HI-I know this is an old thread but I am searching for a company in Pennsylvania to fabricate and embed the a 3 sided glass shower enclosure with one door into the granite sill. I have not found any who will take care of creating the channel in the granite. So many opinions from different installers!! "exposed channel is cleaner looking" "clips are cleaner looking" "exposed channel will pit" "clips will get mildew in the silicone" "recessed channel will get dirty".....I am wondering how liamrperry's shower glass turned out? Any problems?Thanks.

I wish I'd known - the contractor said that the shower door people couldn't come out and measure until after the tiling was done, so I have put off these decisions (so busy with so many others). Now I have no idea where the studs are. The location of the glass will be right next to the door into the room, and I'm sure there's framing around it, but I don't know how wide it is. The shower glass will be less than 4" from the door opening. I wish I'd looked at this when everything was open. I'm sure the contractor knows, but he's on vacation at the moment. Are the bottom supports the same as the side supports, suero?

1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install.

Mtn, this is mostly a guest bath, although it's a full main floor bathroom. I use the toilet instead of trekking upstairs to use my bath (I live alone). And, of course, the sink for handwashing. Before covid, I had fairly frequent overnight guests, but I don't hang with women who wear make-up, so the lighting in the bathroom for that task isn't critical. My grandson uses it when he's here and he's a bit of a stickler about styling his hair, but that's about the only thing that mirror is actually "used" for. Would that change your mind about pendants?