Curbless shower/wet room in basement bathroom with ejector pump?
Michael Lamb
4 years ago
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_sophiewheeler
4 years agoMichael Lamb
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Basement bathroom stubbed out. Now what?
Comments (4)I forgot to mention that yes, the sewage line exits the house just below the first floor level, so the basement is all downhill. Whether or not I needed a sewage pump wasn't in question, my main questions were about the stubbed out PVC pipes and what my choices are for them. I'll post pictures tonight or tomorrow. I looked again last night and the circle under the stairs has a pipe coming out of it, so it's likely a lid to a sump I think. And I doubt the builders went ahead and installed a sewage ejector pump in there. One of the PVC stubs has a little black pan around it in the floor, and another one has a smaller pipe coming up next to it. There's also a PVC pipe coming up through the stud wall, and I'm thinking this is probably a vent line? Like I said, I'll post pictures soon, but anyone that can help identify the pipes, or what is likely under the lid of the sump, please share. I'm very curious where all the PVC pipes under the concrete floor go. Thanks!...See MoreHow to do curbless roll-in shower - new construction?
Comments (5)With a slab pour, the easiest thing is to have the trench drain be on the far side of the shower from the entry and then work the wet concrete to be your preslope. I'd want enough rebar and fiber reinforcement in that concrete to avoid any future cracking of the slab. Then just use a topically applied membrane like Redguard and tile over it. Insulating UNDER and around the slab will be critical to the success of this with your home. A concrete slab has six sides, and all of them will lose heat to the surrounding ground or air if given the chance. Then you are paying to heat the outdoors, not your house, and it becomes a money suck to do that. Be SURE that your contractor actually understands that and plans the insulation accordingly....See Morebasement plumbing / sewage ejector
Comments (11)Your in luck, The Michigan Plumbing Code is based upon the 2006 International Plumbing Code (IPC), which is a lot more liberal on venting than is the UPC. Given that your original fixture layout was done during the build and obviously inspected, we shall assume that the venting is okay in that area. For your proposed bar sink you will by necessity have a vertical riser in the wall behind the sink which will run from the drain line up to the sink fixture arm. From the base of that riser you can run a line to the 3" from the bathroom area and tie it into the 3" before it enters the sewage ejector vessel. The tie in to the 3" must be made by means of a Wye fitting. You could either get a 3x3x1-1/2" wye, which is a 3" wye with an 1-1/2" side inlet or you could use a common 3" wye and install a reducer bushing on the side inlet to accept the 1-1/2" drain line. If the total length of the 1-1/2" line from the base of the riser to the inlet on the 3" is 6' or less you will not need any additional venting. (It will wet vent from the 3" main line.) NOTE: The code prescribed trap and drain for your bar sink is 1-1/2" however code will allow us to increase a line by one nominal trade size, therefore if the length described above is greater than 6' you could increase the line to 2" and would be allowed 8'. Out of curiosity, are you absolutely sure of the line layouts in your drawing or is that your best guess based upon the fixture layout? If it is a guess, i have prepared a drawing which is more likely the correct layout and i could post it for you....See MoreOkay, here is the bathroom plan!
Comments (31)ML, I have had no experience whatsoever with subways. I read about them being traditional, but have never seen them in anything but a modern setting in person, unless they were in an actual subway. That may be because I have only ever been in 1950s and newer houses with tile! To me they feel modern and very "in" and overused. I figured they have to go "out" sooner or later! However, I do respect your opinion. I thank you for your insight. I had not thought of whether the 6x6 effect looked MCM or not. The sink definitely has a pre-MCM vibe, as do the med cabinets. I suppose the lights do, too. And the dresser is definitely older. So square tiles came along in the MCM era, huh? Bummer. I avoided 4x4 tiles because that is what my 1978 home already has, I thought that by going bigger, I would avoid the era. Phooey. So I need to do subways to be in a 1940s and earlier vibe? Okay. Is the 4 x 6 you suggested more period than the 3 x 6 that are so easy to find everywhere now? BTW, as time passes, I am more and more inclined to go with the Carrara-looking trim, rather than the black. Then there is a part of me that says that I like color too much and that it is just hanging out on-line that has gotten me loving the Carrara look (because it is so loved on the kitchen forum and bath forum). I also am drooling over a mother-of-pearl tile to use as a listello between two rows of Carrara. Then again, if a beauteous tile becomes available for a great price on Craigslist, all bets are off on color! I am considering heating the floor. It will also help it to dry if it gets wet splash-over from the shower. Things like Carrara-looking tile and heated floors became more of an option when my SSDI came through. The Swanstone ADA floor with the trench drain is so new that I have not found a picture of a real consumer using it. The link below will take you to a PDF that shows the new shower floor and wall system. The shower floor is on the cover, but it does not show the whole shower. I will be getting the New Construction floor because we have to pull up the subfloor due to rot. I will get the 96" walls seen on the right on page 8/9, but in the color "Ice" or "Glacier". "Ice" is shown below, it is the closest they have to Carrara. "Glacier" is just white, but the surface looks like snowflakes, sort of. The shower looks way too skinny, but I keep telling myself that the shower looks skinny because of the drain taking some of the floorspace. It will be the same size as the bathtub, without the bathtub sides getting in the way of my feet. I keep saying that, but it sure looks skinny! That is why the floor outside the shower will be as water-proof as a shower would be. Here is a link that might be useful: Swan Shower PDF see Page 8/9...See MoreMichael Lamb
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMichael Lamb
4 years ago_sophiewheeler
4 years agoSummit Studio Architects
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Michael LambOriginal Author