors are horrific to keep clean and gray floors are already dated. Get all the floors to one color, preferably a medium tone and then paint.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
How would you paint the spindles and railing?
lefty47
6 years ago
HI -- Do all your painting first before you decide on the flooring . Wall color will make the floors look different . Go to a flooring shop and find out about what is being done now about wood colors . The really dark floors are a pain . I think when you stay with a more natural wood then that will stand the test of time .
PRO
JAN MOYER
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
You will not get the red out without a lot of work. Cheaper and faster to rip if you can't stand them, unless a solid wood, and then they may need to be water popped.. Leave the others alone. Or Rip those too.

Five years or less up the road, you will regret the gray.............just saying. Done, Done and overdone. There are wood tones without the red, that will stand the much longer test of time.
gtcircus
6 years ago
I would paint the spindles, I don’t know that you have to restain the railing. I did but its a lot of work. I went with a dark mahogany look with a tinge of ebony - mainly because i have solid mahgany doors in the same color. I think if you went with a lighter color on the trim with the dark doors you could have a very modern and vibrant look with out all the headaches IMO. I had a super traditional house and I wanted to go more fresh and modern. The original staircase was 1970’s oak stain. There are also modern spindles you can change out from Ebay that would make the stairs modern. I’ll find them and post. I looked at putting them in and my designer said NO.
gtcircus
6 years ago
Here you go! I actually ordered the spindles and they are nice. If you have round holes you drill them out put liquid nails in the holes and the have covers for the spindles.
S Patel thanked gtcircus
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
Jan - what wood stains would stand the much longer test of time.

Also, what are your thoughts on putting float vinyl planking (wood) on top of my hard wood floors as they are to get the color I want? vs. going through the staining efforts to get the right color.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago

I really like this floor color and wall combination. Not very dark.

So instead of going much much darker as everyone suggesting not to is there a easy way to darken what's already there a shade. With white walls, I think the red will show through more.
gtcircus
6 years ago
If you google how to stain a bannister darker, you will get many articles out there on various ways to do it. Most involve gel stain and a lot of hand work. I had mine professionally stripped and stained which involved tenting the room and lots of horrific fumes.
gtcircus
6 years ago
Jan I don’t disagree with you about the red, but I had to work around existing flooring and then bring 1970’s oak stairs into something that would match. If I had to start from scratch and had the option of installing new flooring, I would go with a medium rich brown without the red and get flooring that was unified - if the budget allows. I think some of the flooring choices posted meet that criteria.
mark_rachel
6 years ago
You will not be able to stain to match that gray LVT sample. That's a man made product. I would also not suggest staining the dark espresso, what a nightmare to keep looking good. If you are not sure if the floors are engineered how do you know that they are able to be sanded & refinished?
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
Mark - it is engineered. I have confirmation from agent.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
I'm really liking this color - https://www.provenzafloors.com/WaterproofLVP.aspx?id=2112&gallery=true&collection=Uptown%20Chic

Which I'm sure I can't get my floors to match. Would putting a floating vinyl plank floor on top of my wood be a bad idea? how does that compare to staining refinishing my wood floors in terms of cost?
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
I'm also liking this:

https://www.provenzafloors.com/WaterproofLVP.aspx?id=2107&gallery=true&collection=Uptown%20Chic

It's a bummer if I'm stuck to the colors or range of colors due to my existing floors.
mark_rachel
6 years ago
Most engineered wood can not be refinished. Do you have extra planks laying around that you can inspect?
User
6 years ago
You need to just STOP. You are buying into every 5 minute no longevity fad on the planet. You have some classic choices already that should be built upon. Not discarded.
S Patel
Original Author
6 years ago
What do you recommend the, Sophie?
User
6 years ago
Hire a designer who does classic looks, and work with what you have.
PRO
JAN MOYER
6 years ago
You can't "go over" the floor with anything. You can rip it. But I would stay far from any gray floor.

Its a fad sailing into the sunset.Get a sand on site wood floor in white oak , in. 3 1/4 boards and stain to a deep nutty whatever brown. It will outlive you.
S Patel
Original Author
5 years ago
Thought I'd update all on my progress.

Floors and banister stained (dark brown/ebony/gray), pony wall removed, tiles removed.

Any recommendations?
This is what's planned:
- Paint walls gray (thinking silver bullet)
- Refaced: White upper cabinets doors, Bottom gray cabinets from Semihandmade
- Kitchen tile: no clue yet - Any recs?
- Lowering the bar at kitchen to counter level
- New white quartz countertop - Any recs?
- Powder room: patterned tiles - not sure which yet
Don't mind the dirt on the floors. Before anyone says anything, I know it shows dirt easily.
Boxerpal
5 years ago
Love your progress! I like dark floors so no comments from me. LOL

I happen to love light gray walls too but you want to be sure it doesn't conflict with the gray cabinets you are doing... Make sure you love the look. That both colors work together.
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S Patel
Original Author
5 years ago
Update on renovations. Still haven't decided on a tile for the kitchen floor, powder room or laundry room.

standing right inside of the front door to the townhouse
Sidgirl K
5 years ago
FWIW, I think it looks lovely, and who cares if it's not "trendy" anymore? Gray is my favorite color and has been for years. I don't care if it's "in" or not, I can't wait to get gray wood floors put in in the fall (once we've finished all the other renovations we're doing).

I can't imagine not doing something I've wanted for years just because some people who care about "trends" tell me it's "out." I don't care about being trendy or "in." I know what I like, and that's what I want. (It *is* irritating, though, to have a color scheme in mind for years and when you finally have the chance to use it, it's the "hot new color scheme" that's everywhere! Sigh.) I'm not inviting home magazines in to take pictures, and I'm not selling for at least ten years or so, so the only person whose tastes I care about is me.

Best of luck to you, and keep making your home what *you* want it to be!
Debbie Downer
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Actually, fwiw, vinyl plank flooring can be installed over existing flooring, per manufacturer instructions. Its very thick.
S Patel
Original Author
5 years ago
In a huge dilemma.. I got the waterfall quartz countertop. I picked out white marble like flooring 12x24. Now I'm thinking it will be way toooo much white going on. I would have gone with semihandmade gray lower cabinets and ultra white upper cabinets. Any recommendations now that the countertop is in?
Boxerpal
5 years ago
Great progress.

I like your counters, the waterfall is beautiful. I am a little confused... Are you keeping the red toned wood cabinets or are those being painted?

You wrote : I would have gone with semihandmade gray lower cabinets and ultra white upper cabinets. Any recommendations now that the countertop is in?

Would or Could? Are you changing the cabs to gray or white? Either way it will not be too much white. Used texture for your back splash in shades of white but before we do that.... Do you have a picture or sample of your floor? You said a marble like flooring. Is it cool or warm?

Before I go on I just want to know are the cabinets staying as is? Here are some pictures that are similar to yours if the cabs are staying as is that go with marble like whites...

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S Patel
Original Author
5 years ago
I am wanting to go with gray lower cabinet doors and ultra white upper cab doors from semihandmade. Refacing.
Boxerpal
5 years ago
Oh so the red brown will be gone... I have never heard of semihandmade. How interesting. They just cover the cabinets? Like a refacing product?

It will NOT be too white. It will look great. Keep in mind if you use texture to create interest white can really work. The good news is that you have shaker style cabs that will probably look the same as they do now but perhaps white and gray. There is not other ornate detail so it could really work with those counters. Look for a backsplash tile with texture. Find something like gold hardware or maybe a cool light fixture.

Go to Houzz and search in photos exactly what you want to do and you will find some inspirational photos to help you get on your way. Do you have a sample of the colors gray and white?

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User
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Very 2011 Kit of The Year. Now that wood cabinets, natural colored floors, and colors are coming in, are you going to rip out that past fad and start over again to go with the new one?
Sidgirl K
5 years ago
Yeah, I don't think it's too much white, either, and I like white and gray color schemes. Maybe add a bright color as an accessory color? A nice bright blue, red, yellow, or orange? Yellow and blue work especially well with gray and white, IMO. You could just get some hand towels and maybe a few countertop accessories, like paper towel dispenser/towel rod/sugar bowl/toaster/utensil holder...that kind of thing, and that will brighten it up and add some cheer. I think it looks awesome so far!
Sidgirl K
5 years ago
Oh, FYI...I'm currently re-doing my kitchen, and I'm having my cabinet doors made by Scherr's. Their door prices are very reasonable, IMO (less than Semihandmade, I'm pretty sure), and they will finish the doors in any Sherwin-Williams color you choose (as well as doing any door/drawer front in any size). I'm finishing mine myself, because I'm on a rather tight budget, but it's something to look into. You could add brighter-colored doors here and there if you want, or maybe have your peninsula doors be a different color, if you're worried about too much gray and white.

I'm doing IKEA cabinets, and Scherr's is making me doors that look just like the Hittarp door (with grooves up and down the entire surface, no raised frame around them). Hittarp comes in off-white, so this way I can do white doors, and I built a shelf peninsula that's painted in S-W's "Oceanside." My toekicks will also be Oceanside, for a bit of fun and color in all the white. Orange is my accessory color--all of my countertop accessories (utensil holder, coffee crock, sugar bowl, knife holder) are Le Creuset's "Volcanic." I just haven't decided yet if I want butcher block countertops or black or white (or some other color, hee; I could paint laminate any shade and then seal with polyurethane or acrylic. I did that in a previous kitchen: the walls were pale spring green, the cabinets white with bright yellow doors, and I painted the old [1960s] laminate countertop a cool blue-gray and sealed with several coats of clear polyurethane. It looked awesome, especially with pale wood flooring throughout.)

I hope that helps! Your kitchen looks gorgeous so far!
PRO
Scherr's Cabinets & Doors Inc
5 years ago
@Sidgirl K

You'll have to share pictures with us when you get it all put together! I'm sure Houzz would like to see it too - that color scheme sounds fantastic!
Sidgirl K
5 years ago
Hey, thanks, Scherr's! I will definitely share photos--I can't wait to get my new cabinets and especially my doors & drawer pulls. You guys are amazing to work with so far. Tanner has been so patient with me and all my changes and questions; I'm probably driving him nuts, lol, but he's great about all of it. I'm hoping to be able to get a custom cabinet or two from you, as well!
S Patel
Original Author
5 years ago
Which tile to go with?
The hexagone or fabric like texture porcelain taupe tile in herringbone (8 x 24)?