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What's Happening At My House (Bartlesville, OK)

User
6 years ago

I apologize for the dark picture. It's early morning here. AND IT's BEEN RAINING!!!!

Today I decided to work on my tomato plants. I've purchased Burpee hybrid seed this year because I've been having such an awful time with drought and with poor production. If I don't get tomato plants in the ground early enough to make fruit by early July, all the plants get stressed with the heat, even when I am able to keep them sufficiently watered, and then the insects come in like vultures and finish off the plant. By fall, all the plants are dead and I don't even get a fall crop. Start plants in August for a fall garden? I've tried, without success. I even tried cutting off branches of mature plants and trying to root them in water to use as new plants for the fall. Didn't have a lot of success with that, either. They will make roots, but often don't make the transplant into soil or die before I can get them transplanted.

Are any of you familiar with Gary Pilarchik? He has quite a repertoire of gardening videos on YouTube, under The Rusted Garden. Today I watched the one about tomato pruning because my plants have grown very well and I think I see an opportunity here. Gary is doing something a little differently than others. Instead of taking off the sucker branches, he is allowing one or two on the lowest part of the stem to remain, and removing the fruiting branch. This creates two (or three) main branches that then make fruiting branches and make for a more prolific plant. Here is that video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfXzT9UZCM0

I found, also, a video by TexasPrepper2, that you might want to look at, regarding cloning tomato plants by rooting sucker branches:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhTdg4dzDW0

Gary's method of cutting off fruiting branches, low on the stem, fell right into my needs, because I notice my plants do not have any sucker branches yet. (Sucker branches grow in the inside of the "elbow" between the main stem and the fruiting branch. Many people break these off and throw them away because they compete for nutrients and water and do not produce fruit, and also to allow better air circulation into the plant.)

And also because, when I plant them, I always put them lower into the hole by quite a bit and would probably break off these lower branches, anyway. So I decided I might try rooting some new plants.

Gotta tell ya, I'm spoiled by collecting my own seed from open-pollinated tomatoes and I was pretty aghast at how few seed were in those Burpee envelopes, priced at $3 per envelope. (Atwood's discounts seeds during most of the springtime, right now it's 40%, and that's a real help, but still, I hope the price of paper doesn't explode because these seed houses that sell only a few seed in envelopes that are about 1000 times too big to hold them will go broke buying all those big envelopes!) I'm pretty seriously disgusted with these folks, putting so few seeds in a packet. It's not just Burpee, either. I bought a pack of seeds for artichoke from Baker Creek, and there were FOUR SEEDS in the pack. FOUR!!!! Only two of which came up, and the plants stood in the garden and never made anything, anyway. Sheesh.

My thinking is that if tomato plant cloning will work better by rooting in potting soil, then cloning will get more yield from the seed packet and will produce a plant that is the same as the parent plant. Following Texas Prepper2's lead, I am trying his method, but inside, while I wait for temperatures to warm such that I can set things out.

This is my make-shift cloning lab. Bwa-ha-ha!! I used rooting compound on the stems. And I will not clamp that lid shut, I'll probably want to let a little air into there because of the danger of mold formation and/or damping off.

I always mess up when it comes to pepper seed. It always takes longer to germinate than I think it's going to. I was really worried this time that my cheese pepper seed saved from previous years' crops was no longer viable.

....Not to worry.....

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