The workmanship fall's below the level of a first time amateur diyer.

klem1 - that was what we suspected. As we are first time homeowners, any specifics would be really helpful so we can discuss with our contractor. Thanks.

The contractor know's it's bad work simply from looking at tile in other homes.The fact it look's horrible is specifics enough. If you havn't paid,he can do it over until you are pleased or go away and let you hire someone else. If he has your money,I doupt any thing you say will make things better.

Photo 1. You got plenty of feedback from your original posting.

Photo 2. Inconsistant grout spacing. Unacceptable.

Photo 3. Lumber does not belong in a curb design. EVER. Curb should be integral to pan. Floor should be grouted before setting wall tile.

Photo 4. Is this a repurposed mixing valve? Will valve trim cover the tile cuts?

I have demoed projects in better condition than this. Commisioning the finish project will ultimately cost more in subsequent damage than a start over.

Also, looking at the third photo, I can see the backer through the big gap and it looks like there is no waterproofing membrane. What was used for backer and did anything get done as far as making the surface behind the tile waterproof?

Even if he used cement backer board, don't let him tell you it's waterproof and that's adequate: it's not, and failing to have done that is enough to necessitate a tear out. If it's not properly waterproofed, the tile and grout will not prevent water from getting through to the backer and the studs behind and causing all kinds of unseen damage in the next couple of years.

Sorry to sound so negative, but thought you should know about this rather than being even more unhappy in a couple of years

thanks kudzu9 - it is just the backer board and then the tile - what is usually used to waterproof this?

At its core this is a hiring error, perhaps as A first time homeowner you do not understand and know how to source and hire A tile professional. Your shower is a total tear out and you are better served to refocus on recouping your loss tearing it out and asking us all how to source and hire A tile professional.

Theres 2K tile hacks on craigslist and there is 10K properly built showers by proven professionals and most importantly theres bulletproof tile contracts to protect yourself with.

What did the building/plumbing inspector say about the drain connection the current plumbing valve and the shower pan flood test?? whats your contract and permits look like?

Ames-

There are several types of products, both solid and liquid. An example of a sheet-applied membrane is Kerdi membrane. Alternatively, you can use a liquid, roll-on product like Kerdi RedGard The absence of anything like this in your shower is a red flag.

I get the impression op is geathering information for use in discussing this with contractor. I fear it will not be as effected as op might hope but for the record,how about a general feeling. If that's what op is doing,drilling down on single issues such as moisture membrane can backfire. The intire job is a disaster and op need's a new contractor. Realalisticlly,what might op accomplish by going to contractor with new found information? I don't think it possible for op to educate the contractor on proper tile installation. Tundra Finish seem's to be on the most productive track. Ames011,will you please let us know if,when and how this is resolved?

Tundra Finish Works LLC and klem1 - Yes, we should have been more thorough in hiring but we got a GC who has over 100 positive reviews on Angies List (and the only negatives are less than a handful and over three years ago) - was hoping they would be overseeing this so we wouldn't have to but seems that we differ on what a quality job looks like.
It has been checked by the building inspector but I do not believe they did any tests with water - is this something we can request?
We are working on contacting a local plumber and tiler to have them review the issues before considering firing the contractor (want to cover ourselves). He is also installing our floors this week, and until that work is done, we would not have enough held back to finish the house (it is currently not livable). Even as it is, if we change contractors we will unfortunately be out quite a bit.
Really appreciate the suggestions and feedback on the quality - having experienced people confirm my fears helps me take a harder line moving forward.

The tilework itself is average. It is not horrible. Just average. You cannot have expectations of Houzz A+ Level tilework unless you are willing to pay the Houzz level pricing that it takes to get that tile work.

The pan liner and waterproofing of the walls is a F-. To not even wrap the (wood!) curb with the liner is careless and will result in almost immediate issues.

This is why to get a properly waterproofed basic tile shower costs 7-9K. A reputable tile contractor would have rebuilt the wall by sistering the studs and would have explained that. And explained the proper waterproofing and why it was being done.

Cant tell you how many Angies list tile failures i look at every year always I am told they had great reviews on angies list.

On another note Id like to have a fun Houzz challenge here

Since we have so many people on these forums always chiming in on the Tile disasters lets see what you all have learned and show us your knowledge.

Ive gone ahead and Lettered just a few of the errors and why this job is A fail in both UPC, IRC and especially TCNA compliance as well as MFG instructions not followed.

I'll bite but I need to get some work don first, si I have started a list. I will be back later or this evening to post my list. (I won't look at others posts).

Boards should be installed 1/4” above the floor, shower pan or the tub and should be caulked.

All the joints should have 2” alkali resistant fiber tape and embedded in mortar and so is all the joints should be filled with mortar also.

Doesn't look like the backer board is installed and fastened the right way, all joints should be supported and placed over framing members.

Screws should also be spaced properly, in the pictures they obviously not (I believe 8" OC is the max spread)

All surfaces should be leveled and mortar or glue should be spread even with a notched trowel.

I'm not even gonna get into the waterproofing rubber installation or the floor tile installation, this is gonna be nothing but waiting for failures to happen down the road. I would take them out now before the mortar sets real good, this way you can save some tiles.

Just a quick start as I ran out of daylight yesterday but:

Wood Curb

No obvious waterproofing/detail where the pan meets the wall

Substrate (denseglass ((?)) with nails

No visible waterproofing over substrate (?)

Joints of substrate not taped

tiles shimmed with ?, not fully set or adhered

I had to tear out this bathroom because it was leaking like Niagra falls in about 3 months after complete home remodeling and I was amazed how this was done and you think you've seen it all

GN Builders - Wow! I guess at least we don't have contractor bags - not the worst ever!

GN-

If you hadn't posted pictures, I'd think you were making that up.... ;-)

A brick curb is better than a lumber one.